Turrialba Overview

Both the ticos and the adventurous Americans who visit Turrialba love its down-to-earth feel, as well as its location amid world-class rivers and stunning mountains. Nearby Ríos Reventazón and Pacuare have brought the town international fame; both are packed with Class III-V rapids and some of the world’s best river runs. Whitewater rafters and kayakers of all abilities splash through during the rainy season, while other travelers stay here on their way to Costa Rica’s most significant archaeological site, Monumento Nacional Guayabo. But those uninterested in adventure tours should consider paying Turrialba a visit. It retains a small-town feel while offering the services of a city. During the day, locals hang out in the attractive parque central; at night, they fill the bars and restaurants. Due to Costa Rica’s economic development projects, an increasing number of rivers may soon be dammed for hydroelectric power. Adventurers should take advantage of these natural resources while they still can.

Turrialba’s bus terminal (☎2557 5050) is located about 350m southwest of the parque central, on Av. 4. Tickets may be purchased at the terminal window prior to departure. Buses leave for San José (direct 1hr., indirect 2hr.; every hr. 6am-10pm; ¢1035). Buses available to Cartago (1hr., ¢620), Siquirres (2hr.); La Suiza (30min., ¢205); Santa Cruz/Parque Nacional Volcán Turrialba (1hr., ¢320). On weekends and in the high season, you might have to buy tickets to San José a day or so in advance to procure a seat. Buses also leave from the terminal for Monumento Nacional Guayabo (1hr.; M-Sa 11:15am, 2:30, 5:30pm; return 5:30, 6:30, 11:30am, 4pm; Su 9am, 3, 6pm, return 6:30am, 12:30, 4pm). Taxis are also available (☎2556 7070; one-way ¢7000, round-trip includes 1hr. wait ¢15,000). Taxis line up at the corner of Av. Central/C. Central.

Orientation And Practical Information

In Turrialba, 62km east of San José, calles (C.) run perpendicular to avenidas (Av.), but all streets are slightly offset, so they do not run north-south and east-west. As in most Costa Rican cities, streets have names, but no one uses them. With the parque central as a reference point, things aren’t too tough to find.

• Tourist Office: There is a tourist office located next to La Feria, but it has variable hours. Patricia or Luis at Hotel Interamericano are also able to provide information about the town and nearby sights.
• Banks: All banks listed have 24hr. ATMs. Banco de Costa Rica (☎2556 0472), 2 blocks south and two blocks east of the park. Open M-F 8am-4pm. Banco Nacional (☎2556 1211), a few meters west of Banco de Costa Rica. Open M-F 8:30am-3:45pm. Long lines tend to build up at the tellers. Banco Popular (☎2556 6098), on Av. 4, just east of Popo’s. Open M-F 9am-4:30pm, Sa 8:15-11:30am. BanCredito (☎2556 4141), next to Cafe Azul and across the street from Turribasicos. Open M-F 8am-4pm, Sa 8am-11:30pm. Western Union (☎2556 0439), 100m south and 50m east of the south corner of the parque, is inside of Tienda La Moda. Open M-Sa 8am-6:30pm.
• Bookstore: (☎2556 1697), diagonally across from the post office, north of the parque on C. Central. A wide selection of second-hand books (¢1500-4000) in English, Spanish, French, German, and Portuguese are sold in this tiny bookstore. Owner speaks English. Hours are flexible, usually open M-F 8:30-11:30am and 2:30-5:30pm.
• Emergency: ☎911.
• Police: (☎2556 0030 or 2556 8265), 500m south of the town center on C. 4.
• Pharmacy: Farmacia Santa Catalina (☎2556 8983), Av. 6 and C. 2. Open daily 8am-8pm. AmEx/MC/V. Farmacia San Buenaventura (☎2556 0379), Av. 2 and C. 1, 1 block west of the parque on Av. 6. Open M-Sa 8am-7:30pm, Su 8:30am-1pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Hospital: (☎2558 1311). Walk up the stairs at the west end of Av. 2, or drive west on Av. 4 past the bus station and turn left into the hospital. Open 24hr.
• Internet Access:
• • Dimension Internet (☎2257 5700), across C. 1 from the parque, upstairs past Mama Mía’s. Internet ¢300 per hr. Open M-Sa 8:30am-10pm, Su 8:30am-1pm.
  • @Internet (☎2556 2857), just east of Hotel Wagelia on Av. 4. Has more computers than Dimension. Internet ¢300 per hr. Open M-F 8am-10pm, Sa 8:30am-10pm, Su 11am-9pm.
  • Cafe Internet (☎2256 4575), Av. 2 and C. 4. Modern computers, A/C. Internet ¢300 per hr.
• Phone Cards: Available at Pague aquí su Luz y Teléfono, across the street from BanCredito. Open M-F 7:30am-5:30pm, Sa 8am-5pm.
• Post Office: (☎2556 1679), 200m northwest of the north corner of the parque, across from the bookstore. Open M-F 8am-noon and 1-5:30pm. Postal Code: 7150.

