Tortuguero Village Overview

Famed for the vast number of turtles that nest on its beaches every year, the small village of Tortuguero has managed to parlay its ecological wealth into a thriving tourism industry that has both improved the local economy and reduced the impact of poaching. Completely separated from the mainland by a maze of canals and situated on the shores of the Caribbean, Tortuguero cannot be conveniently reached from San José or any major Costa Rican transport hubs, but the effort required to get here is entirely worth it. Though the village is charming and the sunbathing quite pleasant, the real reason for visiting Tortuguero is a night-long event: the deshove (turtle nesting). From June to September, visitors to Tortuguero can witness the impressive efforts of nesting leatherback, green, and hawksbill turtles on the shores of Tortuguero village and the next-door Tortuguero National Park. For those who don’t get enough animal watching at the deshove, Tortuguero has many opportunities for boat, canoe, and kayak trips in its surrounding canals, where visitors can get practically face-to-face with caimans, monkeys, turtles, and a fantastically diverse array of birds.

Though thousands of tourists follow the turtles to Tortuguero’s beaches each year, the onslaught of cabinas and tourist information centers has not completely destroyed its small-town appeal. Many of Tortuguero’s diverse residents work in the tourism industry, and here, eco-tourism has truly taken hold; the influx of tourist money that comes from the nightly deshove has bonded the local community and helped to decrease the prevalence of turtle poaching in the the area. And, unlike neighboring Barra del Colorado, Tortuguero caters to backpackers, with many affordable accommodation, dining, and sightseeing options. Combined with its landscape, relaxed pace of life, and wealth of wildlife, Tortuguero’s accessibility to budget travelers makes it a must-see stop for those who don’t mind putting a bit of time and effort into getting there.

There are two options for transportation to Tortuguero: the pricey or the long. Flying from San José to the airstrip, a few kilometers north of Tortuguero, is the most convenient way to get to the village, but it is also the most expensive. Sansa offers flights from San José and from Juan Santa María International Airport in Alajuela. (☎2221 9414; www.flysansa.com. Approx. US$70.) Sansa also offers a boat ride from the airport near Tortuguero to Tortuguero village (US$5 per person). NatureAir departs from Tobías Bolaños Airport in Pavas. (☎2220 3054, reservations from US +1-888-535-8832. Approx. US$70.)

Aside from flying, all other routes into Tortuguero require a boat trip, as the island is separated from the mainland by a network of canals. There are two main starting points for transport into Tortuguero: Cariari, in northeastern Costa Rica, and Moín, next to Limón on the Caribbean coast. Buses leave each morning for Cariari from the Terminal de los Caribeños in San José (☎2221 2596; 2hr.; 6:30, 9am). Once in Cariari, there are two options for transport to Tortuguero.The cheapest route from Cariari is by bus to Pavona (1hr.; 6am, noon, 3pm; ¢1100). Take this bus to the end of the line at the river’s edge, where lanchas (small boats) will speed you through a beautiful swamp river to Tortuguero’s main docks (1hr.; leaving upon bus arrival; ¢1600, buy tickets on board). From Tortuguero, boats leave the main docks each day at 6am, 11:30am, and 3pm for Pavona, where the bus waits to travel the rest of the way to Cariari. Another transport option from Cariari is to take the bus to Casas Verdes/La Geest (1hr.; 4, 8am, noon, 2, 5pm), from which lanchas will also take you to Tortuguero (1hr., 1:30pm, US$10 for tourists). Rubén Bananero makes the trip from La Geest to Tortuguero (☎2709 8005, 2833 1076, or 2382 9641; 1hr; 7, 11am; US$10) and also offers a number of tours out of Tortuguero. If you are traveling by rental car, Pavona is the best option because the owners of La Geest often require prior written consent to enter their property.

The other base point for travel to Tortuguero is from the Limón suburb of Moín. Unlike transport from Cariari, the trip to Tortuguero from Moín is entirely on boat and is known for its opportunities for crocodile, bird, and monkey sightings. Lanchas depart early in the morning for Tortuguero from Moín’s small dock behind Restaurante Papá Manuel (10am and 3pm, but try to arrive at least 1hr. early to bargain prices and get a captain). The lancha trip is 3-5hr. through canals teeming with wildlife (US$30-45, depending on group size). It’s best to arrange in advance, either at the docks or through a hotel or tour company in Tortuguero. If you’re traveling alone, a tour guide may request up to US$180 for the trip; arrive early to buddy up with other travelers (see Tour Smart). The boat from Tortuguero to Moín is at 10am.

