The Ardennes Overview

In 1944, one of the bloodiest battles of World War II, the Battle of the Bulge, took place in these hills. Now quiet towns, imposing castles, and stunning scenery make the Ardennes an ideal tourist attraction. Carry raingear; the humidity here often breaks into short storms. Regardless, this area is ideal for anyone; for those looking to explore the great outdoors or to relax in a quiet town with cozy accommodations. Check transportations schedules thoroughly but you still may have to budget for extra waiting time.

Ettelbrück. The main railway linking Luxembourg City to Liège, BEL, runs through Ettelbrück (pop. 7500), making the town the transportation hub for the Ardennes. History buffs waiting out a layover might investigate the General Patton Memorial Museum, 5 r. Dr. Klein, which commemorates Luxembourg’s liberation during WWII. Take a right from the station, a left on r. de la Gare, a left on ave. J.F. Kennedy, and a right on r. Dr. Klein. (☎81 03 22; www.patton.lu. Open daily June-Sept. 15 10am-5pm; Sept. 16-May 30 Su 2-5pm. €2.50.) Near the train station is Hotel Herckmans , 3 pl. de la Résistance, a small hotel above Stone’s Steakhouse with the most budget-friendly option in town. (☎81 74 28. Breakfast included. Singles €35-40; doubles €45-60; triples €80. AmEx/MC/V.) From the train station, turn left on Prince Henry, turn right when the road ends, and then take the first left onto the pedestrian-only Grande Rue, where much of commercial Ettelbrück is located. Grab a quick meal at Bakes , 55 Grande Rue. (☎81 13 33. Sandwiches €3-4.50. Pastas €9. Open daily 7am-5:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.) Trains go to Clervaux (30min., 1 per hr., €5) and Luxembourg City (25min., 3 per hr., €4.50.) The station at Ettelbrück (open 5:50am-8:30pm) is the hub for buses throughout the Ardennes. Buy the Oeko-Billjee (€5) day pass for unlimited bus and train use for one day; validate the pass yourself at the orange booth on the platform. To reach the tourist office, walk to the end of Grande Rue and turn right onto r. de Bastogne. (☎81 20 68; www.sit-e.lu. Open M-F 9am-noon and 1:30-5pm; July-Sept. Sa 10am-noon and 2-4pm.)

Echternach. In the heart of the Little Switzerland region, Echternach (pop. 5200), the oldest town in Luxembourg, is also a charming tourist village and a paradise for the hikers and bikers who venture out into the surrounding woodlands. The turrets of the 15th-century town hall share the skyline with the towering Basilica of St. Willibrord, less interesting inside than out. To get there, go down r. de la Gare and take a left at pl. du Marché. (Open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Free.) St. Willibrord draws thousands of pilgrims every Whit Tuesday (Pentecost) for the Dancing Procession. The basilica and the intimate Église Saints Pierre-et-Paul host Echternach’s renowned International Music Festival from May to July. (☎72 83 47; www.echternachfestival.lu. Tickets free to €47.) The remains of a Roman villa, 47a r. des Romains, can be found near the lake, a 25min. walk from the station; take r. de la Gare and make a right from pl. du Marché onto rte. de Luxembourg, then turn left on r. C.M. Spoo, which becomes r. des Romains, and follow the signs. The museum and open-air exhibit beneath the ruins cast light on the area’s 2000-year history. (☎26 72 09 74; www.villa-echternach.lu. Open Tu-Sa from the Su before Easter-June 30 11am-1pm and 2-5pm; July-Aug. 11am-6pm; Oct.-Nov. 1 11am-1pm and 2-5pm. €3, seniors €1.50)

The lakeside   Auberge de Jeunesse (HI) , 1 chemin vert Roudenhaff, a 30min. walk from the station, is equipped with a sports hall and an indoor 14m climbing wall. Walk past the Roman villa to get there. (☎72 01 58; www.youthhostels.lu. Wheelchair-accessible. Breakfast and linens included. Reception 8-10am and 5-11pm. Check-in 5-10pm. Bike rental €2.50 per hr., €8 per half-day, €16 per day. Reserve ahead in summer. Dorms €21.20; singles €33; doubles €26. €3 HI discount. MC/V.) Camping Officiel , 5 rte. de Diekirch, is a 5min. walk from the bus station. (☎72 02 72; www.camping-echternach.lu. Laundry €2.50. Bring your own toilet paper. Open Apr.-Oct. 9am-7pm. Tent sites €5, extra person €5. Electricity €2.50. AmEx/MC/V.) For an inexpensive option for food, pick up groceries at Match, near pl. du Marché. (Open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 8am-1pm.)

