Barcelona Barri Gòtic And Las Ramblas

When night falls, the distinction between upper and lower Barri Gòtic becomes much clearer. The area above C. Ferran, dominated by shops, restaurants, and hostels, virtually shuts down by midnight, while Carrer Ferran and below becomes a human river of tourists and locals weaving their way from bar to bar. There are a few clubs and several hybrid bar-clubs in and around Plaça Reial, but overall the Barri Gòtic is more of a place for drinking and hanging out than for wild and crazy dance parties like the ones in Maremagnum or Montjuïc.

While Barri Gòtic has some nightlife, it is a favorite tourist spot and as such attracts drug dealers, pickpockets, and prostitutes. Prostitutes tend to stick to Las Ramblas or other major streets (C. Ferran, C. Avinyó) and it’s best not to let them get a hold of your arm or clothing as they may soon try reaching for your pockets. Drug dealers tend to stick to sidestreets and alleys which come just off the main streets and plaças (i.e. Pl. Reial, Pl. Trippy, C. Avinyó) but generally leave passersby alone once they make it clear they’re not interested. With its ancient, randomly arranged streets, Barri Gòtic is an easy place to get lost in. Get an idea of where you’re going before you head down a street; you don’t want to end up alone in the middle of one of the many narrow, empty sidestreets. When in doubt, you can always go back to Las Ramblas and work your way up and down the neighborhood from there. At night, the main drag is certainly host to its fair share of unsavory characters trying to sell beer, sex, and drugs, but it does offer light and the protection of crowds. Overall, the area is well-policed and whispers of “hashish” are probably the only indications of lawlessness that you’ll encounter.

Just a short ways into the maze of Barri Gòtic is the infamous Plaça “Trippy.” Located at the end of C. Escudellers from Las Ramblas, this square, officially named Plaça George Orwell, has long garnered a reputation for attracting an alternative crowd and the trade of illicit substances. It is rumored that the government removed all of the benches here to discourage loitering and drug dealing; how successful they were is debatable. More recently, a 24hr. closed-circuit surveillance camera has been installed in the square, in a superbly ironic gesture (given the plaça’s original name) meant to further curtail drug sales. Nowadays the trippiness of yore is gone, but you’re sure to find a ready supply of smiley, rattily-clothed guitar players as well as some less smiley drug-dealers around the corner.

It Takes Two. Of course traveling in groups at night is always a good idea, but it can be especially helpful in Barri Gotìc. Even a single companion, especially of the opposite sex, can work wonders in decreasing the amount of attention you receive from unsavory characters. Women accompanied by men are sure to receive fewer catcalls by drunken tourists and locals, and men with a female companion will be spared a great deal of harassment by prostitutes.

