Rome Ancient City

It's a shame that eating's necessary. Well, not really, but since everyone has to do it—and nearly everyone in Rome comes to the Ancient City—restaurants in this region are often overcrowded and overpriced. For the best deals, avoid places closest to the sights and meander down some of the quieter streets.

Pizzeria da Milvio, V. dei Serpenti 7 (☎06 48 93 01 45), A sign that reads, “40 Types of Pizze e Pane,” hangs above this pizzeria's bright red walls, a little reminder to passersby that this is the spot for variety, convenience, and flavor. Architecture students crowd the casual stools in back for simple primi like pomodoro con riso (€5) and secondi (€6) served from hot trays. Up front, the friendly servers cut dozens of thin-crust pizzas into slices sold by weight. Be ready to eat on the go; lunch is the busiest hour. From V. Cavour, turn onto V. dei Serpenti and walk 2min. Open daily 7am-midnight. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
La Cuccuma, V. Merulana 221 (☎06 77 20 13 61), Even if you're not sitting at their outdoor tables, La Cuccuma's warmly colored walls, arched ceilings, and airy interior will make you feel like you're in the warm Roman sun. The €9 fixed meal (primi, secondi, contorni, and bread) is hard to beat with huge portions. Still, this restaurant threatens to outdo itself, selling thin-crust pizza by the kilo to hungry students looking for a meal on the go. Generous slices loaded with toppings will set you back less than €4. A: Vittorio Emanuele. Walk down V. d Statuto, and turn right onto V. Merulana. Pizza €8-12.90 per kg. Open daily 11am-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.
Antica Birreria Peroni, V. San Marcello 19 (☎06 67 95 310; www.anticabirreriaperoni.net), Pizza and panini may abound in Rome, but far harder to come by are the German-Italian plates Antica Birreria Peroni has been making for over 100 years. This popular establishment's tiny interior feels a bit like an old-fashioned candy shop—albeit, a candy shop filled with adults instead of children and beer instead of sweets. It is constantly teeming with customers ordering takeout plates like grilled pork sausage (€4) or the smoked pork with sauerkraut (€10). Four types of beer on tap go for as little as €3 to wash down the wurstel (€6.50-13). Be ready to stand or scramble for one of the few stools at the bar. From the Vittorio Emanuele monument, turn right on V. Cesare Battisti, left into P. dei Santissimi Apostoli, and walk 2 blocks down. Open M-Sa noon-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
La Taverna da Tonino e Lucia, V. Madonna dei Monti 79 (☎06 47 45 325), You'll feel like you're in some Italian madre's home as soon as you walk into this local favorite: mouthwatering aromas, a view into the kitchen, and a cork-lined wall full of pictures and lights give La Taverna da Tonino e Lucia its cozy feel. Tight quarters may just have you becoming amiciwith your neighbors at the next table by meal's end, but that's par for the course here where the regulars already know each other. The small menu's limited selection is actually a blessing in disguise—the plates are so good that a bigger selection might make choosing impossible. Try the veal rolls with tomato sauce or the specially recommended paglia ai funghi. B: Cavour. Walk down V. Cavour towards the Fori Imperiali, turn right onto V. dei Serpenti and left onto V. Madonna dei Monti. Pasta €8, meat €9-13. Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
La Carbonara, V. Panisperna 214 (☎06 48 25 176; www.lacarbonara.it), The wall of handwritten comments and the massive collection of wine corks beside it should give you an idea of how long this standby has been around (try over 100 years). Despite its history and fame, La Carbonara has remained well priced and down to earth—just read some of the comments made by customers and family members as you gobble down classics like carciofio alla giulia (fried artichoke) and cacio e pepe (cheese and black pepper). If you like what you get (and you surely will), don't hesitate to scribble your own sweet nothings on the wall. Just try to compose something a bit more poetic than the graffiti on your hostel bunk bed. From S. Maria Maggiore, walk 5min. down V. Panisperna. Open M-Sa 12:30pm-2:30pm and 7pm-11pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
