The Northern Tip Overview

Upon heading north of Coromandel, travelers bid farewell to the comforts of hostels and cyber cafes and fend for themselves in mother nature. With jumbled green hills, deserted crescent bays, and twisting trees, the natural wonders of the North unfold around every corner and may even help you to make friends with those blasted sandflies. The Coromandel Walkway, between Fletcher and Stony Bays, is noteworthy as a relatively easy tramp through untouched kauri forests, intermittently broken by panoramic views of the craggy coast.

Transportation. The quality of roads in the region is inversely proportional to the “gasp” factor—the more beautiful the scenery, the more harrowing the drive. The narrow gravel roads do add charm and a pleasant sense of isolation, though they have a tendency to flood. One road winds up the west side to Fletcher Bay at the top of the Tip; another branches off just past Colville (28km north of Coromandel) and finds its way to Stony Bay. The well-stocked Colville General Store is the northernmost opportunity to fill up on gas and groceries on the Tip. (☎866 6805. Open daily 8:30am-5pm.) Check your rental agreement about the area before setting off—poor road conditions will be murder on your vehicle. Mountain biking is a great, but strenuous way to circuit the Tip along the track connecting Fletcher and Stony Bay. Hitchhiking is all but impossible here in the winter. Some succeed in the summer (once past Colville, thumbers usually only accept rides going all the way); however, Let’s Go doesn’t recommend it, and prospective hitchers should keep in mind that it’s easy to get stuck out on the road. Inquire at the visitors center about the rural delivery man who makes the trip up to Fletcher’s Bay every Wednesday and often welcomes tag-alongs.

Accommodations. Colville Farm Backpackers (BBH) , less than 1km south of the general store, offers down and dirty rural fun (horses, glowworms, and cow milking) and tidy accommodations. Many cyclists spend two nights here and then ditch their saddlebags to lighten their load for a daytrip around the Tip. Colville Farm also offers horse treks for $27. (☎866 6820; www.colvillefarmholidays.co.nz. Dorms $19; singles $22; doubles $44; self-contained 2-person huts $55-100, $10 per extra person. MC/V.) Fletcher Bay Backpackers , next to the Coromandel Walkway trailhead, is a comfy base for tramping, swimming, or fishing. Owned by the DOC, Fletcher has just 12 beds, making advance bookings essential. (☎866 6712; js.lourie@xtra.co.nz. Dorms $14.) The DOC also manages five basic campsites in the northern region, the locations of which are mapped out on the pamphlet, Coromandel Recreation Information ($1), available at the Coromandel i-Site.

Outdoor Activities. The peninsula’s 7.5km Coromandel Walkway (3-4hr. one-way) explores lonely coves, bushy valleys, and overlooks turquoise waters from high bluffs between Fletcher and Stony Bays. Apart from a few steep climbs, the walkway is not difficult, though it can be a bit hairy in winter before it’s cleared (it becomes overgrown and quite muddy). Coromandel Discovery runs their own full-day tour (9am-6pm) of the coastal walkway, with hiking from Fletcher to Stony Bay and resting in a van on the return trip. Good historical commentary, free bottled water and tea, and transport to and from your accommodations explain the steep price. Be sure to wear sturdy shoes. (☎866 7405. Book ahead. $90. MC/V.) Go Kiwi meets up with Strongman in Coromandel from Whitianga. (☎0800 446 549. $120.) While a number of tramps were once available—like the trail up Mt. Moehau (892m), the peninsula’s highest mountain—many have been indefinitely closed after human contact caused the native frogs to disappear. Mt. Moehau remains closed; contact the Coromandel DOC or i-Site for more information.