This tiny clutch of establishments, owned in entirely by the decidedly non-budget Grand Chateau, is the foundation of ski operations in Tongariro National Park and is the most immediate base for skiing on the north side of Mt. Ruapehu.
The perky Skotel 3 has—hands down—the finest view of any budget accommodation on North Island. Follow the road between the Grand Chateau and the visitors center for 200m. Bask in all the ski-lodge amenities—Internet, spa, sauna, games, cushy mattresses, and a small communal kitchen. (☎0800 756 835 or 892 3719; www.skotel.co.nz. Laundry. Reservations recommended. Dorms $30; singles and twins $35-60; 4-person cabins $135-160. From July-Sept. dorms $45; singles and twins $45-85; 4-person cabins $180-205.) Set beside a stream just across from the visitors center, the Whakapapa Holiday Park 1, is a favorite among Kiwis. The basic park offers good kitchen facilities and small sites carved out of the overgrown bushes. Spartan bunks fill the backpackers lodge. An on-site store stocks only basic and tramper-friendly groceries. (☎892 3897; whakapapaholpark@xtra.co.nz. Bring bedding. Reservations recommended. Store open daily 7am-7pm; May-June 8am-6pm. Tent and caravan sites $13. Dorms $23; 2-person cabins $46, $14 per extra person; tourist flats $65. MC/V.)
Refined, historic, and upscale, the Grand Chateau Hotel dominates the village both in size and cuisine. Aside from the in-house bar and restaurant at the Skotel, all of the town’s dining establishments are run by the Chateau. Lodge-like Fergusson’s Cafe 1, serves soup, hot quiches, and sandwiches for $3.50-6. (☎892 3809, ext. 8835. Open M-F 7:30am-3:30pm, Sa-Su 7am-4:30pm.) Across the road, the elegant Pihanga Cafe 3, has surprisingly affordable mains ($16-24) like braised lamb. (☎892 3809, ext. 8126. Open daily 11:30am-late. Kitchen closes 9pm.)
Whakapapa Shuttle (☎892 3716) provides winter service from the village to the ski field ($10, round-trip $15); in summer, it becomes Tongariro Track Transport, which runs a daily shuttle to Mangatepopo and from Ketetahi ($20 round-trip). Alpine Scenic Tours (☎0800 872 258; www.alpinescenictours.co.nz) leaves Whakapapa Village for National Park Village (15min., 4:15pm, $15), the Tongariro Crossing endpoints at the Ketetahi and Mangatepopo Carparks (on request), and Turangi ($25). Service can be flexible to accommodate tight schedules, but book in advance. Reportedly, many travelers hitchhike to the ski fields, though Let’s Go cautions against hitching. The Whakapapa Visitor Centre doubles as the DOC; see Tongariro National Park. There are no banks or ATMs in the village and postal services are provided in Fergusson’s Cafe (see above).
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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