The Wimmera And Mallee Overview

The Wimmera and Mallee regions fill the remote northwestern part of Victoria. Mountains, lakes, swamps, wildlife reserves, rich farmland, and rugged bushland can all be found in this area. West of the Goldfields, inland Victoria rises with the rugged peaks of Grampians National Park before gradually settling into an immense plain that stretches west into South Australia and north into New South Wales. The Wimmera region takes its name from the river that begins in the Grampians and wanders north past the Little Desert National Park. North of Little Desert and west of the Sunraysia Hwy., all the way up to Mildura, is the semi-arid expanse of the Mallee, named for the mallee eucalyptus, a hardy water-hoarding tree that thrives in the rugged plains.

In 1836, Major Mitchell, in command of a British expedition, was hiking through seemingly endless plains, when he suddenly spotted a range of majestic hills. He named them the Grampians after a range in his home country of Scotland; the ensuing rush of settlers steadily pushed the Jardwadjali and Djab Wurrung Aboriginal people out of their ancestral home of Gariwerd. A park visit affords travelers insight into indigenous cultural history (80% of the rock art sites in Victoria can be found here, including five major sites open to the public), as well as access to breathtaking ranges, peerless rock climbing and hiking, abundant wildlife, rare birds, and a springtime carpet of technicolor wildflowers. In early 2006, a devastating fire tore through the park, scorching much of the landscape. Though the ecosystem is slowly regenerating, complete recovery will take many years; be sure to consult Parks Victoria (see below) and their updated maps to verify which trails and camp sites have reopened to the public.

Transportation And Orientation

The northern approach passes through Horsham, at the junction of Western and Henty Hwy., roughly 18km north of the park. From the south, the town of Dunkeld, on the Glenelg Hwy., provides access via Mt. Abrupt Rd. From the east, the town of Stawell (rhymes with “shawl”) is 26km away. The most convenient point of entry is on the eastern edge of the park at Halls Gap ( Budja Budja; pop. 350), is the only town in the park itself. Nestled in a crevasse between two mountains, the tiny settlement has an overpriced grocery store, budget accommodations, a petrol station, and that’s about it. Everything is clustered together in a small strip on Grampians Road, also called Dunkeld Road, Stawell Road, and sometimes even Main Road, which runs from Halls Gap to Dunkeld.

One V/Line bus per day leaves from opposite the newsagency in Halls Gap bound for Ararat (1hr.; $8.10) via Stawell (30min.; $5.40), Ballarat (2hr.; $17.80), and Melbourne (4hr.; $25.60). Several companies also run 2-3 day tours from Melbourne and Adelaide, with day stops in the Grampians. For a 1-day tour in the Grampians, Eco Platypus Tours runs a round-trip bus from Melbourne that stops at Reeds Lookout, the Balconies, and MacKenzie Falls. (☎03 9419 5950 or 1800 819 091; www.ecoplatypustours.com. Depart Melbourne W, F, Su 8:15am; return 9pm. $90 per person; group discounts.) From late Feb. to early Nov. you can hitch a ride on the Sandlant schoolbus between Halls Gap and Stawell (☎03 5356 9342; 30min., M-F 3 per day, $7.70).

Practical Information

  The Brambuk Centre (a.k.a., National Park and Cultural Centre and Brambuk Living Cultural Centre ), 2.5km south of Halls Gap town center on Dunkeld Rd., is the best resource for those interested in the local Aboriginal culture. For handicapped travelers, the Brambuk Centre has a handy pamphlet listing wheelchair-accessible routes throughout the park. (☎03 5361 4000. Open daily 9am-4:45pm. Hiking maps $3.30, Riding and Touring map $6; donations appreciated.) Though the ranger office is not open to the public, Parks Victoria (☎13 19 63; www.parkweb.vic.gov.au) publishes helpful Park Notes, available at the Brambuk Centre. The Halls Gap Visitors Centre in the town center can answer many questions about the park as well, though it is geared toward accommodation and dining options. (☎03 5356 4616 or 1800 065 599; www.grampianstravel.com. Open daily 9am-5pm.) The Mobil petrol station has basic camping and food provisions and an ATM. (☎03 5356 4206. Open daily 7am-8pm.) If your car breaks down, Stawell & Grampians Towing (☎03 5358 4000) is open 24hr. The Halls Gap police station (☎03 5356 4411) is located just north of the town center, at the intersection of Grampians and Mt. Victory Rd. The post office is rather small and located just beside the general store. (Open M-F 9am-5pm.) Postal Code: 3381.

