Valletta’s ochre houses and sharply sloping streets cling to a narrow stretch of peninsula. Walking in this tiny city is ideal, and you’ll be rewarded with grand views of the surrounding ocean. The rocky and fortified seaside means that the startlingly blue Mediterranean often remains out of reach. Instead, head to Valletta’s atmospheric churches and museums in between strolling from souvenir shop to cafe. The city hides several worn neighborhoods in its folds, where cats watch you from corners and elderly men repair watches in the sun.
Valletta’s streets are laid out in a neat grid. The main avenue, Republic Street (Triq ir-Repubblika), cuts across the city from the bus terminal to the sea at the other end. Several attractions, as well as plenty of shops and restaurants, draw sandal-and-shorts clad tourists here all day. Travelers also linger on Merchants Street (Triq il-Merkanti), which runs parallel to Republic Street.
Although Valletta has no dorm-style hostel accommodations, you’ll find great prices for singles and doubles at guesthouses (pensiones). All of the following are located fairly close to the bus terminus as well as to the restaurants and shops of Republic Street (Triq ir-Repubblika).
Restaurants in Valletta can be expensive, but explore the streets leading off Triq ir-Repubblika to find cafes that won’t have you eyeing your reserve cash supply. To grab the cheapest eats, follow local residents to the shops selling tasty pastizzi (pastry stuffed with cheese or peas; about €0.30 each) and imqaret (pastry stuffed with dates; about €0.20 each) near the bus terminus. Grocery stores aren’t easy to come by. For a well-stocked shop, walk up Merchants Street to The Albion Stores, where crackers and lunch meat cost €1-2. (Walk toward the City Gates, just before St. Lucija St., to your right. Open daily 8:30am-7pm. Closes around 12:30pm for lunch.)
The city of Valletta is a sight in itself: it is listed as a World Heritage Site. Make sure you have ample time (that is, about an hour) to wander its lonely streets. Walk down Triq ir-Repubblika to the National Museum of Archaeology to view intriguing ancient art—including stone penises—dating from 5000BC onwards. (☎2122 1623. Open daily 9am-7pm, last admission 6:30pm. €2.33, students €1.16. English explanations.) For a great view of the Three Cities across the bay, don’t miss the breezy Upper Barakka Gardens. (Free.) Queues form at St. John’s Co-Cathedral for its grand Baroque interiors and art by Caravaggio. (Entrance on Republic St. Open M-F 9:30am-4pm, Sa 9:30am-noon. €5.80, students €3.50. English audio guide included in entrance fee.) For a more peaceful experience, head to St. Paul’s Shipwreck Church, dedicated to the shipwreck of St. Paul on Maltese shores. The ornate interiors are packed with spiritual treasures, including part of the right wristbone of the apostle. (St. Paul’s St., entrance on St. Lucija. Open daily 10am-5pm, mass at 6pm. Free.) More baroque splendor may be found at the 275-year-old Manoel Theatre. Catch a performance here, or take a guided tour. (115 Old Theatre St. ☎2124 6389; www.teatrumanoel.com.mt. Tours Oct. 1-June 15 M-F every 45min. 10:15am-3:30pm, Sa 10:15am, 11am, 11:45am; June 16-Sept. 30 M-F every 45min. 10:15am-12:30pm, Sa 10:15am, 11am, 11:45am.) The seat of government in Malta for centuries, the Grand Master’s Palace and Armoury are worth a visit. (Free. Open to the public every day except Th.)
Most buses and ferries leave from Valletta, making the city the most convenient sight-seeing base in Malta. The rattling, yellow buses are frequent, cheap and fast—most towns are only about a 30min. ride away. Buy tickets on board.
Bus 11 goes to both sites (every 10-20mins., €0.47).
One of Malta’s most popular historic sites, the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, Burial St., consists of several levels of underground burial chambers and passages, the oldest of which dates back to 3600BC. Visitors marvel at the ancient paintings and visible evidence of early skilled workmanship. In order to ensure the preservation of the site, carbon dioxide levels must be kept in check—only a limited number of visitors are allowed in every day, so be sure to reserve a spot weeks in advance. (☎2180 5018. Required tours daily on the hour 9am-4pm, except noon. Book at www.heritagemaltashop.com, the Hypogeum, or at the Museum of Archaeology in Valletta. 10 people per tour. €9, students €4.70. Last minute tours at noon may be assembled depending on demand. Noon tours must be booked one day ahead. €20.) The Tarxien Temples, Neolithic Temples St., which date from 3600-2500BC, are a ten minute walk from the Hypogeum. (☎2169 5578. Open daily 9am-5pm, last admission 4:30pm. €2.30, students €1.16.)
Bus 80 goes to Rabat and Mdina (every 10-20min., €0.47).
The neighboring cities of Rabat and Mdina hold historical intrigue and unforgettable charms. In Rabat, the Wignacourt Museum, just off Parish Square, houses eerie catacombs and a shelter from WWII. (Open M-Sa 10am-3pm. €2.50.) Follow the signs to St. Paul’s Catacombs, a network of burial sites explained on the free audio guide. (Open daily 9am-5pm, last admission 4:30pm. €4.70, students €2.30.) St. Paul’s Church, Parish Square, stands on the site where St. Paul is believed to have taken shelter after being shipwrecked. Inside is the grotto where the saint supposedly lived. (Free.) Friendly waitresses serve sandwiches (€1-4.50) and entrees like pasta and pizza (€5-13) at La Piazza , Parish Square. (☎2145 0865. Open daily 8:30am-late. MC/V.)
