Troyes Overview

Troyes (trwah; pop. 60,900) is a stylish city that prides itself on living the good life. Delicious cuisine combined with massive amounts of bubbly make this city a gastronomic delight, while noteworthy museums entertain between meals. Despite its superficial sheen, the city boasts an extensive intellectual history: it was here that Chrétien de Troyes wrote Parsifal, Jewish scholar Rashi translated the Bible and the Talmud, and a local shoemaker’s son grew up to become Pope Urban IV. Today, Troyes benefits from a well-preserved vieille ville and a lively urban atmosphere—all contained within a city appropriately shaped like a bouchon de champagne (champagne cork).

Trains: At the intersection of av. Maréchal Joffre and rue du Ravelin (☎08 36 35 35 35). Ticket office open M-Sa 5:40am-8:40pm, Su 6:30am-8:40pm. Info office open M-Sa 9:30am-6:20pm. To Mulhouse (3-3½hr.; M-F 8 per day, Sa-Su 7 per day; €38), Lyon (4-5hr.; M-F 12 per day, Sa-Su 9 per day; €44, TGV via Paris €73-90), and TGV to Paris (1hr.; M-F 16 per day, Sa-Su 13 per day; €22).
Buses: Turn left out of the train station and enter through the door to your left in the next building, which is labeled “gare routière.” SDTM TransChampagne (☎03 25 71 28 42) runs to Reims (2hr., M-Sa 2 per day, €22).
Public Transportation: TCAT buses (☎03 25 70 49 00; www.tcat.fr), in front of Les Halles market. Open M-F 8am-12:45pm and 1:30-7pm, Sa 8am-12:45pm and 1:30-6:30pm. Service every 12-23min. Purchase tickets on bus (€1.30, 3 for €3.30); Mini Turbo tickets available at the office or in tabacs (12 for €11).
Taxis: Taxis Troyens (☎03 25 78 30 30), across from the bus and train stations, in front of the Grand Hôtel. Open M-Th and Su 4am-1am, F-Sa 24hr.
Car Rental: Budget, 10 rue Voltaire (☎03 25 73 27 37). €52 per day with 250km included; €650 or credit-card deposit. 21+. Open M-F 8am-noon and 2-7pm, Sa 8:30am-noon and 2-6:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Bike Rental: Available at Les Comtes de Champagne (see Accommodations, ). €8 per ½-day, €12 per day, €20 per 2 days, €60 per week; €250 or credit-card deposit. Book 1 day in advance. Discount for hotel guests. AmEx/MC/V.

Orientation And Practical Information

The train station is just three blocks from the edge of the vieille ville. The main tourist office is to the right of the train station’s exit, on the corner of bd. Carnot; a branch office is on rue Mignard, facing the St-Jean church.

Tourist Office: 16 bd. Carnot (☎03 25 82 62 70; www.ot-troyes.fr) and on rue Mignard (☎03 25 73 36 88). Free city maps, English brochures (€0.50), and free accommodations service with 1st night’s deposit (MC/V). Bd. Carnot branch open Apr.-Oct. M-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 2-6:30pm; Nov.-Mar. M-Sa 9am-12:30pm, Su 10am-1pm. Rue Mignard branch open daily from July to mid-Sept. 10am-7pm; from mid-Sept. to Oct. and Apr.-June M-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 2-6:30pm, Su 10am-noon and 2-5pm.
Tours: Available from the tourist office. Audio tours €5.50, students and seniors €3. Themed tours from the Mignard tourist office; check weekly listing. From July to mid-Sept. English and French; from mid-Sept. to June French only. €5.50, students €3. Horse-drawn carriage tour every 45min. July-Aug. Sa 10:15-11:45am and 3-6:45pm; €7, students and seniors €5. The Pass’Troyes (€12) includes champagne and chocolate tastings, an audio or personal tour, and admission to major sights.
Currency Exchange: BNP Paribas branches at 53 rue du Général de Gaulle and 58 rue Émile Zola. Open M-F 8:45am-noon and 1:30-5:30pm, Sa 8:45am-noon. SNVB banks at 5-7 rue Raymond Poincaré and 39 rue Paul Dubois. Open M-F 8:30am-noon and 1:15-5:55pm, Sa 9am-12:15pm. ATMs can be found in the centre-ville, particularly around the tourist office and pl. Alexandre Israël.
Laundromat: Laverie St-Nizier, 107 rue du Révérend Père Lafra (☎06 14 66 11 29), near the cathedral. Wash €3.50 per 7kg, dry €0.50 per 6min. Open daily 24hr.
Police: Near the Hôtel de Ville (☎03 25 42 34 21).
Pharmacy: Pharmacie de garde posted in window of rue Mignard tourist office.
Hospital: 101 av. Anatole France (☎03 25 49 49 49).
Internet Access: Le Point Carré, 27 rue Raymond Poincaré (☎03 25 81 63 44). Look for the sign that reads “Cyber Café.” €0.10 per min., €2 per hr. Free Wi-Fi with purchase of a drink. Ask about the 10% student discount. Open M-W 10:30am-midnight, Th-Sa 10:30am-1:30am, Su 2pm-midnight. Viardin Micro, 10 rue Viardin. €2 per hr. Open M 2-7pm, Tu-Sa 9:30am-noon and 2-7pm. MC/V.
Post Office: 38 rue Louis Ulbach (☎03 25 43 77 77). Open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 9am-12:30pm. Currency exchange. Branch office at 2 pl. du Général Patton (☎03 25 45 29 00), 1 block to the right down bd. Carnot from the train station. Open M-F 9am-noon and 2:30-6pm, Sa 9am-noon. Postal Code: 10000.

