Volcán Tenorio Overview

Although this area was decreed a parque nacional in 1995, the infrastructure necessary to make this grand volcano accessible to tourists and biologists was not developed until 1997. Tenorio, rising up 1916m and extending for 12 sq. km, is now accessible thanks to the growth of nearby Bijagua, where cowboys ride their horses to the few stores dotted along the main road. MINAE has been working hard at its new posts in Río Naranjo and at El Pilón, researching the flora and fauna of the volcano. This unpopulated area is rich with under-explored wonders, including bridges through the rainforest, hot and cold springs, the impressive sapphire blue Río Celeste, and its majestic waterfall. Bijagua is not only a refreshing break from packed hostels but also a chance to get familiar with the tico countryside, as extremely friendly and unoccupied Bijaguans will gladly take interested travelers up to their expansive fincas.

The best way to get to Volcán Tenorio is to rent a car. You can also take the bus from Upala to Bijagua (45min., 7 per day, ¢885). From San José, take the bus heading toward Upala through Cañas, which makes a stop in Bijagua. To get to El Pilón (also called Casona de San Miguel, the entrance and Visitors Center from which hikers can depart for various sights) or Albergue Heliconia (offering three trails as well as tours), you will need to seek out one of the five local (and pricey) taxis; there’s usually one waiting at the bus stop (¢13,000).

Practical Information 

• Banks: Banco Nacional 200m south of the pizzeria on the main road in Bijagua. Open M-F 8:30am-noon and 1-3:45pm.
• Police: The police station, 20m south of Bar Tropical, is open 24hr.
• Medical Services: Though there is a small clinic 30m south of the pizzeria and to the right of Soda El Kiosco, the closest hospital is in Upala. Alternatively, you can direct yourself to the MINAE office in Río Naranjo, 5km south of Bijagua.
• Telephones: Public phones are along the main street (calls to landlines ¢1 per min., cellphones ¢25 per min.), including in front of the bank.
• Internet Access: An Internet cafe (☎2466 8155), lies to the left of Super Payka, 200m down the street across from the police station. ¢350 per hr. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm.

Accommodations 

If you’re just passing by looking for a good, cheap place to sleep, keep on going an hour in either direction to Cañas or Liberia for much better options. There are two cabinas in the town of Bijagua, which are an expensive taxi or car ride away from the most appealing natural sights. While the options in Bijagua are cheaper, staying in the mountains themselves may be more rewarding (and more beautiful). Two hotels hidden in the mountains provide premier bases for exploring the landscape of Volcán Tenorio. Although both are only accessible by car or taxi, their isolation comes as a welcome contrast to Bijagua’s grit, and getting up the mountain will be a hassle even if you stay in town.

• Carolina Lodge (☎2356 1656; www.lacarolinalodge.com), 10km up a windy dirt road 3km north of Bijagua on the right, provides the best lodging in the area. A hybrid of ranch and jungle, winding paths connect cabins and lead to the crystal-clear swimming hole just below a small waterfall. The private cabins of this beautiful eco-resort run without electricity, but the amenities, like delicious, home-cooked meals made from homegrown ingredients and a stone hot tub heated by a wood-burning stove, more than make up for this departure from modernity. The bargain package for 1 night’s lodging includes a horseback or Río Celeste tour, as well as 3 meals. Package US$65.
• Albergue Heliconia Nature Lodge (}/fax 2466 8483; www.lasheliconias.org), closer to Bijagua, offers six rustic rooms with bunk beds for four. The breathtaking view includes Lago de Nicaragua, its islands, and various volcanoes. Tours to Río Celeste, the hanging bridges, Laguna la Danta, birdwatching and much more available. Breakfast included. Singles US$40; doubles US$49; triples US$63; quads US$73. MC/V.
• Cabinas Samora (☎2466 8896), down a dirt road across from the pizzeria, offers 1 spacious, 3-person room in a pleasant home. Internet available. ¢2000 per person.
• Cabinas Bijagua (☎2466 8894), on the main road next to Carnicería Chiguin, has three sanitary, albeit seedy, rooms with private baths. ¢5000 per person.

Food

• Pizzería El Barrigón (☎2466 8602), on the main road 200m north of the bank. Whether passing by Bijagua or staying a week, El Barrigón is an essential pitstop. Rich pizzas are homemade in a gigantic wood-fired oven right outside the dining area at this popular pizzeria. Supreme pizza ¢2500-6000. Open daily 7am-10pm.
• Soda y Marisquería las Tinajitas, on the main road right next to Pizzeria El Barrigón. With exotic plants hanging from the roof’s edges, locals dine on inexpensive specialities like arroz con camarones (¢1900), ceviche (¢1200), and seafood soup (¢1800). Truck drivers commonly stop here on their way up to Upala. Open daily 6am-9pm.
• Albergue Heliconias Restaurante, overlooking Lake Nicaragua and the volcanoes. While the food is good, it’s the view that makes this restaurant worth the trek. You can work off your meal on the 3 hikes onsite. Sopa negra US$3. Heliconias plate, vegetables, salad, mashed potatoes, and choice of meat US$8. Open daily 7am-8pm. MC/V.

Outdoor Activities 

From El Pilón, you can explore a waterfall, hot springs, a mirador, and a small lake. The bright blue Río Celeste creates a 30m waterfall and swimming hole beneath it (about 1.5km from the entrance; be prepared to negotiate steep steps down to the waterfall). From the mirador, you can see volcanoes Tenorio, Montezuma, and Carmela. Continue along the path to Laguna Azul, where Río Roble and Buena Vista meet and cause the water to turn a radiant shade of blue, due to the minerals from the volcano. Misteriosos del Tenorio are hot and cold springs that lie a bit further along the trail, many of which are boiling and bubbling (use caution). There will be a sign that says “aguas thermales.” There is a small section in the river next to the sign that is enclosed by rocks where the hot and cold waters mix to make a soothing bath in paradise. The hot springs are cooler near the river and boiling close to the trail (3hr. hike, a few steep inclines and narrow bridges; US$10). If visitors want to hike to the volcano crater (6hr. hike to the top), they must request special permission from the information center at El Pilón, since many decide to camp and make the trek down the next day. Volunteering opportunities (2-day min., room and board in lodge return), both in the lab and on the trail, are available (contact Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio; ☎2200 0135 or 695 5908; www.acarenaltempisque.org). The Albergue Heliconia Nature Lodge, founded by the Bijagua Community Association, has a 140-hectare private reserve and three on-site trails of different length and difficulty. The Laguna Danta trail leads through moist, tropical forests and cloud forests to a crater that becomes a lagoon in the rainy season (with guide US$13-25 per person, depending on group size). Another trail boasts three aerial bridges, while the third offers a leisurely hike with exotic scenery (1-2hr.; US$3). The lodge also organizes botanical and birding tours as well as tours of Río Celeste (US$8-40). Call ahead for guided tour (☎2466 8483). Albergue Heliconia also has volunteering opportunities that include room and board in exchange for work on the land and giving tours. No minimum time commitment; contact the hotel.