Barcelona El Raval

If you stick to the Northern part of El Raval, you’ll find yourself in hip, creatively decorated, colorful (literally) bars with a young, laid-back crowd—true to the artsy nature of the area. Be sure to check out Calle Joaquim Costa, near the MACBA, which packs in numerous distinctive and happening venues in just a few short blocks. As you move away from the University and MACBA, bars become more functional than artsy and cater more to tourists than to locals. Be aware that around Las Ramblas there are many wily pickpockets, around Las Ramblas del Raval prostitutes linger on the street corners, and in the depths of El Raval the streets can be eerily deserted late at night.

Marsella Bar, C. de Sant Pau, 65. Liceu. Don’t be deterred by the tarnished mirrors and blackened bottles—they add to the cowboy charm of this oldest of Barcelona’s bars (built in 1820). Religious figurines grace the walls of the bar, famous among locals for its absenta (absinthe; €5). Beer €3.20. Mixed drinks €5-6. Open M-Th 11pm-2am, F and Sa 11pm-3am. Cash only.
Betty Ford, Joaquin Costa, 56 (☎933 04 13 68). This local favorite is the place to see and be seen—amid chic and simple decor and raucous conversation. Happy hour 6-9pm offers fancy mixed drinks for €4; try a Manhattan or sugar-sweet mojito. Beer €2.50-4. Open M and Su 6pm-1:30am, Tu-Th 2pm-1:30am, F-Sa 2pm-2am.
Bar Almirall, C. Joaquín Costa, 33 (☎933 18 99 17, casalmirall@telefonica.net). Universitat. Marble floors and countertops, black chairs, dim lamps, and laid-back clientele. It’s house policy to stop you after your 3rd absinthe (€5-7), but the staff is fond of saying that you won’t make it there anyway. Beer €2-4. Mixed drinks €6-7. Free Wi-Fi. Open M-Th 5pm-2:30am, Sa until 3am, Su 7pm. Cash only.
Bar Ra, Pl. de la Garduña (☎933 01 41 63, reservations 61 595 98 72; www.ratown.com). Liceu, L3, just behind Las Ramblas’s Boqueria market. Everything about Ra exudes cool, from its erotic Hindu mural to the individually painted tablecloths to the waiters themselves. Artfully prepared international food offerings use fresh ingredients from the nearby Boqueria market. Try the excellent vegetarian lasagna (€7.50) and duck magret with mango sauce (€9.50), or come for Sunday brunch in the sun. Entrees €6.50-13. Beer €2.50. Mixed drinks €6.50. Open M-Th 9am-midnight, F-Sa 9am-2:30am, Su noon-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
L’Ovella Negra, C. Sitges, 5 (☎933 17 10 87; www.ovellanegra.com). Catalunya, L1/3. From Pl. de Catalunya, go down Las Ramblas and take the 1st right onto C. Tallers; C. Sitges is the 1st left. Young English-speaking tourists and some university students saddle up at a tavern that feels like a medieval stable. Cheap beer and sangria (huge pitcher of either €7.30) and Foosball tables. Lunch menu €6.10. Open M-Th 9am-2:30am, F 9am-3am, Sa 5pm-3am, Su 5pm-2:30am. Cash Only.
Sant Pau 68, C. de Sant Pau, 68 (☎934 41 31 15). Liceu. Floral wallpaper contrasts with painted black silhouettes and hanging bottle lights, perfectly mixing smooth and gritty. Beer €2. Mixed drinks €6. Open M-Th and Su 8pm-2:30am, F-Sa 8pm-3:30am. MC/V.
London Bar, C. Nou de la Rambla, 34 (☎933 01 25 40; www.londonbarbcn.com), off Las Ramblas. Liceu, L3. Locals and unruly expats rub shoulders at this smoky and always crowded Modernista tavern, which celebrated its 100th birthday on Día de Sant Joan (June 23) 2009. Beer €3. Wine €3. Mixed drinks €6.50-9. Absinthe €5. Open Tu-Th and Su 7:30pm-4:30am, F-Sa 7:30pm-5am. AmEx/MC/V.
Rita Blue, Placa Sant Agusti, 6 (☎933 42 40 86; www.ritablue.com), on C. Hospital off Las Ramblas. Liceu, L3. Sister to Rita Rouge. Live house music plays downstairs W-Su 11pm. DJs, poetry slams, other performances. Beer €2.20; mixed drinks €5.40-8. Call for dinner reservations. Open M-Th and Su 6pm-2am, F-Sa 6pm-3am.
