Rome Piazza Di Spagna

Between Prada, the Spanish Steps, and the teems of tourists frequenting both, it might be hard to find a tasty and economical bite midday. For lunch, try heading to panifici (bakeries) or pizzerias and eating on the piazze. For dinner, veer onto smaller streets for better quality and service, even if it will cost you a bit more.

Gusto, V. della Frezza 23 and P. Augusto Imperatore 9 (☎06 32 26 273; www.gusto.it), The difference between good taste and bad is as clear as black and white—and by taste we mean flavor and style. Black-clad waiters whisk around Gusto's white, brick interior that's divided between a wine lounge and a sit-down restaurant opening onto P. Augusto Imperatore. Tall mirrors make the place feel even bigger than it is, but petite tables near the bar bring it back to life-size for you and your date. On the piazza side of things, your best bet is one of the stellar pizzas cranked out of their open brick oven. The real action (and the best deal), however, is to be found at the bar during nightly happy hours: Gusto's buffet of gourmet treats like vegetable couscous and curious black-bread tramezzini is better than a sit-down meal. If it weren't for the accompanying cocktails, you'd swear your mom was feeding you right out of her kitchen. Directly across from Mausoleo Augusto on the Happy hour buffet with drink €10. Pizzeria and restaurant are on Open daily 10am-2am. Happy hour daily 6-9pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Fraschetteria Brunetti, V. Angelo Brunetti 25b (☎06 32 14 103; www.fraschetteriabrunetti.it), Save your messiness for a melting gelato after dinner—there'll be no greasy pizza fingers or spaghetti mishaps here. Instead, Fraschetteria Brunetti focuses primarily on baked pasta dishes, including 11 types of lasagna in varieties that you won't find anywhere else; try the rich gorgonzola and walnut. Covered in handwritten notes from loyal patrons, this place is legit, managing to avoid jacked-up prices and watered-down cuisine despite its proximity to the sights. A: Flaminio. From P. del Popolo, exit onto V. di Ripetta and turn right onto V. Angelo Brunetti. Fixed lunch of entree, coffee, and drink €7.50. Open M-Sa 11am-midnight, but may close earlier or later depending on the crowd. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
Cambi, V. del Leoncino 30 (☎06 68 78 081), Better than a cheapo pizzeria and cheaper than a sit-down restaurant. The mix of salty and sweet scents perfuming the area has most folks starting with a loaded slice of pizza and following it up with a €1 fruit torte. But don't overlook their real specialties: unleavened bread (hard bread lightly doused in oil) and crostata (cookies filled with chocolate or fruit). When you see tourists paying three times the price down the street, your meal will taste even better. From Ara Pacis/Mausoleo Augusto, walk down V. Tomacelli and turn right onto V. Leoncino. No seating. Only vegetable oil used. Also sells basic groceries. Cookies €0.80, €33 per kg. Panini €3.50. Pizza €7.50-15 per kg. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has air conditioning.
Bar San Marcello, V. D. San Marcello 37-8 (☎06 69 92 33 15), Don't let the curt service turn you off from this small tavola calda, a lunchtime favorite among local workers. The ratio of Italians to tourists means you won't hear much English as you munch on fresh pasta salads, grilled fish, or panini. Take advantage of the linguistic discrepancy: with the Trevi Fountain right around the corner, you can easily get your full share of English chatter for the day just a short walk away. From Palazzo Venezia, take V. del Corso; turn right onto V. Santissimi Apostoli and left onto V. di San Marcello. Takeout available. Limited seating in back. Panini €3.50-4. Open daily 6am-5:30pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
Fiaschetteria Beltramme, V. della Croce 39, When a restaurant has managed to limit its menu to one page and survive for over 100 years without a phone, you know it's doing something right. Don't expect creative culinary concoctions but classic dishes made with family love. Their cacio e pepe might be some of the best in the neighborhood, and locals will let you know it when you end up sitting next to them in the restaurant's close quarters. We're glad that despite the modern fashion flash surrounding it, this traditional standby hasn't changed. A: Spagna. From the Spanish Steps, take V. Condotti; turn right onto V. Belsiana and right onto V. delle Croce. Primi €10; secondi €15-18; verdure and contorni €6-10. Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
Naturist Club, V. della Vita 14, 4th fl. (☎06 67 92 509), Like its street name, this restaurant is all about “la vita”—that is, saving a few vite by serving up an entirely macrobiotic menu. Climb up four well-worn flights of stairs (which might be part of the health kick) to enjoy totally atypical Roman fare like ravioli stuffed with creamy tofu and pesto (€8) or seitan escalope with grilled vegetables (€9). Despite their exotic twists, dishes here taste like they might have been made at any one of the trattorias down the street. Those skeptical of macrobiotic food might find that this place changes their mind. Directly off V. del Corso around P. San Lorenzo in Lucina; turn right onto V. della Vita from V. del Corso and look for #14. Buzz and walk to 4th fl. 90% organic and totally macrobiotic; fish is the only non-vegetarian option. Open M-F 12:30-3pm and 7-10:30pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
F.lli Fabbi, V. della Croce 27-28 (☎06 67 90 612; www.fabbi.it), Save your euro for Dolce and Gabbana down the street, and get your real dolce on the cheap at this corner deli. A few slices of their prosciutto di parma and mozzarella di bufala along with some homemade pesto (all sold by weight) make the perfect snack to be enjoyed in the piazza down the way. If all that food has inspired your inner chef, pick up some homemade ravioli or gnocchi and a bottle of imported olive oil for the stove. The store also sells grocery staples like milk and beer. A: Spagna. Walk down V. della Croce. Homemade pasta €8.80-22 per kg. Cheese €8.95-23 per kg. Smoked meats €14.30-27.30 per kg. Open M-Sa 8am-7:40pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.