Rome Vatican City

The longest line in Rome eventually becomes a hungry crowd. The selection of neighborhood trattorias and small stores that lines the quieter streets outside the Vatican walls won't disappoint, but the bright English menus and beckoning waiters closer to the museums will.

Cacio e Pepe, V. Avezzana 11 (☎06 32 17 268; www.cacioepeperistorante.com), If you're in the area (and by that, we mean as far as 1 mi. away), it will be well worth your time to trek to this true trattoria. Welcoming owner Gianni will personally seat you and make sure your cacio e pepe (fresh egg pasta topped with oil, grated cheese, and black pepper) is everything it should be: big, flavorful, and perfectly al dente. Its popularity with locals instead of tourists has kept the vibe casual and the service as good as the food—and that's saying a lot. A: Lepanto. From Metro, walk up V. Lepanto (away from the Vatican), turn right on Vle. delle Millizie and left onto V. Avezzana, a 5min. walk. Open M-F 12:30-3pm and 7:30-11:30pm, Sa 12:30-3pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.
Old Bridge Gelateria, V. Bastioni di Michelangelo 3/5 (☎06 38 72 30 26; www.gelateriaoldbridge.com), Gelato so sinfully good you might need to visit the Vatican just to confess it. Despite being practically on the doorstep of the most touristed sight in the city, this hole-in-the-wall gelateria has thankfully remained just that. It's tiny and unadorned yet amazingly good. Beware: lines may rival those of St. Peter's, but the size of your order (huge) will make the wait worthwhile. Off P. Risorgimento and across the street from the line to the Vatican Museums. Cones €1.50-3; cups €3-4. Open M 3pm-2am, Tu-Su 9am-2am. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
Fa Bio, V. Germanico 43 (☎06 64 52 58 10; www.fa-bio.com), If you're going to pay €4 for a panino, it may as well be organic, right? And if all that pizza and gelato have you craving something green, then Fa Bio will be your Eden. Just walking in, you'll be refreshed by the smell of blended smoothies and fresh salads alone. Organic pie (€1.50), hearty tofu salads (€4.50), and bread that is, for once, not white, are enough to sustain you for a full afternoon of sightseeing. If you still need a pick-me-up after the 4hr. waits, re-energize with “L'energizzante,” a potent shake of milk, pear, ginger, and cacao. A: Ottaviano. Walk down V. Ottaviano and turn left onto V. Germanico. All food organic. Panini €4. Salads €4.50. Cookies €0.50-1. Fruit juices and smoothies €3.50. Open in summer M-Sa 9am-8pm; in winter M-Sa 9am-5pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has air conditioning.
Fabbrica Marrons Glaces Giuliani, V. Paolo Emilio 67 (☎06 32 43 548; www.marronglaces.it), This is the kind of place you visit first for yourself, second to do some gift-shopping for friends back home, and third..for yourself again. The shop's old school '40s feel adds to the delight of ordering your sweet confections from the family owners. Their specialties—marron glacés (candied chestnuts) and chocolate—are the perfect match of sweet and rich. Though they may not survive a boxed trip home to your folks, the candied fruits are stellar—shiny and big as crown jewels. A: Lepanto. Take Vle. Giulio Cesare toward the Vatican and turn left onto V. Paolo Emilio. Open in summer M-Sa 8:30am-1pm and 3:30pm-7:30pm; in winter M-Sa 8:30am-8pm, Su 9am-1pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has air conditioning.
Forno Tacio, V. Tacito 20 (☎06 32 35 133), If melting gelato is making your hands sticky, try a warm pastry from this local bakery and grocer. Their waffle-shaped ferratelle cookies (€15 per kg) are mild and crispy, while their flaky fiocchetti twists are a lighter alternative to the standard croissant (€0.85). To slow the sugar rush, excellent pizza (less greasy and better priced than the standard slice) and bread are great taken hot or cold. A: Lepanto. Walk down V. Ezio and continue straight as it becomes V. Tacito. Also sells basic groceries. No seating. Pizza €7-13 per kg. Cookies €9.50 per kg. Fruit and cream tarts €1.50 each. Open M-F 8am-2pm and 5-8pm, Su 8am-2pm and 5-8pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
Le Arancine, V. Marcantonio Colonna 38 (☎06 32 02 395), Diverge from the standard pizza lunch and try this bright orange restaurant's namesake product, the arancino, a fried rice ball stuffed with mozzarella, meat, or vegetables. Named for their resemblance to an orange (arancia), these rich balls are anything but sweet. The "vulcano" is a savory blend of black cuttlefish pasta and fresh tomatoes. If even the more mainstream arancine are too much for you, their substantial selection of other fried goodies like crocche (potato with cheese) and pizza are safe bets. A: Lepanto. Walk down V. Marcantonio Colonna. Arancine €2.20. Pizza €9-15.50 per kg. Calzones €2.30. Open daily 9am-1am. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
Wine Bar De' Penitenzieri, V. dei Penitenzieri 16/A (☎06 68 75 350), Before hitting the inescapable nest of pizzerias surrounding the Vatican, grab a bite at this small but hugely popular lunch spot. The stand-up bar makes it easy to munch on a panino (€4-5) and sip your cappuccino (€0.90-2.50) without having to pay for table service. A rotating list of classics—mostly pastas and salads—is reserved for those who nab a seat in the adjoining room. If you don't want real sustenance, have a cocktail instead. Hey, you're not in St. Peter's yet. From St. Peter's, take V. della Conciliazione toward the river, turn right onto V. dei Cavalieri del San Sepolcro, and keep straight as it becomes V. Penitenzieri. Open M-Sa 6am-8:30pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
L'Archetto, V. Germanico 105 (☎06 32 31 163), Tired of the same old pizza toppings and overpriced slices? Order one in the round from a menu that trumps the regular list. Try L'Archetto's namesake specialty with cooked mozzarella, arugula, sausage, and peppers or, for a smaller bite, an order of bruschetta (€1.50-2.80). Though the setting might not be anything special, their lunch special—€8 primo with a choice of soup—makes the pizzeria popular with the economically minded and hungry midday crowd. A: Ottaviano. Walk V. Ottaviano toward the Vatican and turn left onto V. Germanico. Bruschette €1.50-2.80. Pizza €3.50-8. Open daily 12:30-3pm and 7pm-midnight. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.