Rome Centro Storico

Catering to hungry tourists, restaurants in the Centro Storico tends to be overpriced. Your best bet for a quick meal is to head to a panificio, pasticerria, or pizzeria and eat your grub in a nearby piazza. For a sit-down meal, try to wander down narrow and out-of-the way streets rather than stay in more central regions.

Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara, Largo dei Librari 88 (☎06 68 64 018), We're glad that some places never change. Despite its fame and hordes of customers—families and fancily clad couples alike—Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara has remained reliably excellent. The piazza fills with the sound of chatter from those who dine and those in line. The unadorned interior gets even louder with the sound of happy customers. It won't be hard to make an order: the one-sheet menu features only salad, antipasti, and the classic fried cod fillet. Plus, nearly everything is €5, so feel free to leave your calculator at home. Draft beer (€2.50 per pint) and wine might make the wait seem shorter. Once you've eaten at this simple eatery, you'll be convinced that patience is a virtue, or at least the path to a good meal. From Campo dei Fiori, walk down V. dei Giubbonari and turn left onto the tiny Largo dei Librari. Salads, Open M-Sa 5:30-11:30pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Forno Marco Roscioli, V. dei Chiavari (☎06 68 64 045; www.anticofornoroscioli.com), If you can find a stool at this bakery, grocery, and fresh food “deli,” grab it, or else you'll be forced to eat standing at one of the beer barrel tables outside (which frankly, isn't too bad an option). Most people grab a slice of something to go—a strip of thin-crust pizza or kranz, a flaky, twisted roll with almonds and raisins. But the best deals are Forno's fresh plates of primi, like its cold rice salad and hot tomato gnocchi, which customers order at the counter according to portion size as they stealthily nab one of the coveted stools. At only €5-7 a plate, this Forno's prices beat those of any restaurant around. From Campo dei Fiori, walk down V. dei Giubbonari and turn left onto V. dei Chiavari. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access.
Gelateria Del Teatro, V. di San Simone 70 (☎06 45 47 880), Ever wondered what makes Italian gelato so darn good? Well, much like Willy Wonka, the friendly owners here offer customers a peek into the magic makings of their product—and it really is a teatro-tastic experience watching fruit and milk get churned into creamy perfection. The result of Gelateria Del Teatro's alchemy? Over 40 flavors of truly unique gelato, and the owners pride themselves on individually developing each one. After the show, indulge in varieties like garden sage with raspberry, lemon cheese cake, or ricotta, fig, and almond, which, if you hadn't seen it made, would seem like the result of some superhuman culinary feats. From P. Navona, turn left onto V. dei Coronari and look for the tiny V. di San Simone on the left. Free tours offered for groups; call (or unwrap a golden ticket) to reserve a spot. Credit cards accepted for purchases over €20. Cones and cups €2-8. Open daily noon-midnight. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has air conditioning.
Pizzeria da Baffetto, V. del Governo Vecchio 114 (☎06 68 61 617), At Pizzeria da Baffetto, the doors stay sealed and the menu stays hidden until the server lets you in. When the doors do open, a cloud of warm, pizza-infused air slips out to tempt the many eager patrons waiting in line. The service here may be brusque, but that's because they need a Soup Nazi demeanor to control the crowds waiting for a table. This pizzeria cooks up some of the best pizza in the city, served in a no-frills, packed dining room. While you're in line, check out the drawings and letters plastered on the restaurant's window by loving customers—a decorating motif that seems to double as a tactic to keep you from seeing inside. From P. Navona, exit onto P. Pasquina and continue as it becomes V. del Governo Vecchio. Long waits and no reservations; arrive early if you want a table. Pizza €5-9. Open M-W 6:30pm-12:30am, Th-Su 6:30pm-12:30am. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Cul de Sac, P. Pasquino 73 (☎06 68 80 10 94), When it's so close to Rome's most famous piazza (P. Navona), it's surprising that Cul de Sac's fresh mix of international flavors is the only touristy thing about the place. Though Roman classics abound, the “international thing” seems to be catching on: try the escargots alla bourguignonne (€6.60), an order of baba ghanoush (€6.20), or a cup of hot chocolate made with cocoa from Ghana, Ecuador, Venezuela, and Trinidad. The cool marble bar up front is surrounded by hundreds of wine bottles to pair with the dishes on the diverse menu (written in four languages). Wooden benches and the vine-decorated walls and floors create a laid-back, picnic feel. From P. Navona, walk onto P. Pasquino. Open daily noon-4pm and 6pm-12:30am. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Pizzeria Tavola Calda, C. Vittorio Emanuele II 186/188 (☎06 68 80 62 29), Haphazard and playful decor creates a relaxed vibe in which to gobble down some really fine food. Though pizza is sold by the slice, the best deal is to order a “sort of” round pie and cheap beer (€2) and eat at one of the colorful tables. Classic primi, changed daily and priced by portion size, are dished up from behind the counter. As casual and fun as the guys who work here, this place is “lunch on the go”—just at a table. From Campo dei Fiori, head towards C. Vittorio Emanuele II. Round pizza €3.50-6, by the slice €9-14 per kg. Open daily 10am-10pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
Il Corallo, V. del Corallo 10/11 (☎06 68 30 77 03), Even on a warm night, every table inside Il Corallo will be full, and the outside patio will have filled up long ago. The warm aroma is enough to draw you in the first time, and the generous portions will hook you for good. Their seafood specialties, like the creamy stock-fish mousse or pasta with orange and crab (€13), offer creative twists on classics. Sandy-colored brick and dark wooden rafters give the place a cozy, tavern-y feel. From P. Navona, exit onto V. di Sant'Agnese di Agone; continue as it becomes V. di Tor Millina, and veer left looking for V. del Corallo. Open daily noon-3:30pm and 7pm-1am. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Antica Trattoria de Pietro al Pantheon, V. dei Pastini (☎06 67 89 940), In a stream of “classic Italian restaurants” on the way to the Pantheon, this place stands out in both age and value. The friendly owner—who's taken on the family business that began in 1842—doesn't let the crowds perturb him. And now, yes, it's time for all the classics: grilled meats and pastas (most of which are homemade), antipasti, and wine. The menu may consist of old standbys, but they're doing something different here: serving quality food at a good value in a neighborhood that all too often caters to (and takes advantage of) a tourist crowd. From P. della Rotonda outside the Pantheon, turn onto V. dei Pastini. Open daily noon-3:15pm and 6:15-11:15pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
La Locanda del Pellegrino, V. del Pellegrino 107 (☎06 68 72 776; www.lalocandadelpellegrino.it), Slow down at this relaxing Meditteranean restaurant for some grains that are (finally!) not in the form of spaghetti: the chef's specialty is a two-person plate of couscous with vegetables or fish. Even if you opt for a smaller dish, fish and veggies will remain the theme in unique combinations like cavatelli with artichoke sauce, saffron and pinoli, or a plate of octopus and potatoes. The dim hanging lights and calming music might just have you convinced that the Mediterranean Sea is lapping at the door. Exit Campo dei Fiori into P. Teatro di Pompeo and look for V. del Pellegrino on the left. Primi €8-20; secondi €13-19. Couscous special €45 for 2 people. Open daily noon-3:30pm and 6:30pm-midnight. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
Il Fornaio, V. del Baullari 5/7 (☎06 68 80 39 47), Take a break from that gelato diet and try one of the decadent pastries stacked high at this bakery. Their foresta al cioccolato is exactly what it sounds like—a forest of shaved and flaked chocolate dusted with confectioner's sugar. If you're tired of the savory ravioli found on every restaurant menu, try their famous variation, the ravioli ricotta cioccolata, a large "pouch" stuffed with ooey gooey goodness. From P. Navona, head to C. Vittorio Emanuele II; V. dei Baullari is just off of it. Cookies €18 per kg. Cannoli and sweet ravioli €2. Pizza €7-18 per kg. Calzones €2.50. Open daily 8am-10pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
Sant'Eustachio Il Caffe, P. Sant'Eustachio 82 (☎06 68 80 20 48), Before even stepping inside this tiny cafe (and you'll probably be outside for a while, as it's often packed), you'll smell its signature product. Now, they do coffee well in Italy generally, but at the age of 72, this place has reached a level of superbness that shines even by Italian standards. Served sweet (request before ordering if you don't want sugar), the drinks here come in decadent varieties such as mousse al caffe (€2.70-6.50) or granita al caffe (€4-6.50). While you probably won't make it like they do, they sell their beans by the kg if you want to give it a shot (€24-26 per kg). Drink your joe while standing, or pay as much as €2 more to enjoy it at a table outside. From the Pantheon, head onto Salita de Crescenzi and make an immediate left into P. Sant'Eustachio. Look for a crowd and sniff around for coffee. Capuccino or coffee €2.40 at bar, 4.90 at table. Pastries €1-3. Open M-Th 8:30am-1am, F 8:30am-2am, Su 8:30am-1am. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.