Accommodations

Turrialba has a few traditional hostels, but a few budget hotels are available for comparable prices. Although most of Turrialba’s hotels are pricier, they may offer a nice place to rest and will arrange trips to nearby sights.

• Hotel Interamericano (☎2556 0142; www.hotelinteramericano.com), bright coral-and-orange building 3 blocks south and one block east of the parque, just behind the row of palms. The owners speak English and have tons of information about sights, guides, and restaurants. Amenities include hot showers, breakfast (not included), laundry service (wash ¢1500 per kg, dry ¢1000 per load), and a large sitting area with cable TV. Reception 24hr. Singles US$11, with bath US$25; doubles US$22/35; triples US$33/50; quads US$44/65. V/¢/US$. Traveler’s checks accepted.
• Costa Rica Ríos Bed and Breakfast (☎2256 6651, 8879 0102 after hours; www.hotelturrialba.com). Renovated in a Spanish Colonial style, Costa Rica Ríos primarily houses those on the week-long adventure tour , but all are welcome. 10 airy rooms with private baths, parking, free international calls, free self-service laundry, and Wi-Fi. Reception daily 8am-6pm. Dinner and breakfast included in the dining room or the garden with koi pond. Singles US$35; doubles US$55; triples US$75.
• Volcán Turrialba Lodge (☎2273 4335 or 2273 0194; www.volcanturrialbalodge.com), about 1hr. from Turrialba and only a few km from the volcano’s summit. Incredible views of the volcano and the valley from any of their lovely, cabin-style rooms. Perfect for those more interested in the outdoors than the town. Take advantage of the horseback, birdwatching, and hiking tours . Private hot-water baths and common room with TV and comfortable couches. Electric heaters provided. Singles, doubles, and triples available, as well as a 4-bedroom cabin. US$45 per person per night for any room combination, includes 1 meal. Busiest months are Jun.-Oct.; reserve in advance.
• Hotel Wagelia (☎2556 1566; www.hotelwagelia.com), 1 block south of park, 1½ blocks west on Av. 2. Wagelia boasts 18 comfortable rooms, with private hot-water baths, A/C, cable TV, phone, and safe deposit box. The attached restaurant/bar serves moderately-priced entrees. Wi-Fi. Laundry and tour service available. Breakfast included. Singles US$55; doubles US$70; triples US$84. AmEx/MC/V. Traveler’s checks accepted.
• Hotel Turrialba (☎2556 5789), 100m south and 150m west of the parque. A good value for pairs. Murals decorate the hallways. All the rooms are simple, with wood-panelled walls, clean private hot-water baths, TVs, and fans. Some rooms lack windows. Reception 24hr. Can place international calls. Singles ¢6300; doubles ¢7500. MC/V.

Food

Dining options are limited to pizza, comida típica, and a few less-than-authentic Chinese restaurants, but all of Turrialba’s sodas and restaurants have an open, local feel. For fresh produce, check out the farmer’s market along Av. Central every F and Sa. The local MegaSuper is 100m south and 100m east of the west corner of the parque. (Open M-Sa 7am-9pm, Su 7am-7pm. AmEx/MC/V.) Turribasicos, on C. 2, near the corner of Av. Central/C. 2, has a pharmacy and bakery inside. (Open M-Th 7:30am-8pm, F-Sa 7:30am-9pm, Su 7:30am-4pm.)