Leaving Tortuguero, there are private boats heading out at almost any hour desired, though it is important to keep in mind that boats are only allowed to travel in the area’s waterways from 6am to 6pm. Most tour companies in Tortuguero also organize return trips to Moín, Parismina, and Cariari via Pavona. To schedule a trip, talk to any of the tour companies listed; prices should run about US$40 per person to Moín, US$20 per person to Parismina, and US$10 to Pavona and on to Cariari. Make sure to book in advance to ensure an available boat, and be aware that prices may become much steeper if traveling alone. By booking in advance, you can join a group and pay a significantly lower price.

Most tour companies in Tortuguero can arrange transportation from San José or cities along the Caribbean Coast to Tortuguero. However, there are several companies throughout Costa Rica that offer pre-arranged trips to the park. Ecole Travel (☎2253 8884 or 2253 4582; www.ecoletravel.com), offers three-day, two-night tours (US$189-289 per person) including transport from Moín, tours, and lodging at Laguna Lodge. Fran and Modesto Watson’s tours on their riverboat, Francesca, are highly recommended. Their most popular trip to Tortuguero includes round-trip transportation from San José to Moín in a van and from Moín to Tortuguero in the boat. They also include two-day, one-night lodging at the Laguna Lodge, five meals, a canal boat tour, a turtle tour, a visit to Caribbean Conservation Center, and park entrance fees for US$165-195 per person. (☎2226 0986; www.tortuguerocanals.com.)

Orientation And Practical Information

The main village of Tortuguero is only about 500m long, with sandy gravel paths winding their way through the scattered buildings. The airstrip is a few kilometers north of town and is only accessible by boat. Most travelers arrive at the lancha dock, in the center of town. From the docks, with your back to the water, north is to your left and south is to your right. The docks lead on to the canals and rivers, and across the island, only about 200m from the docks, is the Caribbean Sea. The main path (Calle Principal) runs from the Caribbean Conservation Center at the far north end of the village, all the way to the ranger station at the park entrance on the southern end of town. If walking around at night, bring a flashlight; there are very few streetlights, and the paths through town are mostly dark and covered by trees.

• Tourist Office: Tortuguero boasts an impressive number of buildings along the river’s edge purporting to be “free information centers,” each of which adjoins a for-profit tour company. The information they provide can be helpful, but keep in mind that there are many options for tours and guides. Information guru Daryl Loth runs   Tortuguero Information Center (☎2709 8055 or 8392 3201), a blue-green building opposite the church 100m north of the docks, where he provides unbiased information about the island. At the Sansa Ticket Office (☎2709 8015 or 8838 6330; tortuguero_info@racsa.co.cr), you can arrange plane, bus, and boat reservations, as well as rafting, hiking, and turtle-watching excursions. Open daily 8am-noon and 1-5pm.
• Banks: There are no banks or ATMs in Tortuguero, so try to stock up on colónes before you arrive. If you are in a bind, the Super Morpho, located in the town center across from the docks, will allow cash back on credit card or debit card purchases (open daily 7am-9:30pm, MC/V). Souvenirs Pura Vida, 100m north of the main docks, exchanges US$ for a ¢5 per dollar commission. Open daily 9:30am-6pm.
• Police and Medical Services: Emergency ☎911. The police station is the blue building 75m north of the dock to the left of the C. Principal. For medical emergencies, call ☎8841 8404 or 8304 2121. For serious emergencies, the Sansa ticket office can arrange charter flights to the hospital in San José.
• Telephones: Available at Miss Junie’s, the Super Morpho in front of the docks, and in front of the ICE office, 25m south of the police station. Local calls ¢20 per min. International calls require a calling card; some phones require a calling card regardless of destination. Information ☎113.
• Internet Access: The Internet Cafe, 150m north of the main dock on the right. Offers 6 computers with sometimes-slow Internet access for ¢2000 per hr.

