Turku (Åbo) Overview

Finland’s oldest city, Turku (pop. 175,000), has grown weatherbeaten with the passing of 775 years. It was the focal point of Swedish and Russian power struggles, the seat of Finnish governance until 1812, and then the victim of the worst fire in Scandinavian history in 1827. Yet Turku lives on as a cultural and academic center that remains one of the most important in Finland.

Transportation.  Trains run to and from Helsinki (2hr., 1 per hr., €24.60-32) and Tampere (2hr., 1 per 1-2hr., €22 or €24.30). Eurorail pass gets free trains except for Pendolino trains. Viking Line, Eenkinkatu 15 (☎3582 33311), sails to Stockholm, SWE (9hr., 2 per day, about €32). Many discounts available—see Viking Line office. AmEx/MC/V. Tallinksilja Line ferries also sail to Stockholm (9hr., daily 8am and 8:15pm, around €20; MC/V). To get to the ferry terminal, catch bus #1 from the Kauppatori (€2.50) or walk to the end of Linnankatu, past the castle. Buses run from the bus station to Rauma (1.5 hr., 1-2 per hour, €15-18) and Pori (3hr., 1 every 2 hr., €22-26). A day pass costs €5.50.

Orientation And Practical Information. The tourist office, Aurakatu 4, sells the TurkuCard (24hr. €21, 48hr. €28), which provides entry to the city’s museums and free bus rides. (☎262 7444; www.turkutouring.fi. Open M-F 8:30am-6pm, Sa-Su 9am-4pm. AmEx/MC/V.) Cybercafes are at Hämeenkatu 12 and Mariankatu 2. (Open M-F 9am-9pm, Sa-Su 10am-9pm. €0.04 per min. Coins only.) Free Internet is at the public library, located at Linnenkatu 2. (☎262 3611. Open 10am-8pm M-Th, F 10am-6pm, Sa 10am-3pm.) Postal Code: 20100.

Accommodations And Food. To get to   Hostel Turku (HI) , Linnankatu 39, from the station, go west on Ratapihankatu, turn left on Puistokatu, and go right at the river and look for the blue sign. (☎02 262 7680; www.turku.fi/hostelturku. Bike rental available. Breakfast €5.20. Linens €4.70. Laundry €2 per hr. Internet €1 per 20min. Reception 6-10am and 3pm-midnight. Check-in 3-9pm. Dorms curfew 2am. Reserve ahead. Dorms €16; singles €36; doubles €42; quads €65. €2.50 HI discount, €1.50 ISIC discount. MC/V.) Interpoint Hostel  , Ursininkatu 15A, at Puutarhakatu, has peaceful, well-kept rooms. (☎02 250 1910; www.kolumbus.fi/birgitta/turku. Reception 8am-9pm, but 24hr. entrance with key. Singles €45; doubles €65; triples €90. Cash only.)

Produce fills the outdoor Kauppatori (open in summer M-F 7am-6pm, Sa until noon; in winter M-F 7am-5pm) and brown brick Kauppahalli (open M-F 7am-5:30pm, Sa 7am-3pm) on Eerikinkatu. Sokos, next to the Kauppatori, has a supermarket (Open M-F 9am-9pm, Sa 9am-6pm. MC/V.) Cheap eats line Humalistonkatu. Locals pack Kerttu , Itäinen Rantakatu 61, is a vegetarian boat-restaurant. €6 regular entree, €8.50 large. (Walk 20min. along the river, or take bus #3, 14, 15, or 55 from the Kauppatori. ☎02 535 3018; www.kasviskeidas.com. Open M-F 11am-4pm. MC/V.)

Sights. At   Aboa Vetus and Ars Nova Museums over a decade ago, during construction on a museum in a tobacco tycoon’s riverside mansion, workers discovered a medieval city block beneath the house. Today, visitors can stroll through the ruins and view the accompanying modern art collection. (Itäinen Rantakatu 4-6. ☎02 250 0552; www.aboavetusarsnova.fi. Open Apr.-Aug. daily 11am-7pm; Sept.-Mar. Tu-Su 11am-7pm. Tours July-Aug. daily 10, 11:30am. €8, students €7. AmEx/MC/V.) The Turku Cathedral is the spiritual center of Finland’s Lutheran Church. Finnish public radio has broadcast the cathedral’s noontime bells since 1944. (Tuomiokirkkotori 20. ☎02 261 7100; www.turunseurakunnat.fi. Open daily from mid-Apr. to mid-Sept. 9am-8pm; from mid-Sept. to mid-Apr. 9am-7pm. Concerts June-Aug. Tu 8pm and W 2pm. English services Su 4pm. Free.) The Sibelius Museum presents the life of Finland’s most famous composer, Jean Sibelius. (Piispankatu 17. ☎02 215 4494; www.sibeliusmuseum.abo.fi. Open Tu and Th-Su 11am-4pm, W 6-8pm. €3, students €1. 1hr. concerts in summer, fall, and spring W 7pm. Concerts in fall and spring €7/3, in summer included in admission. MC/V.) The 700-year-old Turun Linna (Turku Castle) has a historical museum with medieval artifacts. (Linnankatu 80. Catch bus #1 (€2) from Market Sq. or walk to the end of Linnankatu. ☎02 262 0322. Open from mid-Apr. to mid-Sept. daily 10am-6pm; from mid-Jan. to mid.Apr. and from mid-Sept. to late Nov. Tu and Th-F 10am-3pm and W, Sa, and Su 10am-6pm, and late Nov-Dec. Tu-F 10am-3pm and Sa 10am-5pm. €7, students €3.50. MC/V.)

