Three larger-than-life volcanic peaks tower over North Island: massive, blocky Ruapehu (rue-uh-PIE-oo; 2797m), conical Ngauruhoe (nair-uh-HO-ee; 2291m), and sprawling Tongariro (1967m). These volcanoes—all still active—were once considered so sacred that all but the highest-born Maori shielded their eyes against their grandeur. An eerie, wind-scoured land, Tongariro National Park encloses New Zealand’s only “desert” (the desolate Rangipo), native beech forests, hardy alpine scrublands, and gem-like crater lakes set against colorful volcanic scoria.
Highways encircle Tongariro National Park. To the east, SH1, also called the Desert Road, streaks through the Rangipo Desert; ice occasionally closes this road in winter and flash floods temporarily block it during summer. To the south, SH49 splits from SH1 at Waiouru and continues west until it hits SH4, which flanks the park’s west side. SH47 traces the park’s north edge between SH4 and SH1. SH48 (also called Bruce Rd.) branches south from SH47 to Whakapapa. Mt. Ruapehu runs a daily shuttle bus from Whakapapa Village to the Whakapapa ski area. (☎07 892 3738. Departs 8:45am, returns 4pm; $10 round-trip.) Hitchhiking along any of these roads, not recommended by Let’s Go, can be a slow process, but traffic is particularly sparse along SH48. Those determined to get past Whakapapa Village should start early to catch ski field employees and never wait until dark to try their luck. The same is true for those hitching along Ohakune Mountain Rd., which heads north from SH49 to the base of Ruapehu and Turoa ski fields. Most visitors to the park stay in Turangi , National Park Village , Whakapapa Village , or Ohakune . Whakapapa Village is the most convenient to the Tongariro Northern Circuit and the Whakapapa ski fields, while Ohakune provides the easiest access to the Turoa ski fields. Operators shuttle walkers to the Tongariro Crossing trailheads from Turangi, National Park Village, Whakapapa Village, and Ohakune.
Tongariro National Park lies just southwest of Lake Taupo. Start your exploration at the DOC’s Whakapapa Visitor Centre, which presents two high-tech audiovisual shows and a treasure trove of ecological, cultural, and geological displays. It also sells gear for the inevitable trip up the volcano. (☎07 892 3729; whakapapavc@doc.govt.nz. Open daily 8am-6pm. Shows $3, children $1. Discount for 2-show package.) Its Tongariro Summer Programme (late Dec.-early Jan.) features changing ranger-led activities from backcountry heli-hikes ($110) to free evening talks. There are also smaller DOC offices in Turangi (☎07 386 8607; open M-F 8am-5pm) and Ohakune (☎06 385 0010; open M-F 9am-3pm). Turangi and Ohakune harbor supermarkets and ATMs. The DOC advises travelers to park only in the well-watched lot across from the Whakapapa Visitor Centre; vandalism and theft run rampant in many other area lots, particularly those at trailheads. The phone codes for this region are ☎06 at Ohakune and ☎07 at all points further north.
For information on the Tongariro Northern Circuit or the Tongariro Crossing, Less crowded than the park’s namesake walks, the Round-the-Mountain Track (4-6 days round-trip; huts $10, camping $5) runs around Mt. Ruapehu, traversing windswept slopes, crossing a deep gorge, and passing along the edge of the forsaken Rangipo Desert. The track intersects the Northern Circuit at both Whakapapa Village and Waihohonu Hut; people often walk the two in conjunction—storing food for the second half of the journey in Whakapapa means a 10min. detour off the trail, but a much lighter pack during the initial days. Contact the DOC before your tramp; they are currently conducting tests on volcanic mudflow.
Many dayhikes start right from Whakapapa Village. The relatively easy Tama Lakes Walk (14km; 5hr. round-trip), which follows an undulating, tussocked landscape past Taranaki Falls to the incongruous blue of Tama Lakes, is one of the best. The unmarked climb to the active Ruapehu Crater is the most difficult official dayhike in the park. Ice, snow, and volcanic activity can make the trip a risky one, and several unprepared trampers have died along the route. Most begin the trek from the top of Bruce Rd. (SH48) near the base of the Whakapapa ski lifts (7hr. round-trip); others ride the lifts to their terminus (open daily 9am-4pm; $20 round-trip) and start from there (5hr. round-trip). Staff members from the Mt. Ruapehu Ski Area conduct guided walks along this route. (☎07 892 3738. Daily walks depart at 9:30am. Bookings essential. $75, under 16 $45. Price includes lift.)
