Zarcero Overview

Named after the aromatic zarzaparilla fruit found in the region, “sweet” Zarcero (pop. 4500) winds through narrow hills and scattered cheese factories. The town was erected as a city in 1918 but had been inhabited by indigenous people for centuries before its consecration. Head city of its cantón, Zarcero is home to a famous Gothic and Renaissance parish church, constructed in 1895 and dedicated to the archangel of San Rafael. Zarcereños take much pride in their divine symbol, which stands decorated with world-renowned topiary creations: bushes clipped in fantastic shapes like dancing animals and double arches. Tourists come just to see these botanical creations, but there is more to discover in the cuna (cradle) of organic agriculture, including three protected areas: Parque Nacional Juan Castro Blanco to the northeast, Zona Protegida Río Toro to the east, and Zona Protegida El Chayote to the southeast.

Amid steep mountain passes, Zarcero lies on the road connecting the northern plains of Costa Rica to the capital, and as a result has very good transportation running between San José and Ciudad Quesada. Coming from San José, take a bus headed to Ciudad Quesada, which stops in Zarcero. (☎2256 8914. Ciudad Quesada 2hr., every hr. 5am-7:30pm, ¢1300; Zarcero 1hr., ¢730.) All buses out of Zarcero leave from the southwest corner of the parque. In addition to San José and Ciudad Quesada, buses run frequently to San Ramón. (☎2445 6251. 1hr., 8 per day 5:50am-5:30pm, ¢450; return buses 7 per day 7am-7pm, ¢450). Taxis (☎463 2161) line up in front of the pizzeria on the south side of the parque.

Orientation And Practical Information

Zarcero is a linear town with all its shops on the main street. Facing the church, right is south and left is north.

• Tourist Information: Available from Luis Fernando Blando, the owner of Cabinas La Pradera (☎2463 3959) and from the tourism board (☎8827 0477; www.zarcero.co.cr; info@zarcerotours.com).
• Banks: All have 24hr. ATMs.
• • Banco Nacional (☎2463 3190), 100m north of the parque, next to the Red Cross. Open M-F 8:30am-3:45pm.
  • Banco de Costa Rica (☎2463 3333; fax 2463 3232), 100m south of the southwest corner of the parque, changes AmEx and V traveler’s checks. Open M-F 8am-4pm.
  • Coocique (☎2463 3815), 100m north of the parque on the main road. Open M-F 8am-5pm, Sa 8am-noon.
• Police: The police station (☎2463 3231, emergency 911) is 75m east of the northeast corner of the park.
• Red Cross: The Red Cross is across from Coocique (emergencies ☎2463 3131).
• Pharmacy: Farmacia El Parque (☎2463 1212), on the west side of the parque. Open daily 7am-8pm. AmEx/MC/V. Farmacía Zarcero (☎2463 3855), on the south side of the parque. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 8am-2:30pm. V.)
• Hospital: Hospital Carlos Luis Valverde Vega (☎2443 5388), 40min. away in San Ramón.
• Internet access: Available at the Internet Café (☎2463 0020), across the street from Banco de Costa Rica. ¢400 per hr. Open M-Sa 8am-9pm, Su 10am-8pm.
• Post Office: The post office (☎4236 3276), 100m north of the northeast corner of the parque. Open M-F 8am-noon and 1-5:30pm. Postal Code: 4350.

Accommodations

• Hotel Don Beto (☎2463 5909; www.hoteldonbeto.com), on the north side of the church. This quaint, cozy hotel has 8 beautifully designed rooms with floral linens, paintings, and great views. They offer lunch and transportation to Bajo del Toro and Termales del Bosque, 2 nature attractions that can be hard to reach without guides or tours. Reservations are recommended. Singles US$28; doubles with bath and cable TV US$33, with twin beds, bath, and cable TV US$39. 10% discount for payment in cash. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• Cabinas La Pradera (☎2463 3959; www.cabinaslapradera.com), 100m north and 350m east of the salón comunal. 4km outside of Zarcero, in the small town of Laguna. Check in at the green house west of the guardia rural. There are 9 cabins in a variety of configurations. The owner runs horseback riding tours to the Palmira waterfall (US$30; includes snack and souvenir). Cabin with double bed US$25, with fireplace US$40; triple US$37; quad with kitchen US$45.

Food

Stock up at Super Alfaro Ruiz, at the bottom of the hill on the main road, 400m north of the north corner of the parque. (☎2463 1593. Open M-Sa 7:30am-8:30pm, Su 8am-6pm. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.) Don’t miss these prototypical Zarcero foods: queso tierno (soft local cheese), natilla (custard), and toronjas rellenas (stuffed grapefruits), all made in the factory at La Esperanza. For delicious bread and sweets, visit one of the local bakeries.

• Fresh Mountain Cafe (☎2463 3196), across the street from the southwest corner of the parque. Enjoy a meal and coffee (¢400-900) while gazing out the windows at the whimsically shaped bushes on the lawn and at the local paintings and sculptures decorating the walls. Sandwiches ¢1000-2500. Tilapia ¢3000-3250. Crepes ¢2000. Open M-F 8am-8pm, Su 8am-2:30pm.
• Isidro’s Restaurante El Higueron (☎2463 3187), a bar and restaurant that serves típico meals, including casados (¢1800) and fish plates (¢2900). As long as you don’t have a heart condition, you can try their wonderfully greasy chicharrones (fried pork on a stick ¢3500). Open daily 10am-2am. AmEx/MC/V/US$/¢.
• Soda Jiffys (☎2463 2715), 100m south of the park on the main drag. Offers tasty fare in a colorful locale. Tacos and fajitas ¢2200-2300. Nachos ¢1000-1300. Open daily 10am-10pm. MC/V/US$/¢.
• Panadería la Marinita, 150m north of the northwest side of the garden. Offers a number of delicious breads and baked goods. Open M-Sa 5:30am-8pm, Su 6am-noon. MC/V/US$/¢.
• Panadería Berrocal (☎2463 3820), on the southwest side of the parque. Has a wide selections of donuts, bizcochos, and cajetas . Open daily 5am-8:30pm.

Sights

For local entertainment, people flock to the large pool and hot tub in APAMAR, 500m south of the parque, for relaxation and rehabilitation. (☎2463 3674. Open daily 8am-3pm. ¢1000, children ¢700.) The nearby Toro Amarillo waterfall is 120m tall, but since it is difficult to find, it’s best to go in a taxi (¢6500) or with one of the tours offered by nearby hotels. There is a US$10 entrance fee. Coopebrisas is one of two cheese factories near Zarcero, 20min. north of town. To get there, take a taxi (¢5500 round-trip), and ask to see the production manager who can answer all of your questions and show you the cheese-making process. (☎2463 3044. Open M-Sa 7am-noon and 1-6pm, Su 7am-noon; call in advance to make sure the office will be open. Free tours; cheese about ¢2000 per kg.)