On June 22, 1940, the French government signed the armistice at Rethondes, surrendering to the German military and submitting to Nazi occupation. The Nazis replaced Paris with Vichy (vee-shee; pop. 27,000) as the capital of France, selecting the town for its large hotels and modern telephone system. Under the leadership of Philippe Pétain, a WWI hero, Vichy remained the seat of the Nazi-controlled puppet regime from 1940 to 1944. Today, a tiny monument to the citizens deported from Vichy during the Occupation stands in the shadow of a much larger WWI memorial, but the town is otherwise nearly devoid of vestiges of these dark years, suggesting an eerie historical amnesia. Instead, Vichy’s lacy ironwork and Belle Époque architecture recall its pre-war days, when the town’s mineral-rich hot springs, still popular with curistes worldwide, drew royalty, celebrities, and the fabulously wealthy.
Cheap eateries line rue de Paris. Many of Vichy’s restaurants are affiliated with hotels. To avoid paying top dollar, head to the Monoprix supermarket, on the corner of rue Georges Clemenceau and rue Ravy Breton (open M-Sa 8:30am-8pm, Su 9:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-7pm; AmEx/MC/V), or the Petit Casinos at the corner of pl. Charles de Gaulle or on rue de l’Hôtel des Postes (both open M-Sa 8:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-7:30pm).
The only evidence of Vichy’s dark years is a small memorial down the street from the tourist office commemorating the 1942 deportation of 6500 Jews to Auschwitz. Significant WWII buildings are not marked. The best way to see the Nazis’ Vichy is to take the tourist office’s tour .
Sources. Vichy’s real attraction springs from its sources (springs). Due to volcanic forces, the water circulates for hundreds—even thousands—of years deep underground, collecting dissolved mineral deposits before finally bubbling to the surface. These deposits reputedly endow Vichy’s water with certain healing effects for everything from common allergies to indigestion. Just one sip of Vichy’s nectar, however, makes one wonder why people keep coming back for more—its putrid taste is nearly insufferable. The town’s sources, each of which provides water with a distinct chemical makeup and alleged healing effect, are housed in covered fountains at points throughout the city. Close to the centre-ville, Célestins bubbles up free of charge at the fountain on bd. Kennedy. It is said to be good for the skin and, according to a sign at the source, was proven to relieve arthritis by a 1992 Hôpital Cochimin (Paris) study. (Open Apr.-Sept. M-Sa 7:45am-8pm, Su 8am-8pm; Oct.-Mar. daily 8am-6pm.) The nearby Hôpital source, used to cure stomach and intestinal ailments, flows behind the Grand Casino. (Open M-Sa 6:30am-8:30pm, Su 7:45am-8:30pm.) All of Vichy’s spring waters are on tap in the Halle des Sources at the edge of the Parc des Sources. (☎0800 30 00 63. Open Mar.-Nov. M-Sa 6am-7:30pm, Su 7:45am-7:30pm.) Regulars bring their own glass encased in a special woven carrying basket available for purchase at Vichy pharmacies for €8.50. Visitors may purchase a less classy plastic cup on-site for €0.20. Two springs are located within the Halle des Sources: Chomel is the most popular among the hot-water sources, while Grand Grille is the most powerful, with only very small doses advised. Visitors can recover with older curistes in the Parc des Sources. Surrounded by a wrought-iron Art Nouveau promenade and flanked by the Opéra, the space exemplifies Vichy elegance.
Other Sights. The beautiful vitraux (stained-glass windows) and frescoes of Église Saint-Louis merit a visit. The church was given as a gift to the town by Napoleon III in 1865. (Rue St-Cécile. ☎04 70 96 51 20.) Manicured floral displays, swan-filled ponds, and thick trees shade the English-style gardens in the elegant riverside Parc de l’Allier, also commissioned by Napoleon III.
Take a risk at the Grand Café Casino in the Parc des Sources. (☎04 70 97 07 40. Open daily 10am-4am.) Treat yourself to a show at the Opéra, 1 rue du Casino, with your winnings. (☎04 70 30 50 30. Box office open Tu-Sa 1:30-6:30pm, until curtain on performance nights; by phone only Tu-F 10am-12:30pm. Operas €30-60, under 25 €28-54; concerts €21-42/18-26. MC/V.)
 |
 |
 |
 |
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
Facebook
Twitter
You Tube
Foursquare
Newsletter
RSS Feed
Overview