Buses run to Ettelbrück (#500; 45min., 1 per hr.) and Luxembourg City (#111 or 110; 1hr., 2 per hr.) Rent sturdy bikes at Trisport, 31 rte. de Luxembourg. (☎72 00 86; www.trisport.lu. €15 per day. Open Tu-Th 9am-noon and 2-6pm, F 9am-noon and 2-7pm, Sa 9am-noon and 2-5pm. AmEx/MC/V.) The tourist office, 9-10 parvis de la Basilique, is in front of the Basilica. (☎72 02 30; www.echternach-tourist.lu. Open M-F 9:30am-5:30pm. High season also open Sa-Su.)

Vianden. The village of Vianden (pop. 2000) is home to one of the most impressive castles in Western Europe. A patchwork of Carolingian, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture, the   Château de Vianden holds displays of armor, furniture, and tapestries. Captions are mainly in German, but the main attraction is the view from the top of the hill, where you can look down at the castle towers and countryside. (☎84 92 91; www.castle-vianden.lu. Open daily Apr.-Sept. 10am-6pm; Oct. and Mar. 10am-5pm; Nov.-Feb. 10am-4pm. €5.50, students €4.50.) In August, the castle also hosts a medieval festival, where the Markt transforms into a scene from the 14th century with games, music, and entertainment. (Admission €7, students €6. Check castle website for more details.) The Maison Victor Hugo, 37 r. de la Gare, housed the author during his exile from France. (☎26 87 40 88; www.victor-hugo.lu. Open Tu-Su 11am-3:30pm. €4, ages 6-12 €2.50, ages 13-25 €3.50; reduced raters for large groups.) Take the Chairlift from 3 r. du Sanatorium up the mountain for thrilling views. (☎83 43 23. Open Easter-Oct. M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 10am-6pm. €3, round-trip €4.50.) Vianden has hiking trails, and bike paths lead to Diekirch (22km) and Echternach (30km). Rent bikes at the bus station. (Open mid-July to Aug. M-Sa 8am-noon and 1-5pm. €10 per half-day, €14 per day.) Modern, clean rooms await at the   Auberge de Jeunesse (HI) , 3 ru. du Château, near the foot of the castle. To get there, climb Grande Rue up the hill and toward the castle. The road changes to Montée du Château; the hostel is behind Hotel Oranienburg. (☎83 41 77; www.youthhostels.lu. Breakfast included. Reception 8-10am and 5-11pm. €3 HI discount. Dorms €19.20; singles €31.) Hotel Petry’s Restaurant , 15 r. de la Gare, serves filling dishes in a cozy atmosphere. (☎83 41 22. Meat entrees €6-19. Open May-Aug. daily 8am-9:30pm.) Buses head to Ettelbrück (#570; 30min., 2 per hr.) and Clervaux (#663; 45min., M-Sa 4 per day, Su 2 per day). From Luxembourg, take the train to Ettelbruck and the bus to Vianden. From the bus station, take r. de la Gare to the center of town; the tourist office, 1 r. du Vieux Marché, is over the bridge on the right. (☎83 42 571; www.tourist-info-vianden.lu. Internet €2 per hr. Open M-F 8am-noon and 1-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-2pm.)

Esch-Sur-Sûre. Cradled by the green Ardennes mountains and encircled by the ruins of Luxembourg’s oldest castle, this village (pop. 320) is an ideal base for exploring the Haute-Sûre Nature Reserve , 15 rte. de Lultzhausen (☎89 93 311), or the area’s 700km of nature trails. (Reserve open Mar.-Oct. M-Tu and Th-F 10am-noon and 2-6pm, Sa-Su 2-6pm; Nov.-Apr. closes 5pm.) Hotel de la Sûre , 1 r. du Pont, the village’s unofficial tourist office, is the best bet for finding information on the area’s lodgings. From the bus stop, walk up r. de l’Église (the street on the right closest to the tunnel) past the church. (☎83 91 10; www.hotel-de-la-sure.lu. Bike rental €5 per hr., €19-22 per day. Breakfast included. Free Internet. Reception 7am-midnight. Singles M-Th €27-70, F-Su €30-77. Discounts for longer stays. AmEx/MC/V.) Camping im Aal , r. du Moulin, a 10min. walk from the bus drop-off point, is next to the Sûre river. To get there, cross the bridge and turn right past the playgrounds. (☎83 95 14; www.esch-sure.lu. Wash €3.50, dry €2.50. Open Feb.-Dec. Reception 8am-noon and 1-5pm. Tent sites €5 per person. Cash only.) Buses to Ettelbrück leave every hour, except on Sundays when they leave every two to four hours (#535; 25min.).