Il Gelatone, V. dei Serpenti 28 (☎06 48 20 187), Il Gelatone deserves every bit of its name: the suffix “one,” which means big, translates to plentiful scoops and an expansive selection of flavors. Twenty-eight types of sorbet, more than 30 creamier gelati, and four flavors of yogurt make ordering hard—it's a good thing even small cones (€2) come with a choice of three flavors. To make matters better (or worse, if you have a hard time making up your mind), you can top off your frosty delight with anything from meringue to pistachio to fresh fruit, whipped cream, and chocolate. From the Fori Imperiali, walk up V. Cavour and make a left onto V. dei Serpenti. Cones or cups €2-4. Open daily 10am-10pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
Gelateria Ornelli, V. Menetura 232/233 (☎06 48 91 30 66; www.ornelli.it), Gelaterie in Rome may be common, but ones serving varieties as unique as soia (soy) and homemade yogurt are not. Try a refreshing cup of yogurt and fresh fruit (€2.50) or a frozen variety topped with your choice of crunchy additions, such as cereal. For the less adventurous, more than 30 “regular” flavors are served in generous form and topped with panna. From S. Maria Maggiore, walk down V. Merulana. 2 flavors with whipped cream €1.50, 3 flavors €2. Fruit cups €2.50-4.50. Open daily 11am-11:30pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
Hostaria i Buoni Amici, V. Aleardo Aleardi (☎06 70 49 19 93), Hand-decorated plates, countless bottles of wine, and quirky paintings line the walls of this tightly-packed, locally loved spot where buoni amici do indeed come to dine and drink. The plaid-covered tables are small, but the servings are large; pasta plates like bucatini with bacon, cheese, and chili are hot in more ways that one (€7). B: Colosseo. From the Colosseum, take V. Labicana; then take a right on V. Merulana and a left on V. Aleardo Aleardi. Primi €7-8; secondi €7-12. Open M-Sa 12:30-4pm and 7:15pm-midnight. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Hostaria da Nerone, V. delle Terme di Tito 496 (☎06 48 179 52), There's something golden about this place—whether it's the yellow decor, the sunny outdoor seating, or the stellar food, this place radiates quality. Etchings of the Colosseum and a menu fit for a gladiator will remind you that this ancient landmark is nearby. Full of intriguing (some might say squirm-inducing) meat dishes such as buttered brains with mushrooms (€12), Ostaria de Nerone's list of dishes will pique the curiosity of Rome's most carnivorous visitors. Walk off the heavy meal with a stroll through Domus Aurea, which awaits you right across the street. B: Colosseo. From the Colosseum, take V. Nicola Salvi and turn left onto V. Terme di Tito. Primi €9.50-10; secondi €7-12. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 7-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Wanted "Il Posto Ricercato", V. dei Serpenti 166-168 (☎06 48 93 01 18), In accordance with this restaurant's name, their homemade desserts, Moretti beer served on tap, and, oh yeah, food are indeed "wanted" by those who frequent the place. Colorful beer flasks and decorative lights—some of which are nearly 2 ft. tall—line the spacious interior that includes a wooden pizza oven and a covered patio in back. While eating hearty plates like pasta bags stuffed with cheese, pears, and walnut sauce (€9). You'll probably be eyeing the freshly baked desserts sitting in the central glass display case or maybe, on a hot summer's day, the beer beckoning from the bar. From V. Cavour, turn right onto V. dei Serpenti; restaurant is on the right. Primi €8-9; secondi €8-18. Pizza €5.50-9.50. Open daily noon-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Luzzi, V. San Giovanni in Laterano 88 (☎06 70 96 332), With the Colosseum in plain sight and plenty of overpriced restaurants in the vicinity, Luzzi is a welcome relief. Plastic menus and chairs, a lively staff, and no-frills outdoor seating give this restaurant an unassuming vibe that matches its modest prices and playful photos of Rome that adorn the walls. Inside, small tables crowd around an open brick over where your pizza is likely being cooked to hot perfection, but if you're feeling a need for pasta, try out Luzzi's take on the classic pasta all'amatriciana. B: Colosseo. From the Colosseum, walk down V. San Giovanni in Laterano about 5min. Cover €1. Primi €5-7; secondi €5-11. Open M-Tu noon-midnight, Th-Su noon-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.