The trading and communications hub for the northeast corner of Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (or simply “Ubon”) attracts few travelers until its stunning Candle Festival draws thousands in July. This “royal city of lotuses” was formed only 200 years ago, and the well-planned roadway grid is evidence of its relative modernity. There are, nevertheless, a few fine wats to visit, and a great central park offering an escape from the concrete streets. Ubon is famed for its silk and cotton cloth, and great shopping awaits tourists, while those interested in monastic Buddhism can visit many of the region’s secluded forest monasteries. Not far downstream, the Moon River flows into the “emerald triangle,” where Laos, Cambodia, and Thailand converge in the lush jungle.
Readily accessible by air, bus, or train, Ubon is also the last stop on the northeastern branch of the national rail network. To go farther east or north, travelers must rely on the sometimes-daunting bus system.
Ubon’s main thoroughfare, Upparat Road, stretches north-south for 12km; at its north end it is called Chayangkun Road. It’s southern end crosses the Moon River into the Warin Chamrap District, home to the train station. Songthaew #1, 2, 3, and 6 go near there from Ubon proper. North of the river, Upparat Rd. passes the riverside market and intersects Khuanthani Road, two blocks up. The hospital and museum are here; TAT is to the right. The large university and the main bus station are situated northwest from the center of town, and the airport is to the northeast.
In Ubon, a good night’s sleep can come at a relatively good price unless you’re planning to visit during a festival. If that does happen to be the case, be sure to call ahead and make reservations.
The riverside market is a round-the-clock affair, but is most lively in the morning. A small night market sets up around 5pm. As you cross the bridge into Ubon, the market is immediately to the right of Upparat Rd. A better night market sets up just north of the main market in stalls lining Ratchabut Rd., east of the museum and park. Fried chicken, fruit shakes, and crepes, easily make a full meal. Ubon is a good place to try Isaan’s famous som tom (25-30฿).
Wat Nong Bua, off Thammawithi Rd., near the bus station, is a breathtaking, 56m replica of the Great Chedi of Buddhagaya in India, the site of Buddha’s enlightenment. The exterior reliefs depict the four postures of Buddha: birth, achievement of enlightenment, first sermon, and passing. The greenery growing from the stark grey chedi augments the striking stature of the wat. Take songthaew #10 to get there. Wat Ban No Muang, northeast of town, features a modern, 50m tall three-headed elephant statue. Take songthaew #8 to get there.
The Ubon Ratchathani National Museum is in the heart of the city. To get there, heading toward the bus station, take a right off Upparat Rd.; it’s on the left, on Khuanthani Rd. The museum documents the region’s history and culture and features a 2100- to 2500-year-old bronze kettle drum, a 9th-century Dvaravati boundary stone, Khmer lintels, and local crafts. The exhibition is mostly in Thai; unless you’re a real museum buff, the 30฿ might be better spent elsewhere. (☎045 255 071. Open W-Su 9am-4pm. 30฿.)
Two spots on the Moon River provide relaxing diversions for locals. Ko Hat Wat Tai is an island surrounded by huts on stilts above the water. Locals order food from restaurants on the island and picnic in the huts during the dry season (Jan.-Apr.). Open daily 11am-6pm. Take songthaew #1 to the end of Khuanthani Rd. and walk toward the river and across the concrete bridge, where a set of stairs descends to the island. Highly recommended, Hat Khudua, is located 12km west of town. Songthaew #9 from Warin Chamrap bus station will take you there. (Open daily 8am-5pm, depending on demand; open as late as midnight in high picnicing season.)
Wat Thon Si Muang, on Luang Rd., has one of the best-preserved wooden scripture halls in Thailand. Raised on piers in the center of a pool, the hall was designed to prevent ants and termites from destroying the scriptures. In the convocation hall, wall paintings depict everyday life in the 19th century. The July Candle Festival, which celebrates the Buddhist Lent, takes place in the park that shares a name with the wat, encompassing an entire city block north of the National Museum. For those who miss the festival, the park houses an impressive permanent wax sculpture which will give you a taste of this local art.
