Barcelona Calella De Palafrugell

Calella de Palafrugell’s beautiful stretches of small beaches and rocky coves draw vacationers to bask in the Mediterranean sunlight and admire the boat-filled bay. Though locals refer to it simply as “Calella,” it is not to be confused with the town of Calella on the Costa del Maresme, nor with the nearby Palafrugell, a 15-minute bus ride from Calella de Palafrugell.

Transportation And Practical Information. Sarfa buses run from Barcelona to Palafrugell (2½hr; Sept.-June 7-8 per day, July-Aug. 14 per day; €16) and from Palafrugell to Calella de Palafrugell and Llafranc (15-20min.; July-Aug. 24 per day, Sept. and June 12-16 per day, Oct.-May 4-5 per day 7:40am-4pm; €1.40). For taxi service, call Rádio Taxi (☎972 61 00 00) or Taxis Europa (☎639 13 26 33); both operate 24hr. A taxi from Palafrugell to Calella de Palafrugell should cost around €12. The Calella de Palafrugell tourist office is located at C. de las Voltes, 4. (☎972 61 44 75. Open daily June 10am-1pm and 5-8pm; July-Aug. 10am-8pm.) The hospital, CAP Alsina i Bofill, is in Palafrugell on C. d’Angel Guimerá, 6 (☎972 61 06 07). Internet access is available at Pizzeria La Chispita and Vent del Mar (see Food). Both charge €1 per 15min. The post office is on Pl. de las Escoles. (Open M-F 9am-11:30am, Sa 9:30-11am.) Postal Code (Palafrugell): 17200.

Accommodations And Food. Hotel prices in Calella de Palafrugell range from expensive to outrageous—many budget travelers choose to stay in neighboring Llafranc or inland at Palafrugell proper, which both offer beds at more reasonable rates. The Hotel Mediterrani , C. Francesc Estrabau, 40, is (believe it or not) one of the most reasonable in Calella de Palafrugell. More affordable rooms are simply furnished, and a comfortable lounge area and dining room feature beautiful views of the bay (as do the most expensive rooms). (May-Oct. ☎972 61 45 00, Nov.-Apr. 932 09 91 13; www.hotelmediterrani.com. All rooms have private baths and TVs. Breakfast included. Singles €55-70; doubles €70-138, with view €104-150. MC/V.) Hotel Port Bo , C. August Pi y Sanyer, 6, compensates for a more obstructed view of the sea by offering spotless rooms with TVs, A/C, and balconies, as well as a pool. (☎972 61 49 62 or 972 61 50 86; www.hotelportbo.com. Free Wi-Fi and internet. Singles €58-72 low season, in high season €81-88; doubles €76-94/€110-120. MC/V.) Ishmael and Queequeg pitch their tents at Moby Dick , C. Costa Verda, 16-28. Look for the white whale made of ship’s line to find this convenient campground close to the water. (☎972 61 43 07; www.campingmobydick.com. Reception 9am-9pm. Open Apr.-Sept. €3.40-5.70 per adult, tent, and car; €1.80-3.30 per child. Bungalows €50-99. Cash only.)

At Restaurant Sol Ixent , C. dels Canyers, 24, on the right end of the bay facing the water, a modest outdoor patio boasts a magnificent view away from the touristy section of the boardwalk. Fresh salads, seafood, pasta, and rice dishes (including various vegetarian options) run €6.50-18. Try the arugula salad with mixed greens, pears, and shredded Manchego cheese for €8. (☎972 61 50 51. Open daily June-Sept. and Oct.-May Sa-Su 1-11pm. MC/V.) La Clova , C. del Pintor Joan Serra at C. de Chopitea, will satisfy. (☎972 614 881. Pizzas €7-9. Salads €7. Open from Mar. to mid-Sept. 10:30am-11:30pm. Cash only.)

Nightlife And Festivals. Nightlife in Calella de Palafrugell consists mostly of pubs that close relatively early. There are some festivals, such as Festival Jardins de Cap Roig, a series of concerts in July and August headlined by big-name international artists like James Taylor and Leonard Cohen. (For more information, contact Fundació Caixa de Girona, ☎902 44 77 55 or visit www.caixagirona.com. General admission tickets €25-65.) The Costa Brava Jazz Festival also brings music to Calella de Palafrugell in July and August. The Festa Mayor de Sant Pere takes place in Calella de Palafrugell at the end of June, honoring the town’s patron saint. On the first Saturday of July the Cantada de Havaneres is celebrated in Calella de Palafrugell, where hundreds of people gather to hear the havaneres, 19th century sea-shanties named after the Cuban city from which they originated. Llafranc holds its Festa Major de Santa Rosa with dances and activities around August 30. If you are here the first Saturday of September, check out the Mercat Boig (“crazy market”) in Pl. del Promontori, where practically anything and everything is sold (but mostly crafts and antiques).

Outdoor Activities. For most, a trip to Calella de Palafrugell means a tranquil and picturesque day of tanning, swimming, and eating. For the less lethargic, however, the Camino de Ronda trail extends in both directions following the coastline of Calella up to Llafranc in the north and leading toward the Jardí Botànic de Cap Roig in the south. It’s about a 40min. hike from the center of Calella. (☎972 61 45 82. Open June-Sept. 10am-8pm, Oct.-May 10am-8pm; €6.) A free map of the trail and all of Calella de Palafrugell is available at the tourist office. Poseidon Nemrod Diving, based on Platja Port Pelegri, offers introductory scuba-diving lessons including a half-hour dive (€50; with 2 dives €80). Other more extensive courses (€180-360) are available, and experienced divers can rent equipment and hire guides to explore the underwater creatures amongst the nearby reefs. (☎972 615 345; www.divecalella.com. Open Apr.-Oct.)