Accommodations And Camping

Les Comtes de Champagne, 56 rue de la Monnaie (☎03 25 73 11 70; www.comtesdechampagne.com). This 16th-century mansion has a courtyard and themed rooms decorated with stylish old magazine ads. All but the least expensive rooms have TVs, toilets, and phones. Breakfast €6.50. Wi-Fi in the lobby. Reception 7am-10pm. Reservations recommended. Singles €27-32; doubles from €33; triples from €61; quads from €67; rooms with kitchenette €66-87. Some rooms fit 5-6; extra bed €6. AmEx/MC/V.
Hôtel Arlequin, 50 rue de Turenne (☎03 25 83 12 70; www.hotelarlequin.com). Welcoming home away from home with color-coordinated rooms, A/C, large windows, and high ceilings. Suites with double rooms attached available for families. Unbeatable suites for 3+ guests. Breakfast €7.50-8.50. Wi-Fi. Reception M-Sa 8am-12:30pm and 2-10pm, Su 8am-12:30pm and 6:30-10pm. Reservations recommended 1 week in advance, especially in summer. Singles and doubles with shower €41, with bath €55-58; triples with shower or bath €72; quads €82. Extra bed €5.50. AmEx/MC/V.
Camping Municipal de Troyes, 7 rue Salengro (☎03 25 81 02 64; www.troyescamping.net), on N77, 2km from town. Take bus #1 (dir.: Pont Ste-Marie) to this well-stocked 3-star site. Includes showers, toilets, TV, restaurant, and laundry as well as a trampoline and playground. Reception 9am-10pm. Open from Apr. to mid-Oct. €4.40 per adult, children €3.20; €6-7 per tent; €6-7 per car. MC/V.
Auberge de Jeunesse (HI), 10430 chemin Ste-Scholastique (☎03 25 82 00 65; www.fuaj.org/aj/troyes). Take local bus #8 from Les Halles (dir.: Château de Rosièrest) to Liberté. Following the signs, continue down rue de la Liberté. Take a left on rue Jules Ferry and a right on chemin Ste-Scholastique. This spacious converted abbey, open year-round and clean as a whistle, holds 104 beds. The catch is that it’s 5km from the center of town, and buses can be confusing and inconsistent. Bus #8 only runs to the necessary Liberté stop at certain times of the day, so be sure to ask your bus driver before hopping on board, or you could end up hiking a long distance. Breakfast €3.50. Reception 8am-9pm. 5- and 6-bed dorms with shower €14. MC/V.

Food

The area from rue Champeaux south to rue Émile Zola, known as the quartier Saint-Jean, is the best place to enjoy a scenic and savory meal. Cafes, restaurants, brasseries, and crêperies line these pedestrian streets just west of pl. Alexandre Israël, which also is the center of troyenne nightlife. A walk down rue du Général Saussier or rue de Turenne leads to the smaller quartier Vauluisant, which boasts its own pedestrian avenue with delightful dining options. Inexpensive kebab joints line the less attractive rue du Général de Gaulle and rue de la Cité.

Les Halles, an indoor market on the corner of rue de la République and rue du Général de Gaulle, offers fresh produce, meats, and baked goods from the Aube region; its outdoor flea market offers decently priced clothing. Try the intense andouillette de Troyes (tripe sausage) or the rich and creamy fromage de Troyes. (Open M-Th 8am-12:45pm and 3:30-7pm, F-Sa 7am-7pm, Su 9am-12:30pm. Many stands accept MC/V.) Grab groceries at the Monoprix supermarket, upstairs at 71 rue Émile Zola (☎03 25 73 10 78; open M-Sa 8:30am-8pm) and picnic in pl. de la Libération, along the bassin de la Préfecture.