Accommodations

Despite its remote location, Tortuguero Village has an extensive selection of accommodations, most of them well within a budget traveler’s means. Hot-water baths and fans are standard fare on the island, and many cabinas have on-site breakfasts and hammocks available to guests. Because of the large number of tourists visiting the island, it is important to make reservations in advance if you wish to stay at a particular place. Those who aren’t too fond of bugs should remember that the buildings near the canals, where the water is slow-moving, are much more mosquito-friendly than those closer to the drier air and quicker currents of the beach. Camping is not allowed on the beach; backpackers can pitch tents for US$12 per person at the Jalova ranger station (includes park entry, accessible only by boat) or at Hotel Meriscar in Tortuguero Village (includes access to kitchen and hot-water showers).

• Cabinas Aracari (☎2709 8006). From the docks, head south on the path and take the first left after the mini shopping center; Aracari is at the end of the path. Though its prices are relatively low, the matching rows of cabinas scattered throughout the tropical garden are spotless, with tile floors, private hot-water showers, fans, and porches. Singles US$15; doubles US$30; triples US$45.
• Casa Marbella (☎2833 0827 or 2709 8011), the yellow house between the Tortuguero Information Center and Dorling’s Bakery. Though its location is convenient, it is right next to the canals, ensuring the presence of mosquitos. The beautiful views and friendly owners make it a charming and comfortable option. Each of the 4 rooms has high ceilings, soft beds, and solar-powered hot water, and visitors to the B&B must be buzzed in through the door, making it a safe place to leave your things as well. Breakfast included. Singles US$30; doubles US$35; triples US$45; rooms US$5 higher in high season.
• Miss Miriam’s (☎2709 8002), on the soccer field. Right next door to Miss Miriam’s delicious Caribbean restaurant is a 2-story house with sunny, yellow-walled rooms that have private hot-water baths, fans, emergency lights, and an ocean breeze. Across the soccer field, at Miss Miriam’s II, there are 8 slightly larger cabins with similar amenities that are just as close to the ocean but a little farther from traffic. Rooms at Miss Miriam’s US$15. Rooms at Miss Miriam’s II singles US$25; doubles US$30; triples US$35.
• Cabinas y Restaurante La Casona (☎2709 8092 or 2860 0453), on the northeast corner of the soccer field. This friendly and popular complex offers the widest variety of accommodation options in town. The best deal is the casita, a 3-bedroom apartment on the 2nd fl. of the restaurant with its own kitchen, hot-water bath, living-room with cable TV, and open-air porch dining area with stellar views of the Caribbean beach. Those traveling in smaller groups can enjoy the private rooms behind the restaurant, each of which has private hot-water bath, fans, and in some rooms, cable TV. La Casona also offers free Internet access to its guests. Reserve in advance. Singles US$20; doubles US$25; triples US$30; casita US$60 per night for max. 6 people. MC/V.
• Miss Junie’s Cabins (☎2709 8102 or 2231 6803; www.iguanaverdetours.com), 250m north of the docks on the right. Fresh-smelling rooms decked with pretty wicker furniture, hot-water baths, fans, and shuttered windows. The main attraction is Miss Junie herself, whose father was one of the original founders of Tortuguero in the 1920s. Groups often reserve the whole place in advance, so you may want to call ahead. Breakfast included. The family-run business also offers tours. Call ahead for details. US$20.
• Hotel Meriscar (☎2709 8202, 2709 8132, or 8876 2201), 100m south of Cabinas Aracari. Though it’s currently under renovation, this quiet hotel offers some of the best deals around for those who don’t mind simple concrete floors or worn-through mosquito netting. With hot-water baths, a communal kitchen, fans, and comfy hammocks just 2min. from the beach, the rooms are a steal—especially those in the outdoor cabin or 2nd fl., where the renovations are almost complete. Rooms with private bath US$7, with shared bath US$5. 2-night min.
• Cabinas Tortuguero B&B (☎2709 8114 or 8838 6330), 100m south of the main docks. Tucked down a quiet pathway just off C. Principal, this welcoming B&B offers a quiet, hammock-filled haven in a landscaped garden with its own restaurant and laundry service (US$5 per load). Rooms have hot-water showers, fans, and mosquito nets, and the owner offers 3hr. canoe trips (US$25 including park entry) and turtle nesting trips (US$15). Singles/doubles with shared bath US$12/18. Singles/doubles/triples with private bath US$25/30/35. AmEx/D/MC/V.

