Utuado Overview

Utuado’s highlights are its rich Taíno roots and forward-thinking eco-development of its natural surroundings. The town reflects its colonial history, with a Spanish central plaza and American fast-food joints on the outskirts. More than a main attraction itself, Utuado serves as an excellent base for heading out into the neighboring mountains. Park the car, throw on your boots, and get ready to experience the adventurous side of Puerto Rico’s rainforest.

Transportation And Practical Information. Públicos leave early in the morning for Arecibo (45min., $2) from Av. Esteves and C. Israel Malaret Juarbe. The city center is divided by a river. Rte. 123 becomes Avenue Esteves and goes through town; at the Plaza Mercado, turn right to hit the town plaza. On the other side of the river, Rte. 111 runs parallel to the river and becomes Avenue Fernando Luis Rivas. Tourist information and hand-drawn maps are available at the Centro de Arte, Cultura y Turismo, C. Doctor Cueto 10, as you enter town from Rte. 123 from the south, a few blocks from the plaza. Banco Popular, C. Doctor Cueto 93, is before the tourist info center, heading away from the plaza. (☎894-2700. 24hr. ATM. Open M-F 8am-4pm, Sa 9am-noon.) The police station is on C. Sampson, at the corner of the plaza uphill from the main church. (☎894-3022. Open 24hr.) The CDT (Centro de Diagnóstico y Tratamiento), at C. Betances 2, acts as the local hospital; it is down from the police station behind the main church on the plaza. (☎894-2288. Open 24hr.) Free Internet is available only during the school year at the Biblioteca Pública across the street from the Centro de Arte, Cultura y Turismo. (Open M-F 8am-4pm, Sa 9am-3pm.) The post office, Av. Fernando Luis Rivas 41, is on Rte. 111, at the third traffic light up from the intersection with Rte. 123. (☎894-2490. General Delivery. Open M-F 8am-4:30pm, Sa 8am-noon.) Postal Code: 00641.

Accommodations And Food. If you just want a place to crash, look no further than Hotel Riverside , Av. Fernando Rivas 1, at the intersection of Rte. 111 and Rte. 123, above a Chinese restaurant. This tiny hotel is connected to the owner’s house and has no signs, but its small rooms manage to fit a fridge and a TV, and the price is right. (☎216-3279. A/C. Doubles $40; 6-person room $60. Cash only.) For lakefront luxury, visitors should head to Los Piños Lake Resort 3, at the intersection of Rte. 140 and Rte. 613, on the picturesque Lago Caonillas. The recently renovated villas contain a sitting room with sleeper sofa, kitchen, and bedroom with queen bed. The resort has its own restaurant and bar open Friday to Sunday. Classical music or jazz concerts liven things up twice a month. (☎894-3481 or 894-3464. $75, better view $85. Extra person $15. AmEx/MC/V.) For groceries head to Econo, on Rte. 111 about 0.7 mi. past the post office. (Open daily 7am-9pm.) In town, there are plenty of cafeterías and fast-food joints, but to take advantage of Utuado’s natural surroundings, head out of town to Jungle Jane’s Restaurant , on Rte. 612 just off Rte. 140, at the remote Casa Grande Mountain Retreat. This mesón gastronómico serves breakfast and dinner in a former coffee plantation. Candlelit tables on a balcony overlooking the forest with coquís chirping in the background create a romantic mood. (Entrees $12-25. Open daily 8-10:30am and 6-9pm. AmEx/D/MC/V.) Ravenous adventurers will appreciate the diversity of the menu (mofongo, spaghetti, pizza), the quick service, and reasonable prices at La Familia , Rte. 111 Km 12. (☎894-7209. Entrees $6-15. Open M and W-Th 11am-9pm, F-Sa 11am-11pm, Su 1-10pm. MC/V.)

Sights. Utuado is surrounded by natural wonders and historic sites on a prodigious scale. The island’s largest cave system, the most extensive Taíno site, and the world’s biggest telescope are all accessible from this one small town. If you really want to explore the area and get up-close with nature, then head to  Tanamá Expeditions. Owner Roberto was born and raised in the mountains and knows every rock, river, and trail. Today he leads exhilarating hiking excursions along subterranean rivers, through the overgrown bamboo forests of the Tanamá Trail, and to the enormous Arecibo Observatory. These trips require good physical health and sturdy shoes, but Roberto provides specialized equipment, lunch, and even a place to stay the night before. Trips range from 3 to 7hr. and include a combination of different trails, but the highlight is certainly the famous bamboo trail and tubing through the 700 ft.-long Arco Cave ($78, including lodging.) The more adventurous can arrange for a two-day journey that includes traversing a bioluminescent cave and hiking the Tanamá Trail ($250, check with owner about necessary camping equipment). All tours include free lodging (shared basic rooms with bathrooms or camping space) at the owner’s house and a filling lunch. (Continue past Parque Caguana to Rte. 111 at about Km 15.3, turn left on Rte. 602 and follow signs to the office at Km 1.3. ☎894-7685 or 201 9174; www.puertoricoadventures.com. Cash only.)

Parque Indígena Caguana is the largest site of Taíno ruins on the island, which leads archaeologists to believe that it once served as a social, religious, or ceremonial center. Supposedly the Taínos came down the Río Tamaná, then chose to settle in this spot when they saw that the surrounding mountains had the shape of their religious icon, the cemí. The site contains several batey courts, a ritual handball game that had major religious significance. Carbon-dating techniques suggest that the first settlement here took place as early as 1200. The Institute of Culture maintains the site today, which means that it has much better infrastructure than other Taíno sights, and friendly workers frequently provide unofficial, free guided tours. Even without a tour, it’s enjoyable to wander around the picturesque botanical garden and batey courts as you attempt to identify the petroglyphs in the rocks. A museum explains the basics of Taíno culture. (Rte. 111 Km 12.3, west of Utuado. ☎894-7325 or 894-7310. Open daily 8:30am-4:20pm. $2, ages 6-12 $1, under 6 and over 60 free.)