Aux Crieurs de Vin, 4-6 pl. Jean Jaurès (☎03 25 40 01 01). As the name suggests, this eatery revolves around Troyes’s favorite spirit, from the winery and tasting bar up front to the cellar-like dining area decorated with drinking advertisements. Waiters bring a chalkboard menu featuring a small selection of meats and cheeses (€5-10), plats (€9-13), and entrées (€5.50-18). Meal with a glass of wine €13. 2 champagne samples free with purchase of the Pass’Troyes at the tourist office. Open Tu-Sa noon-2pm and 7:30-10pm. Bar open Tu-Sa 11am-midnight. MC/V.
La Clef de Voûte, 33-35 rue du Général Saussier (☎03 25 73 72 07). Though it’s decorated with ski posters and snowshoes, this rustic restaurant offers a warm and inviting atmosphere. Cheese lovers will delight in the selection of gratins and fondues (€15-19); sausage fans should order the Andouillette AAAAA (€15), approved by the Association Amicale des Amateurs d’Andouillettes Authentiques. Those interested in lighter fare should try one of the overflowing salads (€7-15). Open M 7:30-10pm, Tu-Th noon-2pm and 7:30-10pm, F-Sa noon-2pm and 7:30-10:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Restaurant Soleil de l’Inde, 33 rue de la Cité (☎03 25 80 75 71). Popular with troyenne youth, this stylish eatery offers an extensive Indian and Pakistani selection. The formule rapide (€9) includes naan, a meat dish, and a dessert. Plentiful vegetarian plat options (€7). Open Tu-Su noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm. MC/V.
Le Détective Nippon, 21 rue de la Cité (☎03 25 46 19 48). Though its decorations—painted fans and paper lanterns—are painfully predictable, the food at this Japanese restaurant provides a worthwhile change from troyenne fare. For hungry scholars, a filling student menu (€7) is offered M-F, except F dinner. Menus €9-25. Open M-Th noon-2pm and 7-10pm, F noon-2pm and 7-10:30pm, Sa 7-10:30pm. MC/V.

Sights

Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-Et-Saint-Paul. The sheer size of this Gothic cathedral is only slightly less stunning than its intricate 13th- to 19th-century stained-glass designs, which illustrate everything from the “Parable of Wise and Foolish Virgins” to scenes from the life of Christ. A long history of fires and other disasters has claimed much of the original architecture, making the surviving windows all the more remarkable. Less conspicuous but equally impressive is the cathedral’s 18th-century organ, which was declared one of France’s most prestigious instruments in 1974 and is now frequently played at concerts. Call the church for concert listings. (Pl. St-Pierre, down rue de la Cité. Enter via the small entrance to the right of the main doors. ☎03 25 76 98 18. Open M-Sa 10am-1pm and 2-6pm, Su 10am-noon and 2-5pm. Treasury open July-Aug. Tu-Sa 10am-noon and 3-5pm, Su 3-5pm. Mass Su 10:30am. Treasury tours in French. Info cards available in English and German. Free.)

Musée D’Art Moderne. This well-designed museum is Troyes’s cultural centerpiece, featuring over 2000 works of French art from 1850-1950, including pieces by Degas, Picasso, Rodin, and Seurat. A former bishop’s palace, the building and its grounds are almost as much of an attraction as the art itself, and the open courtyards are ideal for a picnic. The museum contains a diverse collection of statues, masks, and paintings from Africa and Oceania—works that inspired many of their European counterparts. (Pl. St-Pierre. ☎03 25 76 26 80. Open Tu-Su 10am-1pm and 2-6pm. €5, students and under 18 free; 1st Su of month free.)

Maison De L’Outil Et De La Pensée Ouvrière. This collection of over 8000 tools and architectural models from the 18th and 19th centuries, contained in a delightful 16th-century Renaissance-style house, is the largest such display in the world. Elaborately arranged in bizarre geometric patterns, the instruments for working with wood, iron, leather, and stone will impress even those without an interest in “the tools and thoughts of the worker.” (7 rue de la Trinité. ☎03 25 73 28 26; www.maison-de-l-outil.com. Open daily 10am-6pm. €6.50, students under 25 free, families €16. English and German guidebooks available. MC/V over €13.)

Église Sainte-Madeleine. This 12th-century structure boasts an intricate display of stained glass, which includes a complete representation of Christ’s family tree. Yet the real sight to see is the flamboyant Gothic jubé (gallery) made of carved stone, which sits in the middle of the church and divides the nave from the choir. Sift through your pockets for spare change; for €0.50, the attendant will shine a spotlight on the jubé to display spectacular shadow effects. Well-labeled information panels in English, French, and German offer fascinating trivia about the architecture. (Rue de la Madeleine. ☎03 25 73 82 90. Open M-Sa 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm, Su 2-5:30pm.)

