Wharepapa South Overview

As you drive toward the crossroads of Wharepapa South and the four or five buildings that pass for a “place on the map,” and pat yourself on the back for venturing so far afield. Wharepapa South and its environs hide some of the most affordable adventure sporting on North Island, from rock climbing and flying fox-ing to extreme mountain biking and tramping. Out of the hills tower incredible ignimbrite (volcanic tuft) crags, home to half of North Island’s sport climbing and bouldering. The unique volcanic rock can be tricky even for expert climbers, but bolted routes in the most popular areas allow climbers to get accustomed quickly. Most climbing lies on privately owned farmland; climbers need permission from the owner before ascending. Major climbing areas include Waipapa, Smith Rocks, Wharepapa Crags, and Froggatt Edge; the latter two are owned by Castle Rock Adventure Lodge (see below), whose management charges a $6 access fee. Castle Rock also offers full-day climbing lessons ($100-120) and bike and equipment rental.

The  Castle Rock Adventure Lodge (YHA) , 1250 Owairaka Valley Rd., 2km before the crossroads and 45min. from Waitomo Caves, is one of the reasons that New Zealand hostels have a world-wide reputation. The center caters to outdoor enthusiasts, with access to Froggatt Edge, Wharepapa Crags, and four established biking tracks, and draws loyal patrons from all over North Island for regular weekend trips. The luxurious lodge boasts a beautiful pool deck overlooking the rocks. (☎0800 225 462; www.castlerockadventure.co.nz. Spa. Tennis courts. Mattresses in shed $10; dorms $27; doubles $82. Tent sites $8. $4-5 YHA discount. MC/V.) A surefire way to learn more about climbing in the area is to visit Bryce’s Rockclimbing Centre , 1424 Owairaka Valley Rd. Bryce lets well-maintained rooms to weary climbers as well as providing an infinite source of climbing information. (Dorms $20; private rooms $52 per person. MC/V.) Also at the center is Bryce’s Cafe , which offers the best coffee ($3) for kilometers and is the only food service in “town.” (☎872 2533; www.rockclimb.co.nz. Open daily 9am-4pm. MC/V.)

To reach town and the crags, leave SH3 in Kihikihi and go east on Whitmore Rd. toward Putaruru. After 9km, turn right on Owairaka Valley Rd. heading to Mangakino, which leads 14km to an intersection with Wharepapa South Rd. This intersection serves as the town center, with a store and a cafe. Believe it or not, the Waitomo Wanderer (☎0508 926 337; www.waitomotours.co.nz) will make a daily stop for pre-booked reservations on its way between Rotorua and Waitomo (1hr., $20). Let’s Go does not recommend hitchhiking, which can be very difficult here due to thin traffic. There are no gas, ATM, police, or medical services in this area. The closest proper municipality is Te Awamutu, about 18km away.