Rambla Raval 10, Rambla del Raval, 10. Liceu or Paral.lel. Walk down C. Sant Pau until you reach the Rambla del Raval. When you walk into this bar, which is likely to be dark, packed with youth, and playing loud music, look up at the chandelier; it’s made entirely of mini bottles of alcohol. Order a piel de iguana (iguana skin; 2 for €9) and lose yourself in the upbeat atmosphere. Mixed drinks €4.50-8. Open M-Th 8pm-2am, F-Sa 8pm-3am. Cash only.
La Masia, C. Elisabets, 16 (☎933 02 24 30). Liceu. Walk up Las Ramblas and make a left onto C. Elisabets. This bar, which maintains a charming traditional Spanish simplicity, has booze, cheap tapas (almonds €1.50; other dishes €1.50-8), and a great location right on the seam of the MACBA and El Raval districts. Happily chatting students fill the tables on weekend nights. Beer €2-3. Mixed drinks €5-6. Open M-Th 10am-2am, F-Sa 10pm-3am, Su 10pm-2am. MC/V.
Xhiwat Buen Cafe, C. Ramalleres, 26 (☎933 01 04 63). Catalunya. Walk down C. Pelai and make a left on C. de Jovellanos. This unpretentious and intimate shawarma, tea, and hookah restaurant has low tables, floor mats, and a friendly owner who will make you feel right at home. Menù includes bread, hummus, falafel salad, and shawarma (€8). Beer €2. Open M-Sa 1pm-2am. Cash only.
Manchester, C. Valldonzella, 40 (☎663 07 17 48; www.manchesterbar.com). Universitat. Walk down the Ronda de Sant Antoni and make a left onto C. Joaquin Costa. Then make another left onto C. Valldonzella. This red-lit bar has old cassette tapes on the walls, ugly-chic artwork, and live music some nights. Check their Myspace for performance calendar. Mixed drinks €5-7. Open M-Th 7pm-2:30am, F-Sa 7pm-3am, Su 7pm-2:30am. Cash only.
Oddland, C. Joaquim Costa, 52 (☎934 12 00 49; oddland_bcn@hotmail.com). Universitat. Walk down Ronda de Sant Antoni and make a right on C. Joaquim Costa. Tall green tables, funky walls with plaster and amoeba-shaped splotches, and a projected black-and-white movie on the back wall make this bar decidedly odd—but in a happy sort of way. Happy hour 6-10pm; mixed drinks €4. Serves snacks. Open M-Th 7pm-2am, F-Sa 7pm-3am. Cash only.
Café de les Delicies, Rambla del Raval, 47. Liceu or Paral.lel. Walk down C. Sant Pau until you reach the Rambla del Raval; the bar is on the right. Turquoise walls, wood tables, and fresh flowers make this bar feel like a trendy household kitchen—a great place to kick back for a quiet conversation with friends. At one end of the bar, you’ll find leather sofas and books to read. Mixed drinks €6. Open M-Th 10am-2am, F-Sa 10am-3am. Cash only.
Tra.lers, C. Trallers, 39-41 (☎934 12 78 43). Catalunya. Walk down C. Pelai and make a left on C. de Jovellanos, then another left on C. Trallers. Restaurant by day and bar by night. No-frills black walls and L-shaped floorplan give it a grunge-chic feel. Convenient location near to the Pl. de Catalunya means that the venue gets rowdy at night. Lunch menù €10. Mixed drinks €5-7. Open M-Th 11am-2am, F-Sa 11am-3am, Su 11am-2am. MC/V.
Bar Centric, C. Ramelleres, 27 (☎933 01 81 35). Catalunya. Walk down C. Pelai and make a left on C. de Jovellanos. This historic-looking tapas bar has etched-glass windows, warm lighting, wooden booths, and a great location. Residents at the affiliated Hosteleria Grau and students come in the early evening. Beer €2-4. Open 8:30am-9pm. MC/V.
The Quiet Man, Marqués de Barbera, 11 (☎934 12 12 19). Liceu, L3. Take C. Unió off Las Ramblas; after 2 blocks it becomes Marqués Barbera. As authentic an Irish pub as you’ll find in Barcelona, with homey decor, a good collection of Beleek (fine Irish china), and a friendly Irish staff. Late-night fish and chips (large, €7; small, €3.50), live music (pop or rock F-Sa midnight, Su 8:30pm), pool and foosball tables, and a private room available with reservation. Wi-Fi. Pints of imported drafts €4.40. Mixed drinks €7. Open M-W and Su6pm-2:30am, Th-Sa 6pm-3am. Cash only.
