Rome Trastevere

There are plenty of dining options in Trastevere, whether you want a luxurious sit-down meal, a bite on the go, or something in between. While the piazze are full of great choices, explore smaller side streets for some of the harder-to-find gems.

La Renella, V. del Politeama 27 (☎06 58 17 265), La Renella is as close to a true neighborhood eatery as you're likely to find, with locals coming here at all hours of the day for everything from their morning bread to lunchtime pizza to after-dinner cookies. The handwritten menu looks like it hasn't changed for years, but with Roman classics like the fiori di zucchini (huge orange zucchini flowers topped with anchovies and cheese), why should it? The wall is covered in flyers for local events, apartments for rent, and job offerings, so if you're not in the mood to eat, at least come in to browse through the neighborhood happenings. You may not walk away having found a new apartment, but in all likelihood, you'll have succumbed to the tempting call of La Renella's marmalade-and-chocolate fagotini cookies (€14 per kg). From P. Trilussa, walk down V. della Renella; the front entrance is here, but there's also a back entrance on V. del Politeama. Pizza €5-12 per kg, sweet tortes and crostate €10-18 per kg, biscotti €10-16 per kg. Open daily 7am-10pm (closing time can be variable). Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
Siven, V. San Francesco a Ripa 137 (☎06 58 97 110), There's hardly a moment of the day when someone isn't entering or exiting this tiny spot, where cheap pizza and hot pasta primi are sold by weight. Lasagna, gnocchi, eggplant parmigiano, and calzones would make meals on their own, but most people come away with a few slices of thin-crust pizza, loaded with all the standards—think zucchini, potatoes, mushrooms, or steak. There's nowhere to sit and the service is fast, so be ready to eat on the go. And make sure you know what you want, or you'll just get in the way of the regulars behind you. From Vle. Trastevere, turn right onto V. San Francesco a Ripa. Pasta €0.75-0.80 per etto, calzones €2.50, pizza €1-1.30 per etto. Open M-Sa 9am-10pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
Le Fate, Vle. Trastevere 130 (☎06 58 00 971; www.lefaterestaurant.it), Inspired by the fable of Aurora, this festive restaurant has taken on the themes of love and solidarity in both its ambience and the quality of its food. The warmly lit dining area has the feel of a woodland cottage, with a bookshelf of cookbooks in the corner, twinkling star lights, and a string of vines covering the wall. All ingredients come from Lazio, so you can expect especially fresh plates; the homemade gnocchi with steak, cream, spinach, and ricotta is as rich in flavor as Princess Aurora was in gold. Students who aren't blessed with riches like the fairytale heroine should take advantage of the €10 meal, complete with bruschetta, pasta, dessert, and a glass of wine. Just say the magic word (or show your student ID). About 15min. down Vle. Trastevere from P. G. Belli. Free Wi-Fi. Inquire about cooking classes and apartment rentals for students. Open daily 6-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning.
Pizzeria da Simone, V. Giacinto Carini 50 (☎06 58 14 980), After a long trek up to Ponte Acqua Paola and the surrounding gardens, there's no better way to replenish yourself than with a hot slice of Da Simone's pizza. Pies topped with anything from shrimp to the more classic sun-dried tomatoes and mozzarella di bufala go for about €1.50-4 per slice. Down the counter, you'll find freshly made pasta dishes, steamed vegetables (€12-16.90 per kg), and huge legs of chicken (€3) that are filling enough to be a complete dinner. If you're hoping to grab dinner here, be ready to take your food and make a picnic of it in the park, as there's no seating. From the Porta San Pancrazio on Giancolo Hill, walk downhill on V. Giancinto Carini for about 7min. Pizza €6.96-16.90 per kg. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
Casetta di Trastevere, P. de Renzi, 31/32 (☎06 58 00 158), Inside is like outside at this budget-friendly restaurant. A hanging clothesline, painted Italian facade and terra-cotta rooftop transform the spacious interior of Casetta di Trastevere into just what its name implies—a casetta, or little house. Upstairs, a banquet-size table serves especially large groups, but downstairs, smaller clusters of students consistently fill the tables. With the cheapest pizza in town (marinara pie €3), this little house is a very, very, very fine house, allowing you to save your euros for Trastevere's teeming nightlife just down the street. From S. Maria in Trastevere, walk down V. di Piede until you hit V. della Pelliccia. P. de Renzi is just beyond. Pizza €3-6. Open daily noon-11:30pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Biscottificio Artigiano, V. della Luce 21 (☎06 58 03 926), With piles on piles of freshly baked cookies, this place seems more like a factory than a humble bakery. With no seats or decorations to speak of, Biscottificio Artigiano's success rests solely on its scrumptious cookies and ever-growing reputation. (Note the wall of newspaper clippings.) Try the paper-thin stracetti—a slightly sweet cookie made from nuts and eggs. Family-run for over a century, this bakery cooks with recipes that are like no one else's in Rome. From P. Sonnino, take V. Giulio Cesare Santini and turn left on V. della Luce. Most cookies €7.5-16 per kg. Rustic and fruit tortes €15. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm and Su 9:30am-2pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access.