Accommodations And Camping

In addition to the excellent hostels in and around Halls Gap, there are 140 major camping areas in the park, all with toilets and fireplaces and most with water. Rangers advise stopping at the Brambuk Centre first for a map of the park’s campsites and new information. All sites operate on a first come, first serve basis; campers must pay $12.50 (up to 6 people and 1 vehicle) for permits available at the Brambuk Centre. Those who arrive after-hours can pick up a permit and drop off the money in a box outside the center’s doors. Bush camping is free but prohibited in certain regions including the Wonderland Range and the Lake Wartook watershed. Other prohibited areas are demarcated on maps; check with the park center before camping.

• Grampians YHA Eco-Hostel (☎03 5356 4544), 700m north of the town center on Grampians Rd., at the corner of tiny Buckler St. Friendly managers take great care of the immaculate complex. Highlights include a sparkling kitchen, several cozy dens with TV or fireplace, and quaint bedrooms, each with balconies or doors into the backyard brush. Solar-heating, compost, and an herb garden and chicken coop are just some of the eco-friendly amenities. Internet $6 per hr. Free use of mountain bikes. Wash $2, dry $1. Wheelchair accessible. Reception 8-10am and 3-10pm. Book ahead, as its reputation alone attracts a steady stream of visitors year-round. For a free bed, do 2hr. of light duties each day; must have Australian work visa. 3- to 4-bed dorms with lockers $29, YHA $26; singles $62/56; doubles $75/65. MC/V.
• Tim’s Place (☎03 5356 4288; www.timsplace.com.au), on Grampians Rd., 500m north of town center. Stay at Tim’s cozy digs and meet the owner, who is committed to providing a paradise for budget travelers. Several new units, including immaculate 2-bedroom ensuite apartments with kitchens and dining areas. Free amenities include unlimited Internet and Wi-Fi, use of mountain bikes, golf cubs, tennis and badminton racquets, petanque equipment, and a pass to Brambuk Centre’s Dreaming Theatre. Laundry $4. Dorms $25; singles $45; doubles $60; triples $75. Cash only.
• Brambuk Backpackers (☎03 5356 4250; www.brambuk.com.au/backpackers.htm). Located directly across the street from the Brambuk Centre. Run by the friendly Stephanie and Alan, Brambuk has a comfy lounge with A/C, fireplace, TV, and suede couches. Large, clean kitchen. Includes continental breakfast and free pass to the Brambuk Centre’s Dreaming Theatre. Laundry $4. Internet $6 per hr. Dorms 7- to 12-bed $19, 4-bed $23; doubles $55; family $80. Cash only.
• Ned’s Beds (Grampians Backpackers), 2 Heath St. (☎03 5356 4296), just south of the Halls Gap Information Centre. Ned’s collection of quaint cabins offers casual lodging and extras including TV/DVD player, kitchen, game room, laundry, and BBQ. Ned recently acquired a 2nd unit of cabins next to Tim’s Place, which is called Ned’s Other Beds. Internet $6 per hr. If you can’t find the manager, walk over to the public pool (open daily 7-9am and 1-6:30pm) across the street from the Mobil station and ask for Blanche. Dorms $23-24; doubles $60. Cash only.
• Halls Gap Caravan Park (☎03 5356 4251; www.hallsgapcaravanpark.com.au), in the center of Halls Gap across from the Mobil station. Many walking trails start just behind the campground. Reception 8:30am-7pm. High season sites for 2 $25, low season $20; powered $30/25; extra person $5. On-site caravans for 2 $53/47. Units from $75. 7th night free during low season. MC/V.