Ambar, C. St. Pau, 77 (☎628 08 74 01). Paral·lel. Walk up C. de Sant Pau. On Ambar’s big, warehouse-like walls you’ll find ornate wallpaper and empty frames. Low velvet chairs make for comfy lounging right off Las Ramblas del Raval. Olives €1.50. Beer and wine €2. Mixed drinks €6. Open M-Th and Su 8pm-2am, F-Sa 8pm-3am. MC/V.
Muy Buenas, C. Carme, 63 (☎934 42 50 53). Catalunya, L1/3/4. The bar’s modernista decor suggests a time warp back to the early days of the last century. Serves Middle Eastern and Cuban food (entrees €7-14). Come after 1am for mojitos, caipirinhas , and late-night freshly cooked pizzas. Beer €1.50-3. Mixed drinks €6-8. Poetry readings Su and W 9pm. Open M-Th 8:30am-2am, F-Sa 8:30am-3am, Su 7pm-2am. Kitchen open daily 1-5pm and 8pm-12:30am. MC/V.
Pepino, C. Nou de la Rambla, 44 (☎934 43 86 36). Drassanes. Walk up Las Ramblas and make a right on C. Nou de la Rambla; it’s a ways down on your right. “Pepino” means cucumber; come to this red-lit bar and order a “Pepino goes to Moscow” (with cucumber, ginger, lime, ginger ale, ice and vodka). You can’t help but notice the mannequin over the bar, but also check out the black-and-white movie playing on the wall over the entrance. Entrees €6-10. Open M-Th 6:30pm-2:30am, F-Sa 7pm-3am. Kitchen open until midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
Pastis, Santa Mónica, 4 (☎933 18 79 80). Drassanes, L3. Walk 1 block up Las Ramblas and turn left on Santa Mónica. An older crowd of absinthe and pastis drinkers come to enjoy live music in this small, old tavern. Every square inch is covered with something of interest: portraits, pictures, paper cranes, mannequins suspended from the ceiling, etc. Absinthe and pastis €5. Beer €3. Mixed drinks €6.50. Live tango Tu 10:30pm; other live music W, Th, Su. Open Tu-Th and Su 7pm-2am, F-Sa 7pm-3am. MC/V.
Bar Pepe, Valdonzella, 36. Universitat. Walk down C. Valdonzella toward C. Joaquin Costa; it’s on your right. This dive bar has graffitied walls, but it’s right near the university and drinks are as cheap as they get. Beer €2. Mixed drinks €3.50 until 9pm, then €5. Open daily 1-5pm and 8pm-12:30am. Cash only.
Hostel-Bar, C. Nou de la Rambla and C. Guardia. Drassanes. Walk one block up Las Ramblas and turn left on Santa Monica; it’s at the end of the block on your left. What this bar lacks in decoration it makes up for in colorful clientele. Folks from all walks of life stumble into this corner haunt, where beer is €2, shots are €1, and the “jarra hostel bar” (a house specialty) is €12. The bar is affiliated with a hostel and guests get discounted drinks. Wi-Fi. Open M-Th 8am-2am, F-Sa 8am-3am, Su 10am-midnight. Cash only.

Clubs

Moog, C. Arc del Teatre, 3 (☎933 01 72 82; www.masimas.com/moog). Liceu or Drassanes. Industrial metal walls and swirling green lights betray this as the techno headquarters of Barcelona, though the upstairs dance floor blasts music from the 80s and 90s. Look for discount flyers on Las Ramblas. Cover €10. Open daily midnight-5am, weekends until 6am. W especially popular. MC/V at bar.
Valhalla Rock Club, C. Tallers, 68 (www.myspace.com/valhallaclubderock). Universitat. Walk down C. Tallers. A must-visit for rockers, goths, and death-metal enthusiasts. The club’s 2009 summer lineup included artists such as Los Mercenarios and Riot of Violence. Check their MySpace page for upcoming shows and covers. Happy hour daily; kegs until 10pm. Open M-Th 6pm-2:30am, F-Sa 6pm-3am, Su 6pm-2:30am. Cash only.