Ubon’s nightlife is concentrated north of the river along Chayangkun Rd. The Nevada multiplex, past the intersection of Upparat and Ratchathani Rd., shows the latest Hollywood flicks (80฿) dubbed into Thai.
Ubon is famous for silk and khit-patterned cotton cloth. Maybe Cotton Hut, 124 Sinarong Rd., is near Ratchawong Rd. and sells inexpensive cotton clothing in some unique styles and patterns, all of which are locally made. (☎045 254 932. Open daily 7:30am-9pm.)
Those looking for world-famous Isaan silk should try the Women’s Weaving Cooperative in the village of Ban Pa Ao, 21km north of Ubon, on Rte. 23. Ban Pa Ao is a 200-year-old village famous for its bronze and silk wares. Their traditional mudmee silk is available in an array of colors and patterns; prices (from 650฿ per meter) run into the thousands. Weavers perform demonstrations on request. From the Ubon bus station, take a songthaew heading to Keang Nai (30min., every hr. 8am-4pm, 12฿), then walk 400m into the village. To return to Ubon, flag down any bus heading south to the city, or catch a songthaew directly from the village. For more information, contact the town leader, Apichat Phanngoen (☎045 313 505).
For a more general selection of local handicrafts, try Punchard, 56 Phadaeng (☎045 265 751; www.punchard.net), which sells local silk, mawn khuan (traditional axe pillows), fish traps, rice containers, and bronze trinkets. The larger of the two showrooms is located across from Hanza Pub. (Open daily 9:30am-8:30pm.)
A few meters south of Punchard, on Phadaeng Rd., is the equally excellent Khampun Shop, which sells its famous silk, produced locally, at a unique village southwest of Ubon. Visitors to Ubon during the Candle Festival have a rare opportunity to visit the village, Baan Khampun, where this sought-after silk is produced for the 10 days leading up to the festival (contact TAT for more info). The rest of the year, its production is kept under wraps. To get to the village, take Songthaew #9.
Forest Monasteries. Northeast Thailand is known for its meditation. Forest wats are home to dudtong (serious and ascetic) monks who keep strict vows—they limit food to one meal per day and ask for alms daily. Members of the even stricter Santi Asok sect are only allowed to walk barefoot. When visiting the monesteries, visitors should wear proper dress (preferably white tops and bottoms for men, white tops and black bottoms for women; no shorts) and enter quietly, as silent meditation is often in session.
Wat Pa Nanachat has the unique mission of training primarily non-Thai Buddhist students in the ancient practice of forest-dwelling monasticism. English is the primary language, and those studying meditation and Buddhism (as well as those with a healthy curiosity) are welcome to visit. It is recommended that visitors arrive before 8am to partake of the daily meal and offering with all practitioners and to have the chance to speak with the abbot and get a tour of the facilities. Modesty should be observed, and women and men are normally discouraged from conversing. Serious students may be able to arrange an overnight or several-week stay, but must write in advance (address letter to “The Guest Monk,” Wat Pah Nanachat, Bahn Bang Wai, Warin Chamrab, Ubon Ratchathani 34310, Thailand). The wat is a branch of nearby Wat Nong Pa Pong, known principally for meditation teacher Ajahn Chah, who passed away in 1992 and was famed for his discipline and forest-dwelling form of asceticism. Both wats have more than 20 acres of forest, providing a pleasant place to spend some time. A major branch of the controversial Santi Asok sect resides 6km to the east of town; ask in town for details. ( Wat Pa Nanachat is behind a rice field, off the highway to Si Saket, near Bung Wai village. Catch a Si Saket-bound bus or songthaew from Warin Chamrap Station, and ask to get off at Wat Pa Nanachat (every 45min. 6am-6pm,13km, 15฿). Alternatively, head 200m west to the songthaew stop near the clocktower where the number 219 songthaew begins its route. The songthaew are sometimes faster than the bus and leave more regularly (20฿, every 30min. 7:30am-5:30pm). The wat is located about 500m from the road, inside a walled, forested compound. Wat Nong Pa Pong temple is 10km south of Ubon and off the road to Katharalak. Ask for directions at Pa Nanachat.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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