The East Coast  Overview

The picturesque east coast is short on beaches but big on scenic beauty. Colonnades of rubber trees alternate with rambutan orchards. Several waterfalls are accessible by trails that begin along the road.This opportunity to catch a glimpse of the island’s rugged interior shouldn’t be missed. The tiny town of Dan Mai hides a path to Khlong Nonsi Falls, a quick 30min. walk inland. Further along the stretch of highway is the turnoff to Than Mayom Falls. Here, clear mountain water gushes over a 7m-high rock into a gorgeous jungle pool. (Accessible in rainy season June-Dec. daily 8am-4:30pm. 200฿, students 100฿; admission covers both waterfalls for a single day.)

Continuing straight at the fork in the road (right branch) leads to the village of Sa Lek Phet, a decidedly untouristed town that surrounds a picturesque bay. Two nice waterfalls, Khlong Nung and Khiri Phet, are a short walk from the road. Continuing further south on the eastern side of the bay, on the west coast of the island’s southeast peninsula, leads to the secluded, beautiful, and swimmable Long Beach. This is arguably the most remote place to stay on the entire island, home only to the Treehouse Long Beach , with no electricity and simple and clean bungalows. To get there, take a boat from Laem Ngop Pier bound for Koh Wai and get off at Tan Ta Wan Pier, or start at the original Lonely Beach Treehouse and jump on the daily transfer truck to Long Beach (10am, 100฿). Alternatively, take a taxi (100฿ per person, 1000฿ per vehicle) to Long Beach directly from the pier (see Ferries, ).

Getting to the rest of the east coast can be tricky. There are no motorbike rentals north or east of Hat Sai Khao, which means that if you plan to take a motorbike you’ll be traversing a steep and curvy stretch of road. Try to find a shared taxi from the pier (100฿) heading that way for a safer trip.

Forty-seven other islands in addition to Ko Chang make up the Ko Chang National Marine Park. Thirteen have accommodations, some of which cater only to package tourists, and camping is free and legal anywhere, although it’s best to check with the locals before unpacking. In the high season, many of these islands are easy to get to and have cheap lodgings; in the low season, most close up shop. Food from island guesthouses is generally overpriced, so stock up on snacks before you leave the mainland.

The Outer Islands

Island-hopper boats depart from Bang Bao daily at 9am and noon during the high season and sporadically throughout the rest of the year. They shuttle passengers around the archipelago (arrive in Ko Wai 10am, Ko Kam 10:45am, and Ko Maak 11am). Boats depart from Ko Maak at noon (arrive in Ko Kam 12:20pm, Ko Wai 1pm, and Bang Bao 2pm).

The islands off Ko Chang’s southern coast are famous for fishing, coral, rock formations, bird nests, and bat guano. You can scuba dive at Ko Kam, home to an abundance of coral, fish, and toothy sharks. Ko Wai is surrounded by coral, and is known for its legendary fishing. Crescent-shaped, pure-white beaches make for a picture-perfect daytrip.

Ko Maak

A regular slow boat leaves Laem Ngop pier (3hr., daily 3pm, 300฿ one way) and arrives before sunset. There is also a speedboat that leaves from Laem Ngop pier (1hr.; 11am, 4pm; 450฿ one way). In the high season, boats also depart from Bang Bao (daily 8am and noon) for Ko Maak (returns noon) 350฿ each way. In the high season there’s also speedboat service departing from Laem Sok pier, east of Trat (40min., daily 1pm, 400฿).

The most accessible of the outer islands, Ko Maak is quickly following the development pattern of Ko Chang. Rapidly upgraded resorts cater more to Thai package tourists than to budget travelers. The beaches, however, are still immaculate, and there are a few smaller outfits that put up backpackers. There is a clinic and a police box on the road heading into the island from the pier. Expensive bottled water, toilet paper, and other simple amenities are available at the minimart, which also rents bikes and motorbikes. There is no official taxi service, so on arrival, but hotels and guesthouses usually send one to meet boats free of charge. For the latest on accommodations on Ko Maak, inquire at Tratosphere Books (☎039 523 200; see Practical Information) in Trat. Serge, the owner, is a French expat who knows his these outer islands well.

On the southern side of the island is Au Kao Resort . (☎039 501 001. Bungalows 120฿, with fan and private bath 300฿.) The north side ends in a beach with unobtrusive bungalows and calm, coral-strewn waters, bordering a long bay. Beachfront bungalows with private baths, beach chairs, and fans go for 250฿. Up the beach, Koh Maak Resort offers high-quality bungalows starting at 1000฿ and increasing the closer they are to the beach. (☎039 599 296.)

Ko Kood

A slow boat leaves from Daan Kaw Pier, east of Trat (☎861 267 860; 5hr.; T, W, F, Su 10am; 250฿). There is also a speedboat from Daan Kaw (1½hr., daily 8:30am, 400฿ one-way, and 9:00am, 550฿). In the high season, boats leave Bang Bao on Ko Chang (☎818 650 610; 600฿ one-way). Speedboats also leave from Laem Ngop pier (2hr.; T, F, Sa 9am; 500฿) for Nam Leuk pier on Ko Kood.

Life on Ko Kood is slow, although commercial development and tourism are surging at an alarming rate. There is currently no public transportation, but some hotels will rent out motorbikes. Taking a jungle tour to see Khlong Chao Waterfall is a good way to spend a few hours. Better yet, away from the jungle hills lie some of the most pristine beaches in Thailand. Coral reefs just beneath the surface make for world-class snorkeling and diving. The island has a small clinic (☎039 521 852) and police station on its western side. Accommodations in the low season can be difficult to find. Tratosphere Bookshop in Trat can offer up-to-date information along with photos of various spots. A good option for backpackers is Ban Pai Ko Kut . Simple rooms with shared bath 250฿, with separate bath 450฿. Pricier options are easy to find.