Hostaria Dar Buttero, V. della Lungaretta 156 (☎06 58 00 517), Amid hanging tools, framed sketches and paintings, dangling lamps, and polaroid snapshots, you'll find classic Roman cuisine at this popular local lunchtime spot. The eclectic decor speaks to the owner's time spent collecting artwork and furniture throughout Italy, the fruits of which have been assembled into a cozy nest of a restaurant. Specialties of the house include Rigatoni alla Buttero, a rich dish of pancetta, mushrooms, and tomatoes covered in parmesan and butter (€8). If your eyes need a break from the impressive array of objects inside, head to the peaceful indoor garden that is covered in vines. From P. San Sonnino, turn left onto V. della Lungaretta. Pizza (evenings only) €5-7. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 7-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
Ai Spaghettari, P. San Cosimato 57/60 (☎06 58 00 450; www.aispaghettari.it), With photos of Alberto Sordi and Al Pacino lining the walls, this place is obviously loved by at least a few Italians. Since 1896, Ai Spaghettari has served a hearty mix of meat and seafood on its casual patio overlooking the small piazza. Don't fill up on the huge selection of bruschette (€2.50-4) before you try the restaurant's classic “Ai Spaghettari” pizza, which is topped with tuna, arugula, balls of fresh cheese, and tomato (€9). Rivaling the menu, huge barrels of wine just inside the building make this a viable alternative for late-night drinks. From Vle. Trastevere, turn right onto V. San Francesco a Ripa and then left onto V. Natale d. Grande until you reach P. San Cosimato; veer right on the Open M-Tu 5pm-12:30am and W-Su noon-12:30am. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
Il Galeone Corsetti, P. San Cosimato 27 (☎06 58 09 009; www.corsettigaleone.it), A galleon-turned-cruise ship, this elegant restaurant serves seafood in style. Jazz, stripped white wood, and waiters in matching uniforms give the place an upscale, though relaxed, feel. The spaghetti alla corsetti (seafood in white sauce; €16) comes highly recommended when paired with one of over 100 wines hailing from Trentino Alto-Adige, Campania, and everywhere in between. From Vle. Trastevere, turn right onto V. San Francesco a Ripa, and left onto V. Natale d. Grande until you reach P. San Cosimato; restaurant is on the center-left side of the Open daily noon-3:30pm and 7:30pm-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.
Vin Allegro, P. Giuditta Tavani Sonnino (☎06 58 95 802; www.vinallegro.it), “Eat and drink in happiness” is the motto here. A bottle of wine tops each of the tiny tables both inside and out on the vine-covered patio, but there are 18 pages worth of options and bookshelves full of bottles if the one on your table isn't enough. While a full dinner menu ensures that you're not drinking on an empty tank, recommended wine pairings all the way through dessert will keep you feeling just fine as live jazz and blues start around 10pm. From P. Sidney Sonnino, walk down V. Gustavo Modern and turn left onto P. Giuditta Tavani Arquati. Full buffet with drink €7 during happy hour. Free Wi-Fi. Open daily 11am-2am. Happy hour 5-9pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.