Alpine-savvy rock climbers will find a challenging 120m route on Pukekaikore called the Bomb Arete off the track near Mangatetopo Hut (mere mortals need not apply—seriously). Also nearby, the walls of Mangatetopo Valley provide a more reasonable challenge for casual climbers who might be interested in chalking up on the park’s unique volcanic rock.
The commercial ski fields that hug Ruapehu’s slopes are many people’s reason for visiting Tongariro National Park. The Mt. Ruapehu Ski Area is the largest and most developed ski area in New Zealand. One pass provides access to lifts on both sides of the mountain (Whakapapa and Turoa). The mountain was a sacred gift from a Maori chief in 1887 and the ski area still respects the sanctity of the crown—no lifts or groomers touch the top, which seduces powder-hungry skiers and boarders. Although Mt. Ruapehu attracts bad weather like a 2797m magnet (gale-force winds and storms often close the fields), the management offers a weather guarantee that allows refunds or credits if lifts have to close or if you’re unhappy with the conditions. Even so, volcano skiing is, by nature, unpredictable. Lack of sufficient snow can severely limit the mountain’s operations. Recent Mt. Ruapehu eruptions cut both the 1995 and 1996 seasons short. (☎07 892 3738, snowphone Whakapaka 08 322 22182, Turoa 08 322 22180; www.mtruapehu.com. Open July-Oct. Lifts open daily 9am-4pm. Lift pass $80, under 16 $44; half-day $48/26. Ski, boot, and pole rental $35, under 16 $25. Snowboard and boot rental $43/35. Discounts on multi-day and lift passes.)
Whakapapa. The Whakapapa side of the mountain has daunting views of Mt. Taranaki on clear days. The ski field includes 1360 acres, six chairlifts, eight T-bars, six rope tows, a beginners’ area, open terrain, and lots of easily accessible backcountry areas. Snowboarders are welcome, but most seem to prefer Turoa. (At the top of Bruce Rd. 7km from Whakapapa Village.)
Turoa. With the country’s longest vertical drop (720m) and 500 hectares of snow, Turoa is known for open terrain and long runs (the longest is 4km). Trails slope down from four chairlifts, three T-bars, four platter lifts, and one rope tow. Turoa also offers some off-trail skiing; it’s even possible to haul gear up to Crater Lake and ski down (always check with the Ski Patrol first). Snowboarders love Turoa for the natural half-pipes in its gulleys and the lack of flats. Turoa is also home to one of the most extensive parks in the country with linked features like boxes, rails, jumps, a beginner park, and a groomed half-pipe. (At the top of Ohakune Mountain Rd. 17km from Ohakune junction.)
Winding around the park’s trinity of volcanoes, the Tongariro Northern Circuit is one of the country’s most jaw-dropping tracks. The otherworldly terrain is riddled with steaming vents, technicolor lakes, and bizarre rock formations, not to mention the three volcanoes: Mt. Ngauruhoe, Mt. Tongariro, and Mt. Ruapehu. The Tongariro Crossing, a head-spinning highlights-reel day track, is by all accounts the best dayhike in the country. Though the Northern Circuit spans almost the entire length of the Tongariro Crossing, its highlights are not limited to this segment. Beyond where the tracks fork, the Circuit leads to a field of angular, naturally-sculpted lava flows, a few tranquil (if mystifyingly isolated) patches of native forest, the Tama Lakes, the Taranaki Falls, and views of the volcanoes.
Whakapapa Village To Mangatepopo Hut. 8.5km, 3-5hr. The section of track from Whakapapa Village to Mangatepopo Hut crosses several streams and affords memorable views of solitary Pukeonake and the jumble of adjacent volcanoes—an enticing teaser of what’s to come. The downside: it is extremely rutted and can get very muddy in adverse weather, leading some folks to skip this section by starting at the Tongariro Crossing Trailhead on Mangatepopo Rd. The hut itself, 5min. from the track, faces Mt. Tongariro, Mt. Ngauruhoe, and the saddle between.
Mangatepopo Hut To Emerald Lakes. 8km, 3hr. From the hut, the trail follows Mangatepopo Stream up the valley to its origin, Soda Springs, which is a 10min. marked spur from the main trail. Due to high mineral content, the water from the springs and the stream is not drinkable, even when treated. From there, the track up to the saddle, popularly known as the Devil’s Staircase, is steep, but short—clocking in at less than 1hr. At the top, strong winds blow across South Crater, a Mars-like world almost entirely devoid of plant life. A demanding side-trip leads up the great Mt. Ngauruhoe (2291m; 2hr. round-trip). Much of the climb is unmarked, but if you stay left along the rocky outcrop on the way up and find the scree chute on the way down, you shouldn’t lose your bearings.
The main track continues across South Crater’s flat expanse, then climbs another steep slope to the rim of steaming Red Crater. From here, a well-marked spur route leads gradually up to the peak of Mt. Tongariro (1967m; 1hr. round-trip). Meanwhile, the main track skirts Red Crater’s edge and climbs to the track’s highest point (1886m), where first views of the tranquil Emerald Lakes reward the effort. It’s just a quick, steep scree-run down to their scenic and—we have to say it—smelly shores.
Emerald Lakes To Ketetahi Hut Or Oturere Hut. 4.2km one-way, 1hr. At the Emerald Lakes Junction, just beyond those amazing green pools, trampers completing the Northern Circuit have a choice; they can head north to Ketetahi Hut or veer southeast to Oturere Hut. A 1hr. hike off the main Circuit via a trail that skirts the steep eastern slope of North Crater, ridge-top Ketetahi Hut offers thrilling views of Lakes Rotoaira and Taupo. Unfortunately, the Tongariro Crossing traverses its front porch—literally—so the place turns into a major thoroughfare on pleasant afternoons. The nearby Ketetahi Hot Springs are on private land and off-limits. Past the hut, the track drops steeply, the surrounding vegetation changes from tussock to podocarp forest, and eventually the Ketetahi road end appears (2hr.), marking the end of the Tongariro Crossing.
Heading toward Oturere Hut from the Emerald Lakes Junction, the track descends into a valley strewn with chunks of jagged hardened lava. The Circuit cuts a relatively flat path across the valley floor, at the end of which, on a ledge overlooking a waterfall and stream, sits Oturere Hut. This is the quieter and better hut from which to catch a breathtaking sunrise.
Oturere Hut To New Waihohonu Hut. 7.5km, 3hr. Beyond Oturere, the track winds down into sandy washes and over a series of gravel hills studded with the occasional wind-whipped treelet. After about 2hr., the path crosses a river to enter the forest, ascends through cool beeches to a scenic ridge, and descends again through forest to New Waihohonu Hut, which stares Mt. Ruapehu straight in the face. Those who reach the hut with energy to spare can drop their packs and head a bit farther along the track, straight through a junction, following signposts to the pond-like Ohinepango Springs (1hr. round-trip), where exquisitely cold water gushes straight out of the ground.
New Waihohonu Hut To Whakapapa Village. 14.3km, 5hr. Just a bit beyond New Waihohonu, a spur trail leads past the century-old Old Waihohonu Hut (30min. round-trip), which is unused and filled with decades of tramper graffiti. Stick by the stream here to follow the main track, which rises and falls slightly (but repeatedly) as it continues through stream-furrowed tussocks to the pass between Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu. If you have time, make the side-trip to the Tama Lakes: Lower Tama (10min. round-trip), a shining blue pool in an volcanic crater, and crescent-shaped Upper Tama (1hr. round-trip), which lies uphill amid wind-buffeted vistas. The final stretch forks about an 1hr. short of Whakapapa Village; an upper route travels through more rutted tussock terrain, while the equidistant, forested lower route passes the 20m Taranaki Falls.
 |
 |
 |
 |
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
Facebook
Twitter
You Tube
Foursquare
Newsletter
RSS Feed
Overview