Rome Ostia Antica

An immense archaeological park, Ostia Antica is an ideal environment to experience ancient Roman life away from the crowds in the Roman Forum. According to legend, Ostia was founded in the seventh century BC by King Ancus Martius to protect the ostium (mouth) of the Tiber River from would-be invaders. As the years progressed, Ostia blossomed into Rome’s busiest commercial port. The Tiber’s sedimentary deposits have pushed this former seaside spot 4km from the coast. Nevertheless, Ostia continues to awe travelers with its extensive and intimate ruins —an unparalleled glimpse into Roman life.

The necropolis, located on V. Ostiense outside of the city walls, greets visitors upon entering the ruins. Tombs vary in size and simplicity, depending on the economic standing of the deceased. V. Ostiense ends at the Porta Romana, the entrance to the ancient city, which was once guarded by two towers. From here, Decumanus Maximus, the city’s main road, leads to the forum. As you walk down Decumanus Maximus, an amazing AD first-century statue of Minerva graces the left side, followed by the horrea (warehouses), where everything from grain to perfume was stored. Farther down on the right lie the Terme di Nettuno (Baths of Neptune). Walk up the steep stairs to see the magnificent black and white mosaic of Neptune riding a quadriga of hippocampi, mythical creatures with the heads of horses and bodies of fish. Continuing down the main road, an ancient enoteca, as well as the teatro, built by Agrippa and enlarged by Commodus and Septimus Severus. Inside, 4000 Romans would enjoy lewd plays filled with obscene puns, performed strictly by men wearing brown masks for male roles and white masks for female roles. Two millennia later, the theater continues to entertain Romans during the summer.

The forum lies at the center of the city, with the imposing Capitolium dominating the piazza. Merchants, politicians, and travelers used to flood this formidable center of global commerce in its glory days. In addition to baths, a 20-person foriza (latrine) remains well preserved. Make a right on V. dei Mollini to reach a small museum containing sarcophagi, busts, and Roman copies of Greek statues found among the ruins. Besides being a great place for a game of hide and seek, Ostia Antica offers a personal, engaging look into Rome’s history, away from the mobs of tourists and honking horns of the Fori Romani and Imperiali. Wear sturdy, comfortable shoes, as the ancient streets are often uneven and rocky. (Museum ☎06 56 35 02 15. Ruins open daily Apr.-Oct. 8:30am--7pm, Oct.-Nov. 8:30am-6pm, Nov.-Feb. 8:30am--5pm; Mar. 8:30am-6pm. Parking €2.50. Maps €2 at ticket booth. Museum open Tu-Sa 9am-1:15pm and 2:15-6:30pm and Su 9am-1:15pm. Last entry 1hr. before closing. Ruins and museum €6.50, EU citizens ages 18-25 €3.25, under 18 and over 65 