Food

Budget-savvy travelers purchase food at a supermarket before arriving in the Grampians, since even the General Store will cost you an arm and a leg for a decent meal. There is a large Safeway in Stawell in the town center at 26-32 Scallon St. (Open M-Sa 9am-10pm, Su 10am-10pm.) Groceries can also be purchased at the Halls Gap General Store, although high prices drive the locals elsewhere; you’ll get a pack of hot dogs and some Tim Tams for the price of a night’s stay in town. (Open daily 8am-7:30pm.) For those on the go, the Brambuk Centre offers authentic bush tucker ($10-15) for lunch.

• Coolas Ice Creamery, Stoney Creek Stores (☎03 5356 4466). The 1st shop in the complex; bakes fresh waffle cones and offers an assortment of ice cream flavors. Try the popular Honeycomb or Bailey’s with scorched almonds. Cheap hotdogs ($3) and spuds ($6). Waffle cone with 1 scoop $3, 2 scoops $4.30, 3 scoops $5.50; sundaes $6. Open daily 9am-6pm or later. Cash only.
• The Balconies (☎03 5356 4430; www.thebalconies.com), at the Mountain Grand Hotel, right next to the caravan park in town. Elegant meals and friendly service accompanied by live jazz on Saturday nights. Try the “Kangaroo Experience” ($26), Tuscan lasagna ($22), or salmon ($26). Live Jazz Saturdays also offers a $45, 3-course meal. Open daily 6:30pm-late. Bookings essential. MC/V.
• The Flying Emu, Stoney Creek Stores (☎03 5356 4400), has a respectable selection of vegetarian and gluten-free options for $8-13, with lighter fare starting at $4. Spinach and feta quiche $12. Coffee and hot chocolate $3.50. Open daily 9am-4pm, sometimes later. 10% YHA discount. Cash only.
• Black Panther Cafe, Shop 6, Stoney Creek Stores, (☎03 5356 4511) is a licensed bar that offers a wide selection of pizzas ($12-20) and mains ($10-24). $10 specials. Iced coffees and milkshakes $4.50. Fresh fruit smoothies $6.50. Open M-Th 8am-9pm, F-Su 8am-late. Meals served 8am-3pm and 5-9pm. MC/V.

Sights

Most of the Grampians’ most noteworthy lookouts and waterfalls lie along Mt. Victory Rd. in the Wonderlands region, making for streamlined scenic tours. Unfortunately, these sights are a good distance from Halls Gap and require a car. From Halls Gap, take the turnoff at Mt. Victory with signs for MacKenzie Falls. The first stop along the way (10km from Halls Gap) is the Boroka lookout. Follow the marked turnoff on Mt. Difficult Rd. for about 5km until you reach the carpark with the lookout directly in front of it, offering an excellent view of the eastern side of the range. Continuing up Mt. Victory Rd. for another 8km, the next lookout is Reeds Lookout (also spelled Reids). From the Reeds Lookout carpark, an easy, mostly flat trail (1km, 20min.) to Grampians icon Balconies (Jaws of Death) ends in sweeping panoramas. The Balconies themselves, a pair of parallel slabs of sandstone, jut out over the steep sides of Mt. Victory and are a superb spot to watch the sunset. From the Reeds Lookout carpark, continue up Mt. Victory Rd. another 7.5km until the turnoff for   MacKenzie Falls. Those who brave the 1.1km steep, downhill path to MacKenzie Falls (and remember, what goes down must come up), are rewarded with one of Victoria’s most spectacular waterfalls—a 25m wall of crashing water. There is a wheelchair-accessible approach to the top of the falls (1.75km), but not to the base. From here, most tourists turn around and head back to Halls Gap, unaware that Aboriginal rock art sites lie just 20min. further up Mt. Victory Rd. For more info on the Gulgurn Manja and Ngamadjidj shelters,