El Bosq de les Fades, Pg. de la Banca, 16 (☎933 17 26 49), near the Wax Museum. Drassanes. This spooky cafe-bar used to be the horror section of the Wax Museum and retains a fairytale look, with gnarled trees, gourd-lanterns, and a wishing well. Fills up early, so it’s a good place to start the night. Beer €3. Cava €3. Tequila Sunrise €7.20. Open M-Th and Su 10am-1am, F-Sa 10am-2am. MC/V.
Barcelona Pipa Club, Pl. Reial, 3 (☎933 02 47 32; www.bpipaclub.com). Liceu, L3. Unmarked—look for the small plaque on the door to the left of Glaciar Bar, on your left as you enter the square from Las Ramblas, and ring the doorbell. Don’t let the pseudo-secrecy deter you. A welcoming place for late-night drinks. The decor is 100% Sherlock Holmes, the music mostly jazz and fusion, and the people are a mix of local bartenders, artists, and tourists in the know. An impressive collection of pipes from around the world is housed in a side-room along with a small pool table (€1.50 a game). Live music (often jazz) F 11pm. Mixed drinks €7, beer €4. Open daily 11pm-4:30am. Cash only.
Shangó, C. d’En Groch, 2 (☎662 10 51 65). Jaume I. Walk down Via Laietana and take a right on C. d’Àngel Baixeras. Continue as it turns into C. Gignàs and take a right on the small C. d’en Groch. This colorful bar blasts Latin beats and attracts young locals with its delicious mojitos (€6). Free salsa classes Tu and W at 11pm. Beer from €2.20. Happy hour 9-11pm. Open daily 9pm-3am. Cash only.
Smoll Bar, C. Comtesa de Sobradiel, 9. Liceu, L3. Between Pl. Reial and Via Laietana. As promised, this chic, neon-lit bar is quite small, and fills up quickly and reliably. Be prepared to get cozy with a young, mostly gay crowd. Beer €3.50. Mixed drinks €6-7. Open M-Th 9:30pm-2:30am, F-Sa 9:30pm-3am. Cash only.
Sincopa, C. Avinyò, 35. Liceu, L3. Coming from Las Ramblas, take a right off C. Ferran. Bright, instrument-laden walls enclose a lively young crowd. Always blasting music, mostly Latin. When the upside-down musicians on the ceiling orient themselves you know you’ve had too much to drink. Wine €3. Mixed drinks €7. Open daily 6pm-3am. Cash only.
13 Bar, C. Lleona, 13. Liceu, L3. Coming from Las Ramblas, take a right off C. Ferran onto Avinyó and a left onto C. Lleona. At the end of this inconspicuous sidestreet lies a bar with a dark sense of humor and a crowd of locals. Presents a perfect mix of devilish music and fruity drinks. Beer €2.50. Wine €2.50. Mixed drinks €5. Happy hour 10:30-11pm. 2 for 1 drinks Su. Open M-Th and Su 8pm-2am, F-Sa 8pm-3am. Cash only.
La Ria, C. Milans, 4 (☎933 10 00 92). Liceu, L3. Coming from Las Ramblas, take a right off C. Ferran onto C. Avinyó and follow it until you see C. Milans on your left. Crowds pack into this tapas bar for the small array of cheap and tasty montaditos (€1.20) and beer (€2). Wine €3. Open M-Th noon-4pm and 6pm-1:30am, F-Sa noon-4pm and 6pm-3am. Cash only.
Andú, C. Correu Vell, 13 (☎646 55 39 30). Sant Jaume I, L3. Coming from Pl. Sant Jaume, take a left off C. de la Ciutat. Stay on Avinyó. This cozy wine bar sports a well-executed antique look and attracts a young, sophisticated crowd. Good for an early glass of wine (€2.50-5) or a late bite to eat. Bottles €9-15. Sangria €5-15. Tapas €2.50-5. Meat and cheese platters €15. Open daily 8pm-3am. Kitchen closes at midnight. MC/V.
Oviso, C. Arai, 5 (}www.barnawood.com). Liceu, L3. A youthful and colorful crowd to match the bright wall murals, befitting a bar right in the middle of Plaça Trippy. Serves food and fresh fruit juices during the day. Beer €2. Mixed drinks €6-7. Open M-Th and Su 10am-2:30am, F-Sa and holidays 10am-3am. Cash only.
Margarita Blue, C. J. A. Clavé, 6 (☎934 12 54 89). Drassanes, L3. Walk past the wax museum and take a left. It’s off Las Ramblas, about 1 block from the port. This Mexican-themed bar draws a 20- and 30-something crowd with small blue margaritas, tropically painted walls, and a strangely arranged wall of mirrors behind the bar. Small Mexican dishes (€3.50-8) accompany the tequila. A wider array of mixed drinks (€7) than most. Open M-Th and Su 7pm-2:30am, F-Sa 7pm-3am. Kitchen closes at 1am.
Schilling, C. Ferran, 23 (☎933 17 67 87; www.cafeschilling.com). Liceu, L3. One of the more laid-back and spacious wine bars in the area, with dim lighting, velvet seat cushions, and bottles climbing the walls. Crowd gets younger as the night goes on. Excellent sangria (pitcher €18). Wine €3. Mixed drinks €8. Serves breakfast and sandwiches (€4-6) during the day. Open daily M-W 10am-2:30am. MC/V over €10.
Las Cuevas del Sorte, C. Gignàs, 2 (☎932 95 40 1). Liceu, L3. Coming from Las Ramblas, take a right off C. Ferran, turn left on C. Avinyó, and left again on Gignàs. Soft lighting and walls that resemble rock formations upstairs, an actual cave with mosaic pillars illuminated by a disco-ball downstairs. DJ from 11pm on likes to start off the night with 60s ballads and old-school soul. Beer €3. Sex on the Beach €4.50. Mixed drinks €6-8. Happy hour 7-10pm. Open M, W-Th, and Su 7pm-2:30am, F-Sa 7pm-3am. Cash only.
Santamónica, Pl. Reial, 11-12 (☎933 01 13 64). Liceu, L3. Dim, red-tinted light and zebra-patterned cushions make this one of the snazzier places around to lounge in and enjoy a drink. Beer €4. Mixed drinks €6-7. Open daily 5pm-3am. MC/V.
Blondie, C. D’en Roca, 14 (www.blondie-bcn.com). Liceu, L3. Go up C. Casañas and make a left on C. d’en Roca. Punk-themed bar devoted primarily to its namesake. Try one of the punk-rock drinks, the specialty being, of course, the Blondie (vodka, campari, peach juice, and cava; €8). Beer €2.50. Open M-Th and Su 8pm-2am, Fr-Sa 10pm-3am. MC/V.
Glaciar Bar, Pl. Reial, 3 (☎933 02 11 63; www.glaciarbarcelona.com). Liceu, L3. In the near left corner coming from Las Ramblas. Glaciar has a rather small but nicely decorated interior; most people sit outside in the Pl. Reial. A chill place to hang out with a beer and look out upon an otherwise hectic square. Start your night off with tapas (€2-6) or bocadillos (€3-6). Beer €2.50. ½L of sangria €7. Open M-Th and Su 11am-2:30am, F-Sa 11am-2:30am. Cash only.
Casa El Agüelo, C. Avinyó, 37 (☎933 10 23 25). Liceu, L3. Take a right off C. Ferran, coming from Las Ramblas. A cozy tavern whose decor is somewhere between medieval Catalunya and the American West. Brick walls, fireplaces, long wooden tables, and a cavernous, dungeon-like basement. A good place for cheap beer with a big group of friends. Beer €2.80. Mixed drinks €7. Open M-W and Su 7pm-1:30am, Th 7pm-2:30am, F-Sa 7pm-3am. Cash only.

