The Outer Hebrides Overview

Ancient history comes to life in the Outer Hebrides, where thatched-roof houses, standing stones, and relics from generations past sit amid a landscape of exposed rock. The islands are so steeped in tradition that you’re more likely to get an earful of Gaelic here than anywhere else in Scotland. On the Calvinist islands of Lewis and Harris, almost all establishments close and public transportation ceases on Sundays, although one or two places may assist lost souls with a pint. The extreme seclusion and quiet of the islands make the Western Isles some of Scotland’s most undisturbed, unforgettable realms.

CalMac (☎08000 665 000) has a near monopoly on passenger and car ferries along major routes. It runs from Ullapool to Stornoway, Lewis (2hr.; 2-3 per day; £15, 5-day round-trip £26, car £75/127), from Uig, Skye to Lochmaddy, North Uist (1hr.; 1-2 per day; £10, 5-day round-trip £17.10, car £48/82), and to Tarbert, Harris (1hr.; 1-2 per day; £10, 5-day round-trip £17.10, car £48/82), and from Oban to Castlebay, Barra and Lochboisdale, South Uist (6hr.; 1 per day; £22, 5-day round-trip £50, car £81/137). Call ahead if you wish to take a car.

In the archipelago, ferries brave rough sounds and infrequent buses cross causeways connecting the islands. TICs carry the invaluable, free Discover Scotland’s Islands with Caledonian MacBrayne, Lewis and Harris Bus Timetables. Inexpensive car rental (from £25 per day) is available. Road signs are in Gaelic first and English second, if at all. Although many names are similar in English, TICs often carry translation keys, and Let’s Go lists Gaelic equivalents after English place names where appropriate. For more on Scottish Gaelic words, see the Appendix. Cycling is popular, although windy hills and sudden rains often wipe out novice riders. Traffic is light, but hitchhikers report frequent lifts on all the islands. Let’s Go does not recommend hitchhiking.