Aboriginal Rock Art. Before the intrusion of Major Mitchell and his British army, Gariwerd (the Grampians) was home to the Aboriginal Jardwadjali (yard-wa-JA-li) and Djab Wurrung people for thousands of years. There are about 60 Aboriginal rock shelters scattered through the Grampians, where indigenous people camped and painted over 4000 motifs of their life and law on the sandstone walls. Very few sites in the Grampians have been investigated, but research shows that Aboriginal people have camped in the Grampians rock shelters for the last 22,000 years and have lived in the area now called Victoria for at least 40,000 years. Five of the most impressive sites are open to the public: one in Central Grampians (Bunjil) , two in the Northern Grampians (Gulgurn Manja and Ngamadjidj) , two in the western end of the Southern Grampians (Billimina and Manja) . Before heading into the park, visit the Brambuk Aboriginal Culture Centre. The invaluable information available at the center includes displays about the cultural history of the Jardwadjali and Djab Wurrung people. The Dreaming Theatre’s 30min. light-and-sound show tells a traditional dreaming story explaining the creation of Gariwerd, and offers a geographic perspective of the national park. The Brambuk Centre also offers a guided rock-art tour to the Bunjil site. (☎03 5361 4000. Open daily 9am-5pm. Entry free. Shows every 30min.; $5, concessions and children $3, families $12. 2hr. tours depart M-F 9:30am; bookings essential. $20, concessions $5, children $8.)

• Bunjil (150m, 15min. one-way). The closest to Halls Gap in Central Grampians, the Bunjil shelter is the most important rock art site in the Grampians and in Victoria. Visit the site either with the Brambuk guided rock-art tour (see above) or on your own. The site depicts Bunjil, the traditional creator of the land, and his 2 dingoes. When his work on earth was finished, he turned into an eagle that then flew into the sky to become a brilliant star. From Halls Gap, head south on Lake Fyans Rd. to Pomonal. In town, Lake Fyans Rd. (here a.k.a. Pomonal-Stawell Rd.) curves left in the direction of Stawell. The Bunjil Shelter is well-marked, 11km before Stawell.
• Ngamadjidji (300m, 10min. round-trip). From Halls Gap, turn down Mt. Victory Rd. (the same road that leads you past the Balconies and MacKenzie Falls). About 20min. past MacKenzie Falls, turn left on Plantation Rd. The sealed road ends, leading straight to Ngamadjidj or left to Mt. Zero Olives and Gulgurn Manja (below). The Ngamadjidj shelter is a gentle 100m walk from the carpark; this is the easiest and shortest walk to any of the 5 rock art sites. Translating to “white person,” the paintings at this shelter are unusual only because the motifs were painted with white clay, while elsewhere red pigment was favored. The remnants of 16 painted figures are on the panel, but some are becoming very faint. Stone tools and remains of campfires have also been found at this shelter, suggesting it was a favored camping place.
• Gulgurn Manja (1km, 20-40min. round-trip). Following the same directions from Halls Gap to Ngamadjidji, turn left when the sealed road ends, which will lead you to Gulgurn Manja and Mt. Zero Olives. The shelter lies .5km from the carpark, and the beautiful 15min. walk ends in amazing views over the valley below. Translating to “hands of young people,” the Gulgurn Manja (GOOL-koorn MAHN-ya) shelter is located at the northern tip of Gariwerd. For the groups of Jarwadjali, this shelter was used to scout the fires of other groups on the plains to the north. They also chiseled stone tools from the fine-grained sandstone in the area, and marks where the stone was broken from the wall can still be seen. The paintings depict bars, emu tracks, and handprints, many made by Aboriginal children, hence the name of the shelter. The handprints here were made by pressing a painted hand directly to the rock, as opposed to the stenciled hands at Manja.
• Billimina (1.7m loop, 45min. round-trip). Billimina and Manja, the two shelters in the Southern Grampians, are the least convenient to reach from Halls Gap. However, if you make the trek, the serene sites will reward your effort. From Halls Gap, follow Mt. Victory Rd. past MacKenzie Falls. Just past Wartook Valley, turn right on Brimpaen-Laharum Rd. toward Brimpaen. When this road ends, turn left onto Henty Hwy., following arrows to Hamilton. At signs for Buandik Campground, turn left on Billwing Rd. The Billimina shelter is just past the Buandik campground. The walk from the carpark to the shelter is the only walk graded “medium,” while the other 4 are graded “easy.” The steady uphill walk (20min., 1.3km) leads to the massive rock overhang. A common camping area for the Jardwadjali people, excavations in 1976 revealed stone tools and remains of plant and animal food. Over 2500 motifs cover the walls here, painted with ochre strokes. The most noteworthy are the many bars arranged in horizontal rows; it is believed that these were used to count events in retelling stories or record the number of days spent at a place. Though difficult to see, there are also emus, kangaroo and emu tracks, and 55 human stick-figures painted in the shelter.
• Manja (2.6km, 1hr. round-trip). Follow the same directions to the Buandik Campground as above. Before the campground, a turnoff leads you to the Manja shelter 10min. farther up the road. The 1.3km walk to the rock shelter site is easy. Manja has more hand stencils than any other site in Victoria, a total of 90. Conveying the link between the Jardwadjali people and their land, the hand stencils were a way of recording a visit to the rock overhang, renewing the ties to the rock with each visit and each stencil. Animal tracks and many human stick-figures are also depicted on the sandstone walls.