Clubs

Karma, Pl. Reial, 10 (☎933 02 56 80; www.karmadisco.com). Liceu. The club downstairs may look like a colorfully lit wind tunnel, but it hosts a lively and fun atmosphere. DJ will not hesitate to play classic pop-rock throwbacks for all to sing along to. Beer €4. Mixed drinks €6-8. Club cover €10 includes 1 drink. Bar open Tu-Su 6pm-2:30am. Club open Tu-Su midnight-5am.
Harlem Jazz Club, C. Comtesa de Sobradiel, 8 (☎933 10 07 55). Liceu, L3. Between Pl. Reial and Via Laietana. Live music varies: blues, jazz, reggae, flamenco, and acoustic rock attract international musicians from as far away as Senegal, Kenya, Brazil, and Cuba. After the live music is over, plenty will stay and more will trickle in to dance late into the night. 2 sessions per night: Tu-Th and Su 10:30pm and midnight, F-Sa 11:30pm and 1am. The 2nd session is always much more crowded, especially on weekends. Beer €3.50. Admission €4-8, usually includes 1 drink. Cover F-Sa €7.50. Open Tu-Th 9pm-3am, F-Sa 9pm-5am, Su 9pm-5am during the summer. Get a schedule for the month at the front door. Cash only.
Jamboree, Pl. Reial, 17 (☎933 19 17 89; www.masimas.com). Liceu. A disorienting maze of stone arches and swirling lights thumps with hip hop; 2nd floor plays 80s and 90s pop. Dance floors fill up between 2-3am. Earlier in the night this popular venue hosts live jazz. Beer €5. Mixed drinks €9-10. Jazz 9 and 11pm €4-12. Cover €10; look for flyers with discounts. Difficult to get in on nights with lists. Open daily 9pm-1am; nightclub open M-Th and Su 12:30am-5am, F-Sa 12:30am-6am. Upstairs, Tarantos hosts flamenco shows (€6). Open daily 8-11pm.
New York, C. Escudellers, 5 (☎933 18 87 30). Drassanes, L3. Right off Las Ramblas. Once a strip joint, New York is now the biggest club in the Barri Gòtic; drink tables overlook the red and black, strobe-lit dance floor for your voyeuristic pleasure. Crowds don’t arrive until after 3am; music includes reggae and Brit-pop. Cover 11:30pm-2am €6 includes 1 beer; 2-5am €13 includes 1 drink. Open Th-Sa midnight-5am. Cash only.
Soul Club, C. Nou de Sant Francesc, 7 (☎933 02 70 26; www.soulclub.es). Drassanes, L3. Take the 2nd right off C. Escudellers; it’s on your left about 100 ft. down. The softly curved walls house a room of young jazz, funk, and soul aficionados. Dance floor is relatively small, but the expertly chosen tunes are sure to get people on their feet. Beer €3.50. Mixed drinks €7.50. Cover F-Sa €5 includes 1 cheap drink. Open M-Th and Su 11pm-2:30am, F-Sa 11pm-3am. Cash only.
Boulevard Culture Club, Las Ramblas, 27 (☎933 016289). Liceu, L3. Large, hi-tech club with bright pixellated lights raining upon the dance floor. Pumps electronica for a young, mostly tourist, crowd. Guys free until 1:30am, girls until 2:30am. Cover €13, with flyer €10. Beer €6. Mixed drinks €9-10. Open M-Th midnight-5am, F-Sa midnight-6am.