Vézelay Overview

High above the Vallée de Cousin and seemingly frozen in time, Vézelay (vay-zeh-lay; pop. 457) has distilled all the stereotypical perfections of a French village into its tiny centre-ville. From its hilltop perch, the town watches over dense forests, fields of golden wheat, and herds of cattle. The shops along the village’s four main streets sell only local Burgundian produce and artisanal creations. Vézelay is one of France’s most pristine villages, so budget travelers must contend with high prices and hordes of tourists in the summer, but these are not reasons to miss out on this perfect portrayal of the past.

Trains: From Paris to Sermizelles (2hr., 3-4 per day, €27) via Auxerre or Laroche-Migennes.
Buses: Rapides de Bourgogne buses leave the train station at Avallon for Vézelay (July-Aug. M-F 9am, Sa-Su 10:30am, return M-F 5:34pm, Sa 3:58pm; Sept.-June bus leaves F night and returns M morning; €3.70). Les Cars de la Madeleine (☎03 86 33 50 38) navette goes from Avallon to Vézelay (Sa 11:30am).
Taxis: ☎03 86 34 04 52 or 32 31 88. €24 from Avallon. 24hr.
Bike Rental: AB Loisirs, rue des Graviers (☎03 86 33 38 38; www.abloisirs.com), across from the campsite in nearby St-Père, 2km downhill along D957 toward Avallon. €18 per ½-day, €25 per day. Also organizes outdoor activities, including ½-day trips from St-Père to Sermizelles by canoe, raft, or kayak. Swimming ability is a must; insurance is highly recommended. 2hr. trip M-F €33, Sa-Su €27. Rafting €33-41. ½-day guided cave tour €37. Horseback riding €17 per hr. Open daily 9:30am-6pm.

The Way To Vézelay. The lack of a train station might make getting to Vézelay seem dauntingly complicated, but there are plenty of options. You can catch a train to Sermizelles and take Allo Taxi Vézelay (☎03 86 32 31 88) for the 10km ride (€17) to Vézelay. A cheaper option is the bus—or even the navette, if it coincides with your schedule. Vézelay can also be reached by bike—a great way to explore the nearby countryside. The road from Avallon is a bit hilly, so bring water and prepare to move at the pace of an escargot.

Practical Information

Tourist Office: 12 rue St-Étienne (☎03 86 33 23 69; www.vezelaytourisme.com). Internet €2 per 10min. Group tours (most in French, some English) by reservation; individual tours July-Aug. Open June-Sept. daily 10am-1pm and 2-6pm; Oct. and Apr. M-W and F-Su 10am-1pm and 2-6pm; Nov.-Mar. M-W and F-Sa 10am-1pm and 2-6pm.
Pharmacy: 25 rue St-Étienne (☎03 86 33 24 85). Open M-Sa 9am-noon and 2-7pm. Check the window for the pharmacie de garde.
Post Office: 17 rue St-Étienne (☎03 86 33 26 35). ATM and currency exchange available. Open M-F 9am-noon and 2-4pm, Sa 9am-noon. Postal Code: 89450.

Accommodations And Camping

With more than 100,000 visitors passing through each summer, Vézelay’s accommodations fill up rapidly. Book a month ahead, particularly in summer. Most lodgings have a few rooms with views of the Morvan countryside.

Maison Les Glycines, rue St-Pierre (☎03 86 32 35 30), 1 block from the church. 3-star hotel with tall windows, tiled floors, and elegant furnishings. In the town’s artistic spirit, each room is named for a French artist or writer. Breakfast €9. Wheelchair-accessible. Reservations required. Singles €35-52; doubles €65-82. Extra bed €15. MC/V.
Auberge de Jeunesse (HI) and Camping de L’Ermitage (both ☎03 86 33 24 18). From rue St-Étienne, veer left downhill and bear right on route de l’Étang. Follow the signs; the hostel and campground will be on your left (15min.). 4-6 bed rooms. Kitchen. Reception 5:30-7pm. Lockout 10am-5:30pm. Open Mar.-Nov. Camping €3 per person, children €1.50; €1 per tent. Electricity €2.50. Dorms €8-10. Cash only.

Food

Pick up groceries at the Vival supermarket, near the bottom of rue St-Étienne. (Open July-Aug. daily 8:30am-1pm and 2-8pm; Sept.-June M-Sa 8:30am-12:30pm and 3-7pm, Su 9am-12:30pm. MC/V.)

Auberge de la Coquille , 81 rue St-Pierre (☎03 86 33 35 57; www.coquille-vezelay.com). Try the menu bourguignon (€12), which includes a ham-and-egg galette, crêpe with honey, and glass of wine. 3- and 4-course menus from €14. Open June-Aug. daily noon-2pm and 7-9pm. Reservations recommended. MC/V.
Le Bouganville, 28 rue St-Étienne (☎03 86 33 27 57). 4-course menu du jardinier (€20) includes salad, vegetables, cheese, and dessert. Noix de joue de porc au pain d’épices (pork braised in a gingerbread sauce; €13). Plats from €9. Open Feb.-Nov. M and Th-Su noon-2pm and 7-9pm. Reservations recommended. MC/V.
La Dent Creuse (☎03 86 33 36 33; www.vezelaytour.net), at the intersection of pl. du Champ de Foire and rue St-Étienne. Pizza menu (€8.50-12) has options like the loaded bourguignonne with cream, champignons, escargots, and eggs. Menus €19-25. Open from mid-Mar. to mid-Jan. daily noon-2pm and 7-10pm. MC/V.

Sights

Basilique Sainte-Madeleine. All roads in Vézelay converge at this famous hilltop church. An impressive representation of Romanesque and Gothic styles, the church has a sculpted tympanum above the doors to its cavernous interior. Concerts and performances take place in the basilica during the summer; call the tourist office for info. (☎03 86 33 39 50. Open daily 7am-8:30pm. Closed during mass. Tours in English with reservation. Concert tickets €25. Pamphlets in English €6.)

Other Sights. Caves du Pèlerin —the local winery—offers guided tours and dégustations. (32 rue St-Étienne. ☎03 86 33 30 84. French tours from mid-Apr. to mid-Sept. Sa-Su 2:30-5pm. Tours in English by reservation; reserve by at least the Th before your visit. €5, under 18 free. MC/V.) Head to Musée Zervos for a sampling of modern art collected by French art critic Christian Zervos. Several Calder mobiles hang overhead, and works by Ernst, Giacometti, Kandinsky, and Picasso adorn the walls. (Rue St-Étienne. ☎03 86 32 39 26; www.musee-zervos.fr. Open from mid-Mar. to mid-Nov. daily 10am-6pm. Last entry 5:20pm. €3, students €2, under 18 free.)