Perched atop a cliff over the Río Duero, Zamora (pop. 70,000) blends medieval and modern: 11th-century churches rub shoulders with stylish Mango and Zara, while the 12th-century cathedral overlooks modern subdivisions and steel bridges. With more than 20 churches, the city overflows with monuments of religious fervor. But it also has an earthly past, as Zamora was historically one of the most powerful cities in medieval Castilla. Zamoranos have, without a doubt, stayed true to their roots: nearly every plaza venerates Zamora’s infamous historical figures, including the fierce Roman warrior Viriato, who was born here; El Cid, who fled here; and Sancho II, who died here during an attempt to overthrow his sister and claim the crown of Castilla as his own. The nearby town of Sanabria was also the inspiration for Miguel de Unamuno’s famous novella, San Manuel Bueno, Mártir .
The bus station on Av. Alfonso Peña (☎980 52 12 82; 24hr.; lockers €0.85 per bag per day) sends buses to Madrid (2-3hr.; M-F 6 per day 7am-7:30pm, Sa 3 per day 10:30am-5:30pm, Su 6 per day 10:30am-9pm; €13-20), Salamanca (1hr.; M-F 15 per day 6:30am-9:35pm, Sa 10 per day 7:45am-8:30pm, Su 7 per day 8:45am-10:15pm; €4), and Valladolid (1hr.; M-F hourly 7am-8:30pm, Sa 6 per day 8:00am-6:30pm, Su 4 per day 10:30am-8pm; €6). Trains leave C. de la Estación (☎980 52 11 10; 24hr.) at the end of Av. Alfonso Peña to Madrid (3hr.; M-F and Su 4am, 6:47pm; Sa 4am, 2:30pm; €26) and Valladolid (1hr., 8:32am, €7.15). Both stations are a 20min. walk from Pl. Mayor.
To reach the tourist office at Av. Príncipe de Asturias, 1, exit the bus station through the arrival platform and turn left onto Av. Alfonso Peña, which becomes Av. de Tres Cruces. Take a left at Pl. Alemania onto C. Alfonso IX, and then a left onto Av. Príncipe de Asturias. (☎980 53 18 45. Open July to mid-Sept. M-Th and Su 9am-8pm, F-Sa 9am-9pm; mid-Sept. to June daily 9am-2pm and 5-8pm.) There is a second office closer to the monuments at Pl. Arias Gonzalo, 6. (☎987 53 36 94; www.ayto-zamora.org. Open daily Oct.-Mar. 10am-2pm and 4-7pm; Apr.-Sept. 10am-2pm and 5-8pm.) Banco Santander is at Ave. de las Tres Cruces, 31. (Open M-F 8:30am-2pm, Sa 8:30am-1pm.) Municipal police are in the Plaza Mayor in the Ayuntamiento Viejo (☎930 52 50 92). There is a pharmacy in Pl. Mayor on C. Ramos Carrión, 2. (☎980 53 01 62. English spoken. Open M-F 9:45am-2pm and 5-8pm, Sa 10am-1:45pm.) In a medical emergency, head to Hospital Virgen de la Concha, Av. Requejo, s/n (☎980 54 82 00, emergencies 54 82 12). The Biblioteca Pública, Pl. Moyano, has free internet. (☎980 53 15 51. Max. 1hr. Passport required. Open M-F 9am-9pm, Sa 9am-2pm.)
Zamora has a number of options in the old part of the city. Hostal Siglo XX , Pl. del Seminario, 3, a few blocks off the Pl. Mayor, has beautiful, antique rooms and a serene location across from a historic seminary. (☎980 53 29 08 Singles €20; doubles €35. Cash only.) Hostal La Reina , C. Reina, 1, conveniently located right off Pl. Mayor, is also a safe bet, with some rooms featuring TVs and private baths. (☎980 53 39 39. Singles €19-26; doubles €28-35. Cash only.) The Pl. Mayor also houses a number of inviting restaurants. Casa Bernardo , Plazuela de San Miguel, 2, has a terrace right on the Pl. Mayor next to the picturesque Iglesia de San Juan. The entrees (€5-9), tapas (€3-7) and sandwiches (€3-4.50) are fit for any traveler’s budget. (☎980 53 27 41. Open M and W-Su 1-4pm and 9-11:30pm.) Alternatively, El Arbol supermarket, Ave. de las Tres Cruces, 26-28, stocks all the basics. (Open M-Sa 9:30am-9:30pm.)
Zamora’s foremost monument is its Romanesque cathedral, built in the 12th-15th centuries. In the cloister, the Museo de la Catedral features the 15th-century Black Tapestries, illustrating the story of the Trojan War. From the tourist office, go one block up C. del Obispo. (☎980 53 06 44. Cathedral and museum open Tu-Su 10am-2pm and 5-8pm; mass daily 10am, also Sa 6pm and Su 1pm. €3, students €1.50.) Beyond its medieval heritage, Zamora also hosts the contemporary Museo Etnográfico, C. Sacramento, a seven-story glass building just off the Pl. Mayor. The museum has a collection of over 1000 eclectic works that explore life in Castilla y León over the last few centuries. (☎980 53 17 08. Open Mar.-Sept. Tu-Sa 10am-2pm and 5-8pm, Su 10am-2pm; Oct.-Dec. Tu-Sa 10am-2pm and 4:30-6:30pm, Su 10am-2pm. €3, students €1.) The Museo de Semana Santa, Pl. Santa María la Nueva, shows just how significant Holy Week, Semana Santa, is to the city of Zamora. Hooded mannequins guard sculpted floats, used during the romería processions depicting the stations of the cross. The crypt-like setting and collected pieces dating back to the 16th century make this museum one of the eeriest stops in town. (☎980 53 22 95. Open Tu-Sa 10am-2pm and 5-8pm, Su 10am-2pm. €3, under 12 €1.50.)
Twelve striking, recently restored Romanesque churches reside within the walls of the old city. Almost all date from the 11th and 12th centuries, but their ornate altars were added in the 15th and 16th centuries. In Pl. Mayor, the Iglesia San Juan is notable for its marble-veined windows. Iglesia Santa María la Nueva was the site of El Motín de la Trucha; in 1158 villagers set the church on fire (with the nobles inside) to protest a law giving the nobility priority over the commoners in buying trout. From the Pl. Mayor, walk up C. Sacramento and turn right onto C. Barandales; the church is in Pl. Santa María la Nueva. (All open Tu-Sa Feb.-Sept. 10am-1pm and 5-8pm; Oct.-Jan. 6 10am-2pm and 4:30-6:30pm. Free.) Located directly behind the cathedral is another venerable building of Zamora: El Castillo. Built in the Middle Ages on pre-Roman foundations, the castle of Zamora stands formidably on the cliff overlooking the countryside surrounding Zamora. Although it is not open to the public, the park and area around the castle offer great views of Zamora and the surrounding land.
The tourist office has info on hikes about 25km west of the city. Two popular routes start from Muelas del Pan and Ricobayo de Alba, both of which feature great views and undisturbed countryside. Vivas runs buses from the Zamora station (M-Th 1:30, 5:45, 6pm; F 1:30, 6pm; Sa 1:30pm; return M-Sa 8:30am; €1.10). Trails are well marked, and the hikes are 8-9km each. Going to either town requires an overnight stay, since buses only return in the morning. Pensión Tomasita , Ctra. Alcañices, 90. (☎980 55 32 45. Singles €18; doubles €36.)
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