Festivals And Nightlife. The end of June brings the Medieval Market Festival to town, while power chords rock Ruissalo Island at July’s Ruisrock festival (www.ruisrock.fi). The end of July brings the Down By The Laituri music festival on the river and in August, the annual Turku Music Festival (www.turkumusicfestival.fi) draws a range of artists to venues throughout the city. Pull up a stool at Pub Uusi Apteekki, Kaskenkatu 1, and have a beer at this old apothecary. (☎02 250 2595; www.uusiapteekki.fi. Open M-Th and Su 10am-2am and F-Sa 10am-3am. 20+. MC/V.) Finland’s largest brewery restaurant, Koulu, Eerikinkatu 18, is a former girls’ school and offers its own beers. (☎02 274 5757; www.panimoravintolakoulu.fi. Beer or cider about €5. F-Sa 22+. Open M-Th and Su 10am-2am, F-Sa 10am-3am. AmEx/MC/V.)

Rauma

Buses run to Rauma from Turku (1.5hr., 1-2 per hr., €15-18). To reach the tourist office, Valtakatu 2, follow the street by the supermarket. (☎8378 7731; www.visitrauma.fi. Tourist office may be moving, check website for updated information.) All museums in Vahna Rauma can be seen with a combo ticket (€6; individual museums €3).

Farther north on the Baltic Coast, Rauma (pop. 42,500) is known for the well-preserved wooden buildings that make up the Old Town, the first UNESCO World Heritage Site in Finland. Just north of the outer edge of the old city, the Raumanjoki river, lies the frescoed Church of the Holy Cross. Vahna Rauma, as the old town is called, also offers several house museums. Besides its old town, Rauma is best known for its gorgeous archipelago. Many of the islands are great for hiking. Try the trails on Kuuskajaskari, a former fortress. Ferries leave from the marina to the northwest of the city. (Ferries 30min., in summer 3 per day, €8. MC/V.) Late August brings the Blue Sea Film Festival (www.blueseafilmfestival.com), which shows the best domestic films of the year. If you’re interested in a great meal, Ravintola Villa Tallbo , Petäjäksentie 178, has a €14 buffet lunch which has an incredible spread, including a variety of fish (☎02 822 0733).

Pori

Trains go to Helsinki (3.5hr., 6 per day, €38.60) and Tampere (1.5hr., 6 per day, around €15). Buses run to Tampere (2hr., 12 per day, €17), Turku (2-2.5hr., 1-2 per hour, €24), and Rauma (1hr., 1 per hr., €11.20). The tourist office, Yrjönkatu 17, offers 15min. of free Internet. The tourist office helps book rooms during festival time. (☎02 621 7900; www.maisa.fi. Open from June to mid-Aug. M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 10am-3pm; from mid-Aug. to May M-F 9am-4:30pm.)

Each July, crowds mob elegant Pori (pop. 76,000) for the renowned Pori Jazz Festival in mid-July. (☎02 626 2200; www.porijazz.fi. Tickets from €10; some concerts free. AmEx/MC/V.) The recently relocated Finnish Rock Festival (www.rmj.fi; late June) throws the biggest midsummer party in Finland. Book hotels in advance. For those seeking culture, check out the modern art exhibits of the Pori Art Museum, on the corner of Etelärantakatu and Raatihuonekatu. (☎02 621 1080; www.poriartmuseum.fi. Open Tu and Th-Su 11am-6pm, W 11am-8pm. Summer €5, students €2.50; in winter €3.50/1.50. MC/V.) Pori’s best known attraction is located in a graveyard west of the town center on Maantiekatu. The Juselius Mausoleum is adorned with frescoes by native Akseli Gallén-Kallela. (☎02 623 8746. Open May-Aug. daily noon-3pm. Free.) Bus #32 (30min. €4.50) leads northwest to Yyteri Beach, home to windsurfers and those just relaxing.