Rome Jewish Ghetto

Though the Jewish Ghetto is one of the smaller neighborhoods in Rome, it is rich in fine cuisine and character. Most restaurants are on V. del Portico d'Ottavia, and while not exactly cheap, they are a great alternative to classic Italian fare if that's all you've been eating. Most are kosher and closed early Friday through Saturday.

Antico Forno del Ghetto, P. Costaguti 31 (☎06 68 80 30 12), You don't have to resort to a slice of pizza in order to avoid the overpriced plates of a sit-down restaurant: grab a loaf of to-die-for bread, a few slices of smoked meat, and a hunk of cheese at this family-run neighborhood staple instead. Locals flock to the small store to buy anything from fresh pasta to cookies and milk to a hot slice of flatbread or focaccia topped with veggies. From Ponte Garibaldi, walk down V. Arenula, turn right onto V. di Santa Maria del Pianto and into P. Costaguti. Only pizza and bread guaranteed kosher. Cheese, bread, cookies, and meat sold by lb. Pizza and focaccia €1.20-2 per piece, €7.70-9.70 per kg. Open M-F 7:45am-2:30pm and 5-8pm, Sa-Su 7:45am-1pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
La Taverna del Ghetto, V. del Portico d'Ottavia 7/b-8 (☎06 68 80 97 71; www.latavernadelghetto.com), The small dining area out front might have you thinking that this is an intimate cafe with Middle Eastern music and delicious food to match. But head around the block, and you'll see that this popular spot opens up into an expansive dining space that can play host to bigger parties and more festive dining. The first kosher restaurant in Rome, La Taverna del Ghetto is an expert in the classics: baccalà (fried catfish), fiori di zucca,and any variation of artichoke. Soy-based desserts are dairy-free and pleasantly mild after an otherwise heavy meal. From Teatro Marcello, walk down V. del Piscaro and veer right as it becomes V. del Portico d'Ottavia. Strictly kosher. Open M-Th noon-11pm, F noon-4pm, Sa 9-11pm, Su noon-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.
Pasticceria Boccione Limentani, V. Portico D'Ottavio 1 (☎06 68 78 637), This tiny, unadorned pasticceria doesn't need the cuteness factor to promote itself: its small assortment of baked goods is strong enough to bring customers running, no advertisements needed. Only about four products are made here—freshly baked tortes and a range of biscottini with nuts and fruits—so all you have to do is know what you want, order, and enjoy. Right on the corner of V. Portico D'Ottavio; look for numbers, as it's practically unmarked. Cookies around €18 per kg. Tortes €18-22 each. Open M-Th 7:30am-7:30pm, F 7:30am-3:30pm, Su 7:30am-7:30pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
Kosher Bistrot Cafe, V. Santa Maria del Pianto 68/69 (☎06 68 64 398), This cheerful and brightly lit cafe doubles as an early evening spot for cocktails and an anytime spot for delicious kosher food. Picnic-like wooden tables on the street are often full of locals munching on finger food with their wine or enjoying fuller plates like curry chicken with artichokes. The modern interior has a full bar and a few shelves with packaged food items for sale. From Ponte Garibaldi, walk up V. Arenula and turn right onto V. Santa Maria del Pianto. Open M-Th 9am-9pm, F 9am-sundown, Su 9am-9pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Nonna Betta Cucina Kosher, V. Portico d'Ottavia 16 (☎06 68 80 62 63; www.nonnabetta.it), Famous for its fine selection of Roman kosher food, this bustling restaurant is great for a sit-down meal. The handwritten menu has an ample selection of vegetarian plates like baked artichokes with mozzarella—in fact, artichokes are in nearly every dish (look for carciofi alla giudia). If you're seeking a lighter plate, consider an order of baba ghanoush of hummus (€3) or a focaccia stuffed with falafel (€6). Pictures of the old ghetto lining the walls and an amiable staff eager to discuss the history and significance of the fried artichoke will remind you of this neighborhood's rich history. From Teatro Marcello, walk down V. del Piscaro and veer right as it becomes V. del Portico d'Ottavia. Primi €8-11; secondi €9-18. Open M-Th 10am-3:30pm and 6:30-11:30pm, F 10:30am-3:30pm, Su 10am-3:30pm and 6:30-11:30pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Pane Vino e San Daniele, P. Mattei 16 (☎06 68 77 147; www.panevinospa.it), You won't see the classic primi and secondi format at this dark and diverse enoteca and restaurant. Instead, the menu features plates with regal names like the piatto del re (a large plate of raw prosciutto) or la duca. All the food and wine on the menu hails from the San Daniele region, and there is an ample selection of polenta plates as well as sformato, an egg-based casserole stuffed with vegetables, cheese, and meat. Sea-green walls and dark wooden tables scattered throughout the low-ceilinged, dimly lit space create a grandiose but quirky feel. In P. Mattei. Salads €7-8.50. Open M-Sa 9:30am-2am. Kitchen closes at 10:30pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning.