Toruń Overview

Long known as “beautiful red Toruń” (pop. 210,000) for its impressive brick-and-stone architecture, this historic university town is the birthplace of Mikołaj Kopernik, better known as Copernicus. Five-hundred-year-old churches and the ruins of the local Teutonic castle dominate the skyline, while entertainers and pedestrians alike dominate the cobblestone pathways of Old Town.

Trains leave from Toruń Główny, Kujawska 1 (☎056 94 36; open M-F 7am-5pm; Sa-Su 7am-2pm) for: Gdansk (3hr., 9 per day, 38zł); Łódź (3hr., 9 per day, 21-34zł); Poznań (21/2hr., 9 per day, 20-33zł); Warsaw (23/4hr., 8 per day, 40zł). Buses leave from Dworzec PKS, Dąbrowskiego 26 (☎056 655 5333; open 4am-midnight) for Gdansk (3hr., 2 per day, 34zł), Łódź (3hr., 13 per day, 27zł) and Warsaw (4hr., 6 per day, 32zł). Polski Express (☎228 445 555) runs buses from the Ruch kiosk north of pl. Teatralny to Łódź (3hr., 1 per day, 37/22zł) and Warsaw (3hr., 9 per day, 55/30zł). Most sights are in Rynek Staromiejski (Old Town Square). To get to there from the train station, take bus #22 or 27 across the Wisła River to plac Rapackiego. Head through the park, river on your right, to find the square. The tourist office , Rynek Staromiejski 25, has free maps. (☎056 621 0931; www.it.torun.pl. Open May-Aug. M and Sa 9am-4pm, Tu-F 9am-6pm, Su 9am-1pm; Sept.-Apr. M and Sa 9am-4pm, Tu-F 9am-6pm.) Postal Code: 87100.

Accommodations

 There are a number of reasonably priced accommodations in the center, but they fill up fast, so call ahead. Inexpensive hotels are often the best-situated option, but deal-seekers can check the tourist office for far-flung rooms in university dorms in July and August. (Singles 45zł; doubles 60zł.)   Orange Hostel , ul. Prosta 1, gets everything right, from its central location to laundry facilities that even include—amazingly—a dryer. (☎056 652 0033; www.hostelorange.pl. Kitchen. Breakfast included 7am-noon. Free laundry. Free Internet. Reception 24hr. Dorms 30zł; singles 50zł; doubles 80zł; triples 120zł.) It’s a 20min. hike from town, but Attic Hostel , ul. gen. Chłopickiego 4, offers beds in spacious, bright rooms. (☎056 659 8517; www.atticityhostel.noclegiw.pl. Breakfast included. Free Internet. Reception 7am-10pm. May-Aug. large dorms 30zł; singles 70zł; doubles 100zł; triples 120zł; quads 155zł. Sept.-Apr. 25/50/80/105/140zł. MC/V.)

Food

• Manekin, Rynek Staromiejski 16 (☎056 652 2885). With an interior right out of the Wild Wild West, the popular Manekin serves massive yet artfully sweet and savory nalesniki (pancakes) for 4-13zł. The curry chicken and cheese (8.50zł) is a favorite. Open M-Th and Su 10am-11pm, F-Sa 10am-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.
• Cafe Relaks, Szewska 4. A cross between an ice cream parlour and an intimate cafe serves up cheap pierogi (8-14zł), but the gigantic sundaes (7-15zł) are the real reason people come here. Open daily 10am-8pm. Cash only.
• The Kopernik Factory , Żeglarska 24 (☎056 621 0337). This shop sells the most collectible dessert in town: gingerbread effigies of Polish kings, saints, and astronomers from 0.70zł for a small taste to 30zł for top-of-the-line historical figures. Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm. MC/V.

Sights 

Stare Miasto (Old Town) . On the right bank of the Wisła River, Stare Miasto was constructed by the Teutonic Knights in the 13th century. Dom Kopernika, the probable birthplace of Copernicus, has been restored and showcases artifacts pertaining to the astronomer. (Kopernika 15/17. ☎056 622 7038, ext.13. Open May-Sept. Tu-Su 10am-6pm, Oct.-Apr. Tu-Su 10am-4pm. 10zł students, 7zł. English-language captions available. Sound-and-light show 10/7zł. Both 18/12zł.)

Ratusz (Town Hall) . The 14th-century town hall that dominates Rynek Staromiejski is a fine example of monumental burgher architecture. ( ☎056 622 7038. Museum open daily May-Sept. 10am-8pm, Oct.-Mar. 10am-4pm, Apr. 10am-6pm. 10zł, students 6zł, Su free. Tower open May-Sept. Daily 10am-8pm. 10/6zł.)

Teutonic Knights’ Castle. A revolt in 1454 led to the destruction of the castle, but its ruins, on ul. Przedzamcze, are still standing. The remnants, despite the centuries, are an impressive sight. (☎056 622 7039. Open daily 9am-8pm. Free.)

Krzywá Wieżą (Leaning Tower) . The 15m tower was built in 1271 by a Teutonic Knight as punishment for breaking his order’s rule of celibacy. The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist (Bazylika Katedralna pw. św. Janów), at the corner of ul. Zeglarska and św. Jana, is among the most impressive of churches in the area. (ul. Krzywá Wieżą 17. At the corner of Zeglarska and Sw. Jana. Open Apr.-Oct. M-Sa 9am-5:30pm, Su 2-5:30pm. 3zł, students 2zł. Tower 6/4zł.)

Church Of The Virgin Mary (Kościół Św. Marii) . Just across the Rynek Staromiejski are the stained-glass windows and intricate altars of the Church of the Virgin Mary. (ul. Panny Marii. Open M-Sa 8am-5pm. Audio tour 2zł.)

Nightlife

• Piwnica pod Aniołami (Cellar Beneath the Angels), Rynek Staromiejski 1 (☎056 658 5482). Dance the night away at this club, an underground haven for Torun’s alternative crowd with its vaulted ceilings and crimson-hued stone walls. Beer 3.50-5zł. Open M-F 10am-1am, Sa-Su 10am-4am. Cash only.
• Niebo, Rynek Staromiejski 1 (☎056 621 0327). Its name translates to “heaven,” but expect more than halos: instead, find an intimate Gothic cellar that boasts jazz and cabaret. Open M-Th and Su noon-midnight, F-Sa noon-2am.
• Club Jazz God, Rabianska 17 (☎056 65 22 13 08; www.jazzgod.torun.com.pl). It lives up to its name with free live jazz Su 10pm; the rest of the week, students fill scattered seats for lively conversation and thunderous reggae, rock, and Polish pop starting around 8:30pm. Open M-Th and Su 5pm-2am, F-Sa 5pm-4am.