Wrocław Overview

Wrocław (VROTS-wahv), the capital of Lower Silesia (Dolny Śląsk), is a graceful city of Gothic spires and stone bridges. The tranquil main square was the last Nazi stronghold on the retreat to Berlin. Today, investment has rejuvenated the city, which enjoys one of the fastest development rates in Poland as tourism rises and cheap airlines turn it into a prime stag party destination.

Transportation And Practical Information.  Trains run from Wrocław Główny, ul. Piłsudskiego 105 (☎071 367 5882), to: Kraków (4hr., 13 per day, 45-85zł); Poznań (2 ½—3 ½hr., 25 per day, 22-55zł); Warsaw (4-6hr., 8 per day, 50-90zł); Berlin, GER (5-6hr., 2 per day, 185zł). Buses leave from behind the train station. From the station, turn left on ul. Piłsudskiego, take a right on ul. Świdnicka, and go past Kosciuszki pl. over the Fosa River to reach the main square. The tourist office, Rynek 14, offers maps (6-16zł), bike rentals (10zł for 1st hr., 5zł per hr. thereafter, 50zł per day; 400zł deposit) and free Internet. (☎071 344 3111; www.itWrocław.pl. Open daily 9am-9pm.) Postal Code: 50-900.

Accommodations And Food. Rooms are plentiful in Wrocław, but reserve ahead for rooms near the center. Check with the tourist office to make reservations in student dorms, which rent rooms June through August (20-50zł). T Mleczarnia Hostel , ul. Wodkowica 5, is less than a 5 min. walk from town square, right across the street from tram/bus stops. With more character than most hotels, Mleczarnia impresses with its handsome furniture, huge rooms, and innumerable antique decorations. (☎717 877 570. Free Internet and linens. Reception 24hr. Dorms 50-50zł. MC/V.) The Stranger Hostel , ul. Kołłątaja 16/3, is opposite the train station on a road perpendicular to ul. Piłsudskiego, on the third floor of an unmarked building (ring buzzer #3). This hostel is a bit of a hike from town, but provides lots of social space and an “entertainment den” where people have been known to get rowdy. (☎071 634 1206. Free laundry, breakfast, and Internet. Reception 24hr. Dorms 50-60zł. AmEx/MC/V.)

T La Havana , Kuźnicza 12, (☎071 786 7071). The tongue-in-cheek presentation of Cuban communism here has made it wildly popular with the locals. (Open M-Th noon-3am, F noon-4am, Sa 1pm-4am, Su 1pm-2am. Reservations recommended on weekends. MC/V.) With its sleek, modern decor, Bazylia , ul. Kuźnicza 42, is more posh than traditional milk bars but still serves reliably inexpensive fare. Prepare for a language barrier if you don’t speak Polish. (Open M-F 7am-8pm, Sa-Su 7:30am-8pm. Entrees 3-9zł. Cash only.)

Sights. The Gothic Ratusz (Town Hall) towers over the Rynek in the heart of the city. The beautiful central street ulica Świdnicka runs past the Rynek. The rotunda containing the 120-by-5m   Racławice Panorama, ul. Purkyniego 11, was the site of an 18th-century peasant insurrection against the Russian occupation. To reach it, face away from the Ratusz, bear left onto ul. Kuźnicza, then turn right onto ul. Kotlarska, which becomes ul. Purkyniego. (☎071 344 2344. Shows 2 per hr. 9:30am-5pm. Commentary available in 5 languages at no extra charge. Open daily Apr.-Aug. 9am-5pm, Sept.-Oct. Tu-Su 9am-5pm, Nov.-Mar. Tu-Su 9am-4pm. 20zł, students 15zł.) The impressive Gothic buildings and winding roads of Uniwersytet Wrocławski (Wrocław University) form the cultural center of the city. Aula Leopoldina, an 18th-century frescoed lecture hall, is perhaps its most impressive sight.

Nightlife. For a lively night, head to T Bezennosc (Insomnia), ul. Ruska 51, where a mannequin dressed as a grey-haired woman gazes eerily down onto patrons in upholstered chairs. Located in the newly-hip part of town and a playing a varied mix of music, this lively club attracts some of Wrocław’s most fashionable. (Cover F-Sa 5zł. Beer 6-8zł. Open M-W and Su 6pm-2am, Th-Sa 6pm-4am. Cash only.) Stop by boisterous alt-rock hideout Niebo Cafe ul. Ruska 51, for a good drink. (☎071 342 9867. Beer 6zł. Open T-Su 1pm-last customer, M 5pm-last customer.) At relaxed bar-cafe Kawiarnia “Pod Kalamburem,” ul. Kuźnicza 29A, enjoy readings and film screenings. (Beer 5-15zł. Open M-Th 1pm-2am, F-Sa 1pm-late, Su 4pm-2am. Cash only.)