Mdina’s flower-filled balconies and sunlit lanes seem transported from another time. Just inside the city gate, the National Museum of Natural History houses specimens of animals and minerals. (☎2145 5951. €2.33, €1.16. Open daily 9am-4:30pm. Cash only.) Turn left from the square to reach popular strolling ground, Villegaignon Street. The richly decorated St. Paul’s Cathedral, St. Paul’s Square, is accompanied by a museum beside it. (Both cathedral and museum open M-F 9:30am-4:30pm, Sa 9:30am-3:30pm. Cathedral free, museum €2.50, students €1.75.) Walk all the way down Villegaignon Street to Bastion Square for a great view of the hazy sea. At Fontanella Tea Garden , 1 Bastion St., dig into a cake while feasting on the view. (☎2145 0208. Cakes €2.20. Sandwiches €2-3. Pizza €7. Open in summer daily 10am-11pm, in winter 10am-6pm. Cash only.)
Bus 11 goes to Birzebugga (€0.47). Ask the driver to let you off at Ghar Dalam, before Birzebugga on the way from Valletta.
Birzebugga’s small, sandy beach draws families looking to play and bathe in the sun. However, Pretty Bay, as it’s called by locals, is a rather wishful name—not far from the beach you can see heavy industrial equipment at work. If you’re not into getting a tan, visit the Ghar Dalam Cave and Museum. The 144m long cave (not all of it open to the public) contains remains of Ice Age animals, as well as impressive stalagmites and stalactites. The museum houses rows of hippo toe bones and the like. (Open daily 9am-5pm. €3.49, students €1.75.)
Bus 27 goes to Marsaxlokk (€0.47).
On Sunday mornings, this small fishing village hosts a market selling everything from octopus to T-shirts. (Market closes around 12:30pm.) Shops line the harbor, where colorful luzzu (fishing boats) make for great photos. Linger afterwards for a cheap bite to eat at the Malta Labour Party Club (Centru Laburista), Xatt is-Sajjieda, facing the harbour. (☎2165 1184. Open daily 8am-11pm. Sandwiches €0.70-6. Cash only.)
Buses 1, 4, and 6 go to Birgu (every 30min., €0.47). Boat taxis also run from Valletta (€4).
This bayside city, opposite Valletta, was crowned the capital of Malta by the Knights of St. John in the 16th century. Today, its quiet streets and boat-filled harbor appeal to those looking to escape the crowds of Valletta. The 17th-century Inquisitor’s Palace, on Main Gate Street, houses a former prison, a chilling tribunal room, and religious artwork. (Open daily 9am-5pm. €4.66, students €2.33.) Amble down the street to Victory Square and turn left to reach the Parish Museum, where you can view the hat and sword of Grand Master La Vallette, after whom Valletta is named. (Open daily 9:30am-noon. Free.) Continue down the steps to the Church of St. Lawrence and cross the street to the long waterfront. Grab a drink at one of the pricey cafes on this strip, or walk by rows of swaying sailboats to bulky Fort St. Angelo, which is also clearly visible from Valletta’s Grand Harbour. The Maritime Museum stands on this stretch as well. (Open daily 9am-5pm. €4.66, students €2.33.) Finally, head back toward the bus stop and follow signs to the Malta at War Museum, dedicated to the struggle of the Maltese during WWII. The chief draw is the underground air raid shelter. (☎2189 6617; www.maltaatwarmuseum.org. Open daily 10am-4pm. €7, 16 and under €6.)
Bus 62 goes to Sliema and St. Julian’s (€0.47). Nightbuses run midnight-3am during summer (€1.16). To reach St. Rita’s Steps, get off at the last stop, walk up the road and turn right at the ‘bus terminus’ sign. Turn right again and you’ll see (and hear) the clubs.
Embracing the coast, Sliema and St. Julian’s pulse long after the capital calls it a day. Sliema is the calmer of the two—families stroll and children play along its seaside promenade. The shops and restaurants string their way to St. Julian’s, where hip-hop spills onto the streets and the young and fashionable keep bartenders on their toes until the sun comes up. Fuego Salsa Bar, St. George’s Bay, gets things swinging with free salsa lessons in a tropical themed setting. (Open daily 7:30pm-5am or later. M-W intermediate level salsa lessons, Th-F advanced. Lessons start 8:30pm. 18+. Cocktails €3.70-11.50.) The chief, though short, clubbing stretch is St. Rita’s Steps. Youngsters run inside for cocktails while an older set relaxes at the outdoor tables at Browns, St. George’s Road. (Cocktails €5-9.50.) Those looking for a tamer evening head to Eden Cinemas, only a short walk up St. George’s Road. Fill your belly with tapas at nearby Bar Coon, St. George’s Road. (Open daily 8am-late. €2-8. Cash only.) Groceries are available at Arkadia Food Store, Triq il-Knisja. (Open M-Sa 8am-8pm.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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