Hiking

Indescribably beautiful and rugged, the park has easy tracks for those seeking beautiful scenery, as well as difficult tracks for more experienced hikers and rock-climbers looking for racing heartbeats. Some Wonderland walks lead to serene waterfalls and rock formations. To the south, Victoria Valley is carpeted with red gum woodlands and is home to emus and kangaroos. Experienced hikers might want to tackle some of the steep trails on the range’s highest peak, Mount William (1168m), at the park’s extreme eastern end; the “trail” to the summit is fully paved and well traveled. The Wonderland hikes vary by difficulty and duration (from 30min. to 6hr. to several days). The trails below start near Halls Gap; all distances are round-trip, although budget extra time if you want to ponder the meaning of life at the summit.

• Wonderland Trail (11.5km, 4-5hr. round-trip). The trail starts behind the town center carpark; walk past the swimming pool and rear asphalt road and turn left before the Botanical Gardens. Moderately difficult, this hike traverses many of the most-touristed sites; slightly more strenuous detours abound. The ½-day loop along well-formed tracks leads first to the Venus Baths, a series of rock pools popular for swimming in summer (when water levels are high enough), then to Splitters Falls. The trail continues through the lush forest along a creek to the Wonderland carpark, then up the spectacular Grand Canyon and eventually to the narrow rock tunnel Silent Street. At the awe-inspiring Pinnacle, sweeping views of the valley reward breathless hikers. The trail is well-marked (and well-traveled). To reach the Pinnacle, follow the orange arrows that point up into the rock. At the Pinnacle, the short Forest Loop joins back to the original trail at Bridalveil Falls, returning to Halls Gap.
• Mount Rosea Loop (12km, 4-5hr. round-trip). A more difficult hike that should be attempted only with a copy of the Wonderland Walks map ($3.30), sold at the Brambuk Centre. Starts at the Rosea Campground, located on Silverband Rd. off Mt. Victory Rd. The hike ascends through forest to a sandstone plateau. The orange markers are somewhat difficult to follow in this area; be careful not to lose the trail. After a bit of scrambling over rocky ledges, turn left at the sign for Mt. Rosea and continue to a summit with one of the most spectacular vistas in the Grampians. Follow the trail back to the intersection and head left, away from the Rosea Campground, through a forest, then onto a 4WD track, which leads to the Burma Track. Keep left around the outlying portions of the Sierra Range. At Silverband Rd., turn right and walk for 200m to the Dellys Dell Track, then uphill for about 700m to the Rosea Campground.
• Boronia Peak Trail (6.6km, 2-3hr. round-trip). Starts past the kangaroo fields next to the Brambuk Centre or, alternatively, from the narrow path by the bridge just north of Tim’s Place (add roughly 2km to the latter route). This trail is more difficult than the Wonderland Trail, but shorter. For the first half of the hike, the dense forest provides plentiful opportunities to observe birds and other wildlife. The moderate terrain ends in a short, unmarked scramble to the peak. With a lake to the south, flat bush country to the east, and the jagged Wonderland range to the west, the view is worth the haul to the top.
• Chatauqua Peak Loop (Shi-TA-kwa; 5.6km, 2-3hr. round-trip). Starts from behind the Recreation Oval on Mt. Victory Rd., 150m from the intersection with Grampians Rd. The hike opens with an up-close view of tranquil Clematis Falls, best seen after rain. The final 400m climb to the peak is long and strenuous, but the views of Halls Gap and the valley are perfect. Or, skip the boulder hop; the main trail continues on through to Bullaces Glen, a green fern gully. At the glen, cross Mt. Victory Rd. and continue on the forest trail (many accidentally follow the road) to the botanical gardens in Halls Gap.
• Mount Stapylton Summit (4.6km, 2-3hr. round-trip). A challenging hike that requires a bit of scrambling over elevated ledges, as well as some basic navigation skills. Starts at the Mount Zero picnic area in the northern Grampians; before setting off, purchase the Northern Walks map ($3.30) from the Brambuk Centre. The hike begins with a long uphill walk over unshaded Flat Rock, then passes through a wooded area to the base of Mt. Stapylton. The hike to the summit is extremely strenuous; beware of crevasses and stay close to the trail markers. The view from the top includes many of the surrounding mountain ranges and plains. On the way back down, you have the option of returning to the Mt. Zero Picnic area directly or turning the outing into a ½-day hike by tackling the entire Mount Stapylton Loop (12.2km, 5-7hr.). Follow the signs for the trail to the Stapylton Campground (4.4km), which passes through dense scrub. From the campground, signs mark the trail back to the Mt. Zero Picnic Area. The loop and summit can also be attempted by starting from—and returning to—the Stapylton Campground.

