Whakatane Overview

The town of Whakatane (FAH-ka-tah-nee; pop. 18,000) entices travelers with its rich natural attractions—the beaches, the climate, and White Island, the ominously smoking volcano 50km offshore.

Transportation. InterCity departs from the Whakatane i-Site to: Auckland (6hr.; daily; $45-56), Gisborne (3hr.; daily 3:40pm; $32-40) via Opotiki (45min.; $15-19); Tauranga (5hr.; daily 11:05am; $47-59) via Rotorua (1hr.; $24-30). For Wellington, catch the bus to Rotorua and connect there. The Bay Hopper cheaply traverses the stretches between Whakatane and Ohope, Opotiki, and Tauranga. (Departs M-Sa 9:25am; $6-11. Check the Whakatane i-Site for more info.) For taxis, call Dial-a-Cab (☎0800 342 522). Rent a bike with Pacific Adventures. (☎0800 467 529. $45 per day; rates negotiable for longer rental.) Although Let’s Go doesn’t recommend it, hitchhikers often head just across the Whakatane River Bridge. The roundabout where Gorge Rd. branches off Commerce St. toward Ohope is considered the best spot for going east.

Orientation And Practical Information. Whakatane is built on drained wetlands between high bluffs and the final bend of the Whakatane River. The commercial center is along The Strand, with Boon and Richardson Streets branching off. Landing/Domain Road, the west entrance of SH2, and Commerce Street are the main routes in and out of town. The  Whakatane i-Site, at Kakaharoa and Quay St., is a trove of area knowledge. (☎308 6058; www.whakatane.com. 30min. free Internet. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm.) Other services include: Westpac Trust, 167 The Strand, between Boon and Commerce St. and housing a 24hr. ATM (☎0800 400 600; open M-Tu and Th-F 9am-4:30pm, W 9:30am-4:30pm); the police, 62-70 Boon St. (☎308 5255); the hospital (☎306 0999), left (south) on King St. from Domain Rd. and right on Stewart St.; a post office, on Commerce St. at The Strand. (☎307 1155. Open M-F 8:30am-5pm, Sa 9am-noon.)

Accommodations And Food. For beachfront views on the cheap, head 7km over the hill to the campsite or motels at Ohope Beach .  Lloyd’s Lodge (BBH) , 10 Domain Rd., combines the hostel experience with a Maori education, offering an intimate hangi and cultural concert once a week ($30). Owner Hare greets all guests with a Maori welcome song. (☎307 8005; www.lloydslodge.com. Internet $2 per 15min. Linens $1. Dorms $24; doubles $56. Cash only.) Under new ownership, Karibu Backpackers (BBH) , 13 Landing Rd., near the corner of King St., more than compensates for its farther-from-town location by providing all the comforts of home. (☎307 8276. Free parking. Free bike use. Internet $2 per 20min. Linens $2. Dorms $23; doubles and twins $56. Tent sites $14. Cash only.) The Whakatane Hotel (VIP) , 79 The Strand, is centrally located with a kitchen and lounge area, but life focuses on the downstairs Irish pub. (☎307 1670; whakatanehotel@xtra.co.nz. Free Internet. Dorms $20; singles $40, with bath $50; twins and doubles $50, with bath $65. AmEx/MC/V.) The Whakatane Holiday Park offers no surprises. Follow Beach Rd. to the end of McGarvey Rd. to find typical facilities, plus a kitchen. (☎308 8694. Reception 8am-8pm. Tent sites and vehicles $12-14. Cabins from $50-90 for 2, $15 per extra person. MC/V.)

For the best fish ’n chips in town ($5.80), head to Hare’s Whare Kai , 122 The Strand, is virtually indistinguishable from other dining options. However, the fish of the day ($18.50) makes a satisfying splurge, and those with shallow pockets can snack on starters ($10.50). (☎308 7429. Open M-Sa 10am-2pm, also W-Sa 6pm-late. MC/V.)

Outdoor Activities. The two biggest attractions in the area are trips to White Island and dips with dolphins. Dolphins Down Under, on the wharf at the end of The Strand, boasts a 95% success rate for swimming with the comedians of the sea. They provide equipment, instruction, refreshments, and even hot showers after the 3-4hr. trip. (☎0800 354 7737; www.dolphinsdownunder.co.nz. $130, children under 13 $120.) Whale and Dolphin Watch, 96 The Strand, runs a similar trip aboard the good ship Taniwha, with an underwater camera system filming the experience. (☎308 2001; www.whalesanddolphinwatch.co.nz. $130, children under 13 $120.) For those who long for isolation, Merry Marine Charters takes kayaks out from Whale Island; it’s only 4hr. on calm seas. (☎307 7260. $90, under 15 $80.) There are three scenic reserves in the small area around Whakatane, providing a number of fine bush walks: Kohi Point, atop the hill over Whakatane, has panoramic views; Ohope Scenic Reserve is home to one of New Zealand’s largest remaining pohutukawa forests; Mokorua Bush Scenic Reserve is a recovering pasture land. The walk around the hill between Whakatane and nearby Ohope Beach is breathtaking but of only moderate difficulty, so it won’t leave you gasping for air. A long walk, the Nga Tapuwae o Toi (Footprints of Toi) connects the three reserves. While the 17km trail can be covered in about 5hr., it may be more enjoyable to split it into three shorter segments; the Whakatane-Ohope route is the most popular. The local Beach Runner bus (☎0800 442 2928) runs from the Whakatane i-Site to Ohope Beach and back (M-Sa 4-5 per day; $1.50 each way).