Barcelona Cadaqués And Port Lligat

Forty years ago, Cadaqués (pop. 2900) was a well-kept Catalan secret. Only a trickle of French tourists visited every summer, and the town had closer diplomatic relations with Cuba than with the rest of Catalunya. The distinctive variety of Catalan spoken here is a testament to the enduring individuality of this drop-dead gorgeous beach town. The whitewashed houses, terra-cotta roofs, and azure bay have attracted artists, writers, and musicians ever since Dalí built his summer home on the neighboring beach, Port Lligat, in the 1930s. From September to May, the town is best experienced as a daytrip, as many food and entertainment establishments close in the low season; however, keep in mind the limited transportation options for a same-day return.

Practical Information

Accommodations And Camping

As Cadaqués is a beach town, many accommodations only open during the summer, and often require reservations.

Food

Tourists in Cadaqués (many of them French) expect only the best. Even the seaside restaurants in the town serve respectable food, but you may find more interesting choices in the back streets. The exquisite fresh food ought to justify the relatively high prices. Valvi, on Riera de Sant Vicenç a block from Pl. Frederic Rahola, sells groceries for portside picnics. (☎972 25 86 33. Open June-Sept. M-Sa 8:30am-9pm, Su 9am-2pm; Oct.-May M-Sa 8:30am-3pm and 4-8:15pm, Su 8:30am-3pm. MC/V.)

Sights

Casa-Museu Salvador Dalí. This is the house where Dalí and his wife Gala lived until her death in 1982. The house is actually seven fishermen’s houses that Dalí bought and transformed one by one. While lacking in original Dalí paintings, the house overflows with esoteric trinkets like a stuffed bear and lip-shaped sofas. The pool—inspired by the Alhambra—is inexplicably guarded by a plastic Michelin Man. (In Port Lligat. Follow the signs at C. Miranda or take the trolley that leaves from Pl. Frederic Rahola for the scenic 10km route to Port Lligat. (45min.; 5 per day 11am-6pm; €7.50, children €5.50). ☎972 25 10 15. Open from mid-June to mid-Sept. daily 9:30am-9pm, last entry 8:10pm; from mid-Sept. to Jan. and mid-Mar. to mid-June Tu-Su 10:30am-6pm, last entry 5:10pm. Mandatory supervised visits with limited space. It’s highly recommended to call and reserve 4-5 days in advance. €10, students and seniors €8, under 9 free.) Boat rides in Dalí’s own Gala depart from the dock in front of the house on the hour for a 55min. trip to Cap de Creus. (☎617 46 57 57. Open daily 11am-8pm, depending on weather. Min. 2 people. €10, children €5.)

Nightlife

Nightlife in Cadaqués is vibrant in summer but limited to weekends in winter, and centers around Passeig and C. Miquel Rosset, both just off of Pl. Frederic Rahola. Make sure you’ve got a firm idea of where your lodgings are (or a map) before you go out at night, as you might have some trouble navigating the winding, unpatterned streets after dark, especially after a few beers.

Outdoor Activities

Diving Center Cadaqués, C. de la Miranda (☎652 31 77 97; www.divingccadaques.com, info@divingccadaques.com), offers 45min. dives for €45 (including tank, air, and weights). Certain routes depend on wind direction and weather: call for information on special offers. Reservations suggested (Open July-Aug. daily, 9am-8pm; Sept.-June weekends 9am-8pm). The first weekend in September brings dozens of old-fashioned sailboats to the harbor for the renowned Trobada de Barques de Vela Llatina. On the weekend before September 11, the Festa Major d’Estiu fills the streets with Sardanas, fútbol, dances, concerts, and more. December 18 brings more of the same at the Festa Major d’Hivern. From late June through August, the Festival Internacional de Música de Cadaqués attracts big-name international classical musicians.