In between the bustling metropolis of San José and the muggy rainforests of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí lies the misty mountain village of Vara Blanca. Though transportation to the small town is infrequent, seeing its idyllic beauty is worth the trek, as are the surrounding attractions. Visitors can frolic at the La Paz Waterfall Gardens, with five waterfalls, a hummingbird garden, and the largest butterfly observatory in the world. Patient travelers, or those with access to a 4WD, can also explore the three hidden lagoons of nearby Cariblanco, the 120m San Fernando Waterfall in Chinchona, and the inactive Volcán Poas, as well as the numerous strawberry and coffee plantations around Vara Blanca.
From San José, take a bus from Terminal de los Caribeños, Av. 7/9, C. 12 (☎2222 0610) toward Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí (1.5hr.; 6:30am, 1, 5:30pm), and get off at the gas station in the center of Vara Blanca—or, if you have a more precise destination in mind, ask the bus driver if he can leave you there. From the north, catch the bus from Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí toward San José; make sure to ask for the one that passes through Vara Blanca (2hr; 5, 7:30am, noon, 4:30pm; ¢1000). Since Vara Blanca is spread along the highway, your only option for transport once you arrive at the gas station, besides the infrequent and sometimes unreliable buses, is by foot (watch out for trucks), motorcycle (though risky when raining), or 4WD car. While the main road in Vara Blanca is paved, many of the smaller roads around Volcán Poas and Cariblanco are not. Watch out for the curves; one is actually a 180˚ turn.
Vara Blanca is organized like a “T.” The main road goes east to west, the same direction that the bus from San José travels. Along this road, you will find (in order) Mi Casita, Restaurante Colbert, Restaurante Las Delicias de Tiquicia, the gas station, Cabinas El Arbollito, and then a series of lodges, including Vara Blanca Lodge. The center of the “T” is the intersection at the gas station, where the road heads north past Restaurante Vara Blanca toward Puerto Viejo. Six kilometers north along the road from Vara Blanca toward Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí brings you to La Paz Waterfall Gardens. Another 6km toward Puerto Viejo beyond the waterfalls leads to the village of Chinchona, which contains the 120m San Fernando Waterfall (on the right after the ICE sign; the bus stops at a soda with a view of the falls). The next town is Cariblanco, with three hidden lagoons. The biggest one, 100m north of the gas station and 7km east of the highway, is only accessible by 4WD. Continuing in the same direction, you’ll eventually arrive at the larger towns of San Miguel and La Virgen, with the nearest banks, ATMs, hospitals, and post offices. To arrive at these towns from Vara Blanca, take the bus heading from San José toward Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí and ask to be let off at either town (San Miguel, 1hr; La Virgen, 1½hr.). Vara Blanca has a public telephone across from the gas station.
The supermarket in town, Super Vara Blanca, is about 2km north of Vara Blanca. (☎2482 2650. Open daily 6am-8pm.) Though there are many sodas and food outlets between Vara Blanca and Sarapiquí that sell local strawberries, apples, and cajetas, the town of Vara Blanca has several restaurants of its own.
La Paz Waterfall Gardens. Apart from the pristine, largely untouristed beauty of the area, the biggest attraction for most visitors to Vara Blanca is the extensive La Paz Waterfall Gardens just 6km north of town. The park’s immaculate grounds and themed exhibits—including Latin America’s largest butterfly farm, a serpentarium, a ranarium, an orchid garden, and a hummingbird garden—are reminiscent of an American amusement park. It’s the best of both worlds: rainforest hiking without needing to actually rough it. Tours are available in English and Spanish. Wildlife sightings include toucans and parrots, honey creepers, tanagers, quetzals, sooty robins, mountain Elaenias, and black and yellow silky flycatchers. The complex includes 3.5km of paved hiking trails, including the main attraction: the Trail of the Falls (350m), which offers awe-inspiring views of the four waterfalls of Templo, Magia Blanca, Encantada, and Escondida. From here, you can either press on to the end of the trail, where there’s an impressive view of La Paz Waterfall (the free shuttle at the end of the trail will drop you off at the restaurant), or follow the less-scenic Bernardo’s Trail (550m) uphill back to reception. A map is available at reception. Trails are well-marked, and most people opt to venture around the 70 acres of wildlife and forest without a guide, although guides are available. (To get to the gardens, either continue on the bus from San José toward Sarapiquí to the garden entrance or get off the bus early on your way to Vara Blanca from Sarapiquí. ☎2482 2720, for reservations call 2225 0643 or fax 2225 1082; www.waterfallgardens.com. Prices for private tours depend on the size of group; call in advance to reserve. Park open daily 8am-5pm; last admission at 4pm, though you should show up by 3pm to experience the whole park. Admission US$35.)
Volcán Poás. The other main attraction near Vara Blanca is the active Volcán Poás, which looms in the distance. Visitors can walk around the heavily forested rim of the mountaintop lagoon and enjoy exhilarating views of the fuming volcano on the other side. Be aware that clouds can obscure the view, so try to go on a clear day. ( To get a closer look, a bus leaves from Vara Blanca toward Poás from the gas station at 7am. Get off in the town of Poasito and take another bus at 9:30am that heads to the summit of the volcano. The bus returns from the summit at 12:30pm. Transportation can be a little unreliable, so be sure to ask around before making the trip yourself.)
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