Basilique Saint-Urbain. At night, this basilica’s spear-like spires stand illuminated, but its flying buttresses are best seen in daylight. When Jacques Pantaléon became Pope Urban IV, he commissioned the Gothic structure to be built at the site of his father’s old cobbler shop. The original 13th-century choir and transept remain, while stained-glass windows depicting Pantaléon’s childhood were added as late as the 19th century. The choir has held Urban IV’s remains since 1935. (Pl. Vernier, off rue Georges Clemenceau. ☎03 25 73 13 37. Open M-Sa 9:30am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm, Su 2-5:30pm. Su mass 9:30, 10:30, 11am, 6pm.)

Other Sights. At the city’s second largest museum, the Musée Saint-Loup, stuffed vultures lurk above a forest of taxidermal animals, the basement houses a geology exhibit, and portraits of old French royalty rest in luxury on the top floors. (Rue de la Cité. ☎03 25 76 21 68; www.ville-troyes.fr. Open Tu-Su 9am-noon and 1-5pm. €4, students and under 18 free.) A small building across from the Cathédrale St-Pierre-et-St-Paul houses both the Musée di Marco and its associated cafe. The museum features works by Angelo di Marco, who became famous for his hyper-realistic, pulp style of comic-book illustrations. The gallery features only a sampling of his drawings, but a movie about his life (in French only) showcases other pieces. (Pl. de la Cathédrale. ☎03 25 40 18 27; www.museedimarco.com. Open Apr.-Sept. Tu-Su 10:30am-6:30pm; Oct.-Mar. W-Su 10:30am-6:30pm. €5, groups of 10 or more €4 each.) The Musée Vauluisant, which houses both the Musée d’Art Troyen and the Musée de la Bonneterie, displays a collection of 16th- to 17th-century sculptures from the Troyes school and a 19th-century artisan’s textile workshop. With wood floors and winding stone stairwells, the building and the herb garden in the courtyard are as worthy of attention as the art. (4 rue de Vauluisant. ☎03 25 73 05 85. Open Tu-Su 9am-noon and 1-5pm. €3, students and under 18 free.)

Nightlife

Troyes may be small, but even the most jaded locals admit that it’s a city qui bouge bien (a city that’s happening). The most concentrated swath of nightlife is around rue Champeaux and rue Molé off pl. Alexandre Israël.

Le Point Carré, 27 rue Raymond Poincaré (☎03 25 81 63 44). Part bar, part cybercafe, this spot caters to a crowd of young, laid-back regulars. Decorated with American film stills and lit with red lanterns at night, the bar is funky yet relaxed. Customers sometimes use the piano and acoustic guitar for sporadic jam sessions. Open M-W 10:30am-midnight, Th-Sa 10:30am-1:30am, Su 2pm-midnight. MC/V.
Le Bougnat des Pouilles, 29 rue Paillot de Montabert (☎03 25 73 59 85), off rue Champeaux. Festive during the school year and relaxed during vacations, this bar welcomes a varied crowd. Enjoy a drink on the outdoor terrace or in the dark, leopard-print-furnished interior. Monthly concerts and themed nights; occasional displays of local artwork. Beer from €3. Mixed drinks from €5. Open M-Sa 5pm-3am. MC/V.

Festivals

Troyes’s cultural center, the Maison du Boulanger, 42 rue Paillot de Montabert, has information on festivals, exhibits, and concerts. (☎03 25 43 55 00. Open M-F 9am-noon and 2-6pm, Sa 10am-noon and 2-5pm.)

Ville en Musique (☎03 25 43 55 00), from mid-June to mid-Aug. A series of free summer performances that range from modern French rock to classical organ tunes. Stop by the cultural center for more info.
Troyes at Night, July-Aug. daily; Sept. and Apr.-June F-Sa. A free sound-and-light spectacle guides visitors through the centre-ville streets at 10pm.
Festival des Nuits de Champagne (☎03 25 72 11 65, reservations 40 02 03; www.nuitsdechampagne.com), a weekend of concerts in Oct. Check website for more info.

Outdoor Activities

Over 12,500 acres of freshwater lakes dot the region around Troyes. The sparkling Lake Orient welcomes sunbathers, swimmers, and windsurfers, while the wilder waters of Lake Temple are reserved for fishing and birdwatching. Those in search of adventure might favor Lake Amance, which is populated by speedboats and water-skiers. The Comité Départemental du Tourisme de l’Aube, 34 quai Dampierre, offers free brochures on local and regional outdoor activities as well as campsites and cheap camp-style lodgings. (☎03 25 42 50 00. Open M-F 9:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-6pm.) The tourist office has bus schedules for the Troyes-Grands Lacs routes. In July and August, the Courriers de l’Aube takes travelers to Lake Orient three times per day. (☎03 25 71 28 40. €5.60.) There is also a 42km bike path between Troyes and Port Dienville, along Lake Amance. In Dienville, camping is available at Camping du Tertre (☎03 25 92 26 50).