Rock Climbing And Abseiling

The Grampians offer thousands of routes to some of the best rock climbing in the entire world, and there are plenty of companies in the area to hook you up with your next adrenaline rush. Nearby Mount Arapiles is the best bet for diehard climbers; most routes are accessible from a central location. Those who prefer the crags of the Grampians will need a car to get from site to site. Several small adventure companies operate in the region and offer guided climbs at all skill-levels in the northern section of the park at crags such as “Asses Ears,” “Wall of Fools,” “Manic Depressive,” “Golden Shower,” and “Group Sex.” While many have offices in Halls Gap, they are more often than not unattended, since the guides are out on tours. Last-minute types beware: you must book at least a week in advance to secure a trip. Grampians Mountain Adventure Company (☎03 5383 9218 or 04 2774 7047; www.grampiansadventure.com.au) is run by an adventurous Aussie named Troy who strikes an excellent balance between good times and safety. (Climb/abseil combo ½-day; full-day $110). Absolute Outdoors, shop four in Stony Creek Stores (☎03 5356 4556; www.absoluteoutdoors.com.au), hasn’t been quite the same since the brush fires, but enthusiastic guides still offer adventures of every type. Their selection of adventures includes canoe trips, mountain biking, abseiling, and bushwalking. (½-day abseil $65, full-day $130. Groups tend to be larger here than at Grampians Mountain Adventure Company.) Hangin’ Out (☎03 5356 4535 or 04 0768 4831; www.hanginout.com.au) is another one-man company which offers half-day or full-day single-pitch and multi-pitch climbing tutorials for individuals or small groups. (4hr. climb $65; 6hr. climb/abseil combo $90, 9hr. $120. Private guiding for groups of 1-3 more expensive. Full-day guided bush walking $125.) The Grampians Personalized Tours and Adventures, in the Halls Gap newsagency, offers abseil and climb trips along Watchtower Mountain, as well as mountain biking, 4WD nature tours, and an intense 8hr. Big Day Out, with rock climbing, abseiling, mountain biking, and bushwalking. (☎03 5356 4654 or 04 2995 4686; www.grampianstours.com. ½-day abseil or climb $69, full-day abseil/climb combo $125. Big Day Out $125.)