• Restaurante Don Porfi (☎2556 9797), 4km outside of town on the road to Volcán Turrialba. Well worth the ¢1600 cab ride. Taking the bus to Santa Cruz and getting off early is a lunchtime possibility, but a cab will still be needed for the ride back. Up the hill from Turrialba, Don Porfi is popular with locals but generally unknown among tourists. Excellent dishes include mixed seafood platters (¢2700-5400), beef tenderloin (7 varieties; ¢3800-4800), and chicken in garlic sauce (¢2800). Try the flan de coco (¢850). Open daily 11am-11pm. Reservations recommended, especially on weekends. MC/V.
• La Feria (☎2557 5550), 200m west of the south corner of the parque past Hotel Wagelia, at intersection of Av. 2 and C. 4. Run by a superb chef in a charming setting—local artists’ work decorates the walls, and soothing jazz plays in the background. Affordable gourmet fare includes filet mignon (¢4850), casados (¢1500), club sandwiches (¢2050), and a wide variety of fruit drinks (¢500) and milkshakes (¢750). Plenty of veggie options. Open M and W-Su 11:30am-10pm, Tu 11:30am-1pm. AmEx/MC/V.
• Pizzería/Soda Popo’s (☎2556 0064 or 2557 2600), on the east side of the parque. Known for its simple fare. If rafting has left you too tired to walk, they deliver until 4pm. Pizzas ¢2500-2700, ¢650 per slice. Burritos ¢600-850. Open daily 7am-11pm.
• Café Azul (☎2556 4255), 200m south and 150m west of the parque. A delightful haven of caffeine, Café Azul offers a wide variety of hot and iced coffee drinks, desserts, and breakfasts. The décor is minimal, but the blue walls plastered with posters of desserts are well suited to this “blue cafe.” Try the Café Azúl, a concoction of coffee, ice cream, and blueberries (¢1100) or just go for a banana split (¢1100). Meals are available but are not the focus. Gallo pinto with eggs ¢1200. Open M-F 10am-7pm. MC/V.
• Restaurante/Bar Garza (☎2256 1440), on the west corner of the parque. Serves comida típica that’s better than average, but more expensive as well. Oldies music and hanging lanterns make this no-frills restaurant a good place to relax. Try the plato del día with rice, beans, salad, and beef (¢7600). Casados ¢1950. Chicken prepared multiple ways ¢3400. Fish dishes ¢3500. Open daily 11am-11pm. AmEx/MC/V.

Nightlife And Entertainment

• Discoteque Rikaste (☎2552 2165), Av. Central, C. 1/3, beside Banco Nacional, 2nd fl. Dance the night away with locals and tourists on Sa (9pm-2:30am). Cover depends on time and size of crowd, but may be up to ¢1500. Cervezas ¢700-1000, sandwiches ¢950-1400, platos fuertes ¢1400-3000. Restaurant/bar open daily noon-2am.
• Charlie’s Sports Bar (☎2557 6565), Av. Central, C. Central, at the back of the complex. Modern neon lighting and TVs make this new sports bar the perfect place to catch a fútbol game with locals and the ever-present crowd of foreigners. Buffalo wings ¢2950-4950. Hamburgers and sandwiches ¢1950-3350. Mixed drinks ¢2000. Shots ¢1500. Happy hour 5-8. Th Ladies’ Night. Open daily noon-1am.
• Pocho’s, on the main road in La Suiza. A bus goes to La Suiza every hr. until 10pm (30min., ¢205), but you’ll have to take a taxi back if you’re staying out later. This popular local bar draws ticos and tourists from both Turrialba and La Suiza. Various license plates line the walls, and the energetic owner entertains customers by juggling beer bottles and a machete. Look for signs in Turrialba that advertise periodic Sa night disco parties with Costa Rica’s most popular DJs. Open daily 11am-late. Beer ¢700.

Outdoor Activities And Guided Tours

Capitalizing on Turrialba’s legendary rafting and kayaking opportunities, tour operators offer adventure trips for all abilities. A day on the rapids is expensive, but the experience is unforgettable. If you have your own equipment or rent from one of the tour companies, your hotel should be able to arrange transport to a nearby river. Ask about the nearby serpent farm ( Serpentario Viborana; 10km away; ☎2538 1510), Volcán Turrialba, and the Aquiares waterfall.

