The black cliffs of the Westman Islands (pop. 4000) are the most recent offerings of the volcanic fury that continues to shape Iceland. The archipelago is made up of 15 islands and many isolated rock pillars breaking through the waves; Heimaey is the only inhabited island, hosting Vestmannaeyjar.
Transportation And Practical Information. It’s a good half-day of traveling to reach the islands by bus and ferry from Reykjavík. Air Iceland runs flights to the Westman Islands from Reykjavík’s domestic airport. (☎481 3300; www.flugfelag.is. 20min. Check the website for the occasional steeply discounted net-rate tickets. Those under 25 can get stand-by discounts, often half-price, on all domestic flights.) To get to Vestmannaeyjar from the airport, exit and take a left down the main road—a 20min. downhill walk arrives at the center of town. The Herjólfur ferry departing from Þorlákshöfn is far slower but cheaper than flying. (☎481 2800. 2hr 45min.; departs daily noon and 7:30pm; returns daily 8:15am and 4pm. 2160ISK, student discount during school year.) Buses go from BSÍ Station to the ferry 1hr. before departure and return after landing (1200ISK). The tourist office is on the corner of Heiarðvegur and Standvegur, a block from the docks. (☎481 3322; www.vestmannaeyjar.is. Open May-Aug daily 10am-noon and 1pm-6pm. For other times, call ☎488 2000.)
Accommodations And Food. Many islanders offer space, using their homes as guesthouses which creates an affordable and cozy accommodation option. The centrally located Guesthouse Hreiðrið , Faxastígur 33, is just past the Volcanic Film Show theater on Heiðarvegur. (☎481 1045; http://tourist.eyjar.is">http://tourist.eyjar.is">http://tourist.eyjar.is. Reception 24hr. in summer. Sleeping-bag accommodations 1900ISK; singles 3800ISK; doubles 5800ISK. Low-season reduced rates. AmEx/MC/V.) Guesthouse Sunnuhóll (HI) , Vestmannabraut 28B, has newly renovated rooms with ample space to stretch out after a hike around the island. The reception desk is in Hotel Þórshamar, Vestaunrabraut 28, near the center of town. (☎481 2900; www.hotelvestmannaeyjar.is. Breakfast 900ISK. Linens 700ISK. Free Wi-Fi. Internet 300ISK/30min. May-Sept. Sleeping bag accommodations 2300ISK, with HI discount 1800ISK; in winter 2100/1700. AmEx/MC/V.) Grab groceries at Krónan on Strandavegur. (Open M-Sa 11am-6pm.)
Sights. In 1973, the volcano Eldfell (fire mountain) tore through the northern section of Heimaey, spewing lava and ash and forcing Vestmannaeyjar’s population to evacuate overnight. The 1973 eruption and the destruction it wrought is memorialized in Pompeii of the North, a modern archeological site, which displays unearthed houses destroyed by Eldfell. The outdoor exhibit, which offers perspective on the natural disaster, is still growing as excavation continues. The Volcanic Film Show, on Heiðarvegur, runs a documentary about the eruption. (☎481 1045. 55min. shows daily mid-June to Aug. 11am, 2pm, 3:30pm, 9pm; mid-May-mid-June and Sept.-mid-Sept. 11am and 3:30pm. 700ISK, students 600ISK.) Across the street from the film show, the Aquarium and Natural History Museum, Heiðarvegur 12, feature exhibits on Westman’s sea creatures, birds, and geology. A combined ticket (600ISK) grants access to both attractions, along with the Folkmuseum, on Ráðhúströ, and the medical museum at Landlyst, next to the harbor off Strandvegur. (Aquarium and Natural History Museum ☎481 1997; Folkmuseum ☎481 1184. Museums open May 15-Sept. 15 daily 11am-5pm; Sept. 16-May 14 Sa-Su 3-5pm. 400ISK per site. MC/V.)
Outdoor Activities. Heimaey’s 15 sq. km offer several spectacular hikes. The family run Cafe Kró, Tangagata 7, provides hiking advice, tour offers, Wi-Fi, and caffeine to fuel the journey. (☎488 4884. Coffee 290ISK. Soup 690ISK. Wi-Fi free with drink purchase. Open daily May-Aug 10:30am-9pm. Sept.-Apr. 5pm-9pm. 1½hr. boat and 2hr. bus tours twice daily June-Aug. 3400ISK, students 3000ISK. AmEx/MC/V.) On the western side of the island, the cliff’s edge at Há is a scenic spot. A popular, longer hike (2hr. round-trip) along Ofanleitishamar on the western coast passes two puffin colonies (nesting in mid-Aug.) and a black sand beach, Klauf, where brave swimmers tackle the 12˚C (54˚F) water in summer. Surtsey is the world’s youngest island at 44 years old; look for it in the distance. After a steep climb, the best view awaits on the top of Heimaklettur, the island’s highest point. Neighboring Eldfell can be scaled in an hour, but temperatures reach 180˚C (356˚F) in the caldera. Hidden in the northeast corner of the lava bed is Gaujulundur, a remote garden and elf village protected by a miniature fence (hint: some disbelievers can’t see the elves). To get there, walk east along Strandvegur into the lava bed. Stay on the side of the road and continue until you hit a fork in the road. Take the left fork and walk until you see a sign for the garden. The three-day People’s Feast (Þjóðhátíð) draws a young crowd of 10,000-12,000 to the island on the first weekend in August for bonfires, drinking, and related shenanigans. Reserve transportation and accommodations ahead. A smaller set of festivities during the first weekend of July celebrates the end of the Eldfell eruption.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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