Food And Nightlife

Though a small town, Tortuguero has a fair amount of restaurants, most of which cater to an almost-entirely tourist clientele and are a bit pricier than those in other Costa Rican cities. To pick up your own trimmings, check out Super Morpho, directly opposite the docks (open daily 7am-9:30pm; MC/V), Super Las Tortugas, 200m north of the docks (open daily 6am-9pm; MC/V), or Super Bambu, 200m south of the docks. (☎2709 8108; open daily 7am-9pm).

• Miss Junie’s, 250m north of the docks. When it is not taken over by tourist groups, this bastion of homestyle Caribbean cooking conjures up fresh and flavorful regional specialties; for best results, stop in the day before or early in the morning to tell Miss Junie what you’d like to eat. Breakfast US$4-6. Entrees US$6-14. Open daily 7am-10pm.
• Miss Miriam’s (☎2709 8002), next door to her cabinas on the north side of the soccer field. Serves up family-style “make your own casado ” meals with coconut-simmered rice, salad, gallo pinto, french fries, and a variety of Caribbean-flavored meat options including whole fish, chicken, steak, and pork chop (¢3300 per person). Stop by in the morning for a traditional tico gallo pinto breakfast with a little kick of coconut flavoring (¢2000). Open daily 7:30am-9pm.
• Cabinas y Restaurante La Casona, on the northwest corner of the soccer field. Nestled in a thatched-roof porch in the gardens of Cabinas La Casona, this relaxing restaurant prepares a variety of tasty dishes for customers at picnic-style wooden tables. Hanging plants, reggae music, and the sweet smell of burning incense add to the intoxicating vibe. Delicious casados ¢2900, heart of palm lasagna ¢3400, and garlic-and-butter grilled shrimp with rice ¢5000. Open daily 7am-8:30pm. AmEx/D/MC/V.
• Dorling’s Bakery (☎2709 8132), 100m north of the docks. Has reasonably priced options for every meal. Besides the tasty cakes and pastries (¢600), Miss Dorling also offers made-to-order pizza (¢3000-6000) and a variety of meat and vegetable entrees (¢3000-4000). The backyard has small tables overlooking the canal, where guests can enjoy a cup of coffee or refreshing batidos (¢600-1200). Open daily 5am-midnight, but may close at 8pm if business is slow.
• Buddha Bar (☎2709 8084), 50m north of docks. Though its prices are a bit higher than other restaurants in town, the lounge-like atmosphere, extensive riverside terrace, and pleasant ambient music bring a fair-sized crowd to the chilled-out Buddha Bar. Guests can relax on couches in the night-club-style interior or enjoy their meal al fresco at the dock-side tables along the river. Batidos ¢800-1800, pizza ¢4000-8000, salads ¢2800-3000, crepes ¢3200-4000. Open daily 11am-11pm. AmEx/D/MC/V.
• Soda Caribbean Place (☎2709 8209), 50m north of Restaurante La Casona behind the Caribbean Conservation Corporation display boards. Hungry travelers looking to load up on cheap, filling traditional eats can enjoy rice and beans with every meal at this small, quiet eatery. Gallo pinto ¢1500-2200, casados ¢2000-2500, Caribbean-style rice and beans dishes ¢2200-2700. Open daily 7am-8:30pm.

Sights

Caribbean Conservation Corporation Natural History Visitor ​Center. Before going to see the turtles, check out the non-profit Caribbean Conservation Corporation Natural History Visitor Center (CCC). Founded by Archie Carr, who later prompted the creation of Tortuguero National Park, the CCC specializes in research and education on sea turtles. The center has videos, exhibits, and information on the decimation of the sea turtle population and the efforts taken by conservationists to save the endangered animals. In the 50 years since its inception, the CCC has tagged over 50,000 turtles, making it the world’s largest green turtle tagging program of its kind. Visitors can “adopt” a turtle with a US$25 donation and, in turn, receive an adoption certificate, photograph, turtle fact sheet, and information about the tagged turtle when it is found. Those who want to get up close and personal with the turtles can sign up for the center’s research internship positions, where interns hole up in research facilities and aid the center’s scientists in their work with the turtles. Interns can pick which the type of turtle they want to research. Prices for internships run US$1400-2700 for 1-3 week programs. The center’s admission fee is used to further the efforts of the CCC. (At the north end of town. Head north on the main path for about 200m, where you will see the center’s signs; turn right and follow the path a few hundred meters further until you reach the center. ☎2709 8091; www.cccturtle.org. Open M-Sa 10am-noon and 2-5:30pm, Su 2-5:30pm. ¢400. MC/V.)