• Ríos Locos (☎2556 6035; www.whiteh20.com). Not one of Turrialba’s largest companies, but it is one of the friendliest. These self-proclaimed Río Pacuare specialists offer rafting trips, horseback rides, and boat tours. They prefer small groups but will accommodate groups of up to 36 with advance notice. Class III-IV rafting on the Pacuare, Pejibaye, and Reventazón (half-day US$65, full-day US$70-95). Photographer accompanies raft down river; photos available for negotiated price. Full-day horseback tours along a jungle train line near the Peralta River with a swim in a volcanic lake US$55; Volcán Turrialba on horseback US$85. Trip to Monumento Nacional Guayabo US$40.
• Tico’s River Adventures (☎2556 1231; www.ticoriver.com) is a small local company. Offers friendly service and years of experience. Specializing in rafting trips, Tico arranges day trips to the Pacuare (Class IV), Reventazón (Class II, III, or IV depending on trip), and Pascua (Class IV). 1-day trips US$75, include lunch. Special student rate US$55 per person for groups of 6 or more. An all-inclusive 2-day Pacuare trip is also available (US$260 per person, includes hiking).
• Costa Rica Ríos (☎2556 9617; www.costaricarios.com), 10m north of the parque. Considered the most reputable rafting and kayaking operator and owns the largest fleet of water sports equipment in Central America. Offers exclusively pre-booked, all-inclusive, week-long adventure tours. 8-day adventure (includes rafting, kayaking, canopy tour, and snorkeling) trip from US$1799; 8-day river-only (rafting and kayaking) trip from US$1599. The B&B provides a respite from the week of adventures. AmEx/MC/V.
• Volcán Turrialba Lodge (☎2273 4335; www.volcanturrialbalodge.com). Offers a horseback tour to the top of Volcán Turrialba for US$35 (4-5hr.; includes horse, guide, and snack). 2hr. hiking and birdwatching tours available (US$20). Mountain biking US$30.

Sights

Volcán Turrialba.  The scenic road to the summit is steep and winding, and it becomes especially rocky after the town of Santa Cruz. Previously impassable by automobile, the last few kilometers have recently been improved, so that it is now possible, though not exactly easy, to drive all the way up the volcano. The road is still rather undeveloped and narrow and is most safely tackled in a 4WD taxi. (From Turrialba, 1-2hr.; roundtrip ¢25,000, includes wait time). The Santa Cruz (1hr., ¢320) bus stops at the entrance to the park, 18km from the summit. It is best to make the trip early in the morning to avoid mid-day rains and to catch the sun rising over the valley. Bring a sweatshirt and pants, since it is often surprisingly cold at the high-altitude summit.

Turrialba stands out among Costa Rica’s volcanoes. Unfortunately, the path down into the crater is now closed, as the volcano is still active. It is relatively untouched, and there is no information station or entrance fee. For a guided tour by horseback or on foot, check out Volcán Turrialba Lodge .

Daytrip From Turrialba

Monumento Nacional Guayabo

Buses to the entrance leave from the Turrialba bus terminal on Av. 4. 1hr.; M-Sa 11:15am, 2:30, 5:30pm; return 5:30, 6:30, 11:30am, 4pm; Su 9am, 3, 6pm; return 6:30am, 12:30, 4pm). Taxis are available (☎2556 7070); one-way ¢7000; round-trip ¢15,000, includes 1hr. wait. ☎2559 1220. Open daily 8am-3:30pm. US$6, children under 12 US$2.

Located 19km northeast of Turrialba, Monumento Nacional Guayabo is Costa Rica’s most important archaeological site and the country’s only National Monument. The park covers 218 hectares, although the archaeological site is just 20 hectares, and only four of those 20 have been excavated. Much remains unknown about the civilization that built and abandoned the site, though current estimates suggest that approximately 10,000 people lived here from 1500 BC to AD 1400, with most of the construction occurring after AD 800. Some say that the Guayabo people migrated to Colombia, and, in fact, many indigenous Columbians claim to have ancestors of similar traditions. The mysterious first inhabitants left records of their sophistication: their houses were built on large montículos (circular foundations), and they constructed calzadas (long causeways), a bridge, and an aqueduct system that still works today. The remnants of these structures, at the end of an easy 1.5km trail through rainforest, are the focal point of the site, though you will pass a monolith, coffin graves, and several intricate petroglyphs on the way. Another 1km trail from the park entrance leads to a rushing stream with potable water. Both trails, especially the shorter one, are very muddy in the rainy season; be sure to bring boots and rain gear. Take a copy of the pamphlet and ask if a guide can give a tour. The ruins are interesting, but there’s not much else to see. If you take a bus to the monument, you’ll finish the tour long before the next bus departs. There’s a campsite (US$4 per person) that has a toilet, a cold-water shower, and BBQ pits.

If you find yourself waiting for the bus, head down the road 500m to the Guayabo Butterfly Garden (☎8832 3586; open daily 8am-4pm; US$2). Check out the meshed enclosure filled with colorful butterflies, caterpillars, and cocoons. Also visit the neighboring restaurant La Calzada Guayobo (☎2559 0437, open M-Tu, and Th-Su 8am-6pm). It is a bright and cheery place, decorated to seem authentically Costa Rican, with farm implements leaning against the walls and painted wagon wheels hanging from the ceiling. Go for the grilled chicken breast (¢1950) or just have the rice and beans (¢1950).