Barcelona Tossa De Mar

With 12th-century medieval ruins abutting long stretches of beach, Tossa de Mar (pop. 5893) has been a magnet for artists and romantics since French artist Marc Chagall fell in love with it in 1934. Shortly thereafter, in 1951, actress Ava Gardner fell for Spanish bullfighter Mario Cabrera during the filming of The Flying Dutchman here, much to the chagrin of her then-husband, Frank Sinatra. Like many coastal towns, Tossa suffers from the blemishes of tourism, but the beaches, Vila Vella (old quarter), and good Catalan food leave no doubt as to why Chagall called Tossa “blue paradise.”

Orientation And Practical Information

Buses arrive at Plaça de les Nacions Sense Estat, where Avinguda del Pelegrí and Avinguda Ferran Agulló meet; the town slopes down to the waterfront. From the station, make a right onto Av. del Pelegrí, then a left onto C. La Guardia. The street narrows, curving around to become C. Socors and then Carrer Portal; any street downhill to the left will lead to the beach, while staying on C. Portal will take you to the old quarter, known as the Vila Vella (5min.). Running along Tossa’s main beach, the Platja Gran, is the hyper-touristy Passeig del Mar.

Accommodations And Camping

Tossa de Mar is a seasonal town; many accommodations, restaurants, and bars are open only from May to October.

Food

Most restaurants in Tossa specialize in seafood and have reasonably priced menùs, but the best food and ambience is found in the old quarter. For groceries, head to Can Palou, C. La Guardia, 25.

Sights And Beaches

Centre D’Interpretació Dels Fars De La Mediterrània. Inside the walled fortress of the Vila Vella, an escalating spiral of medieval alleys and steep stairways lead all the way to a picture-perfect view of the city and the surrounding cales (small coves), as well as this recently opened museum, where an audio-visual exhibit captures the glory and the drama of lighthouse construction and maintenance. (☎972 34 33 59. Open June-Aug. 10am-8pm; Sept.-May 10am-6pm. €3, students €2, under 12 free.)

Museu Municipal. This museum is located at the tiny Pl. Pintor J. Roig y Soler and housed in the 14th-century Villa dels Ametllers. The museum has a collection of astonishingly well-preserved Roman mosaics dating from the AD fourth to fifth centuries, as well as 1920s and 30s Modern art. The room dedicated to Marc Chagall holds El violinista celest, one of his only remaining works in Spain, as well as letters he wrote to the mayor of Tossa. (☎972 34 07 09. Open June-Aug. M and Su 10am-2pm and 4-8pm, Tu-Sa 10am-8pm; Sept.-May Tu-Sa 10am-2pm and 4-6pm, Su 10am-2pm. €3, students €2.)

Vila Vella Ramparts. Tossa del Mar’s Vila Vella is the sole remaining fortified medieval town on the Catalan coast. The old town’s distinctive stone buildings are, for the most part, 14th- to 18th-century restorations of what were originally 12th-century buildings. The perimeter walls and battlements, however, are by and large unchanged. Of the four original 12th-century towers, three—the Joanas Tower (overlooking the bay), the Clock Tower (at the entrance to the parade ground), and the Codolar Tower (overlooking Codolar Beach)—remain intact. The fourth tower was replaced by the present-day lighthouse. (Placa de l’Esglesia. Free.)

Parish Church Of Sant Vicenc. This church was built between 1755 and 1776, at a time when the congregation had outgrown the 15th-century church in Vila Vella. Built in a Neo-Classical style, the church was originally decorated with Baroque altars and images; unfortunately, most of these disappeared during the Spanish Civil War. Since then, the paint work has been restored and the church continues to serve parishioners. (Placa de l’Esglesia. Free.)

Beaches. Tossa’s main beach, surrounded by cliffs and the Vila Vella, draws the majority of beachgoers. To escape the crowds, visit some of the neighboring coves, accessible by foot. The tiny T Es Codolar rests under the tower of Vila Vella, hugged by wooded cliffs.