Zakopane Overview

The year-round resort of Zakopane (zah-ko-PAH-neh; pop. 28,000) lies in a valley surrounded by jagged peaks and alpine meadows. During vacation season (Jan.-Feb. and June-Sept.), the town fills with skiers or hikers headed for the Tatra National Park (Tatrzański Park Narodowy; 5zł, students 2.50zł).

Transportation And Practical Information. The bus station (☎018 201 4603) is located on the corner of ul. Kościuszki and ul. Jagiełłońska, facing the train station (☎018 201 4504). Buses run to Kraków (2-2hr., 3 per day, 10zł) and Warsaw (8hr., 4 per day, 55zł). A private express line runs between Zakopane and Kraków (2hr., 15 per day, 13zł), leaving from a stop on ul. Kościuszki, 50m toward the center from the station. Trains go to Kraków (3-4hr., 20 per day, 19zł) and Warsaw (8hr., 9 per day, 50zł). To reach the center from the station, walk down ul. Kościuszki, which intersects ul. Krupówki (15min.). The tourist office, ul. Kościuszki 17, has free maps of the town, sells hiking/skiing maps (5-9zł), helps locate rooms, and books English-language rafting trips (70-80zł) on the Dunajec. (☎018 201 2211. Open daily July-Sept. 8am-8pm; Oct.-June 9am-6pm.) Postal Code: 34500.

Accommodations And Food. To find accommodations, look for signs marked “pokój” and “noclegi” that indicate private rooms; owners may greet you at the station. Schronisko PISM “Szarotka” , ul. Notowarska 45G, has small, clean rooms with private baths. (☎018 201 3618; schroniskoptsm@pro.onet.pl. Linens 6zł. Lockout 11pm. Reserve ahead. Dorms 35-50zł, low-season 24-35zł. Cash only.) For a cozier night, head to the Good Bye Lenin Hostel , 44 Chlabowka, just steps from the entrance to the National Park. While farther away from town, the welcoming staff, extensive amenities, and truly rustic atmosphere make the trip worthwhile. (☎018 200 1330; www.goodbyelenin.pl. Breakfast, laundry, linens and Internet included. Dorms 30-45zł, double room 100-110zł. MC/V.) Most restaurants and shops can be found along ul. Krupówki. The live music and regional fare at the kitschy Gazdowo Kuznia , ul. Krupówki 1, always draw a crowd. (☎018 206 4111; www.gazdowokuznia.pl. Entrees 7- 33zł. Open daily 11am until last customer.)

Hiking Near Zakopane.  Kuźnice, south of Zakopane, is a popular place to begin hikes. To get there, head uphill on ul. Krupówki to ul. Zamoyskiego; follow this road as it becomes ul. Chałubińskiego, which turns into ul. Przewodników Tatrzańskich and continues to the trailheads (1hr. from Zakopane center). You can also take a “mikro-bus” (3zł) from the stop in front of the bus station. From Kuźnice, the Kasprowy Wierch cable car takes passengers to the top of Kasprowy Mountain where Poland borders Slovakia.

Trails from Kuźnice are well marked. The Tatrzański Park Narodowy map (7zł), available at kiosks or bookstores, is a useful guide. The   Valley of the Five Polish Tarns (Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich; 1 day) is an intense, beautiful hike. It starts at Kuźnice and follows the yellow trail through Dolina Jaworzynka (Jaworzynka Valley) to the steep blue trail, which leads to Hala Gasienicowa (2hr.). Crowds tend to gather on the steep final ascent to the peak of Mount Giewont (1894m; 6hr.). The mountain’s silhouette resembles a man lying down; you’ll envy him after the climb. From Kuźnice, the moderately difficult blue trail (7km) to the peak has a view of Zakopane, the Tatras, and Slovakia.

Morskie Oko (1406m) is a dazzłing glacial lake. Take a bus from Zakopane (45min., 11 per day, 5zł) or a private minibus from opposite the station (30min., 5zł) to Palenice Białczańska or Polona Palenica. Hike the popular paved 18km loop (5-6hr.) or take the green trail to the blue trail (4hr.) for a majestic view. Donkey carts also take passengers to the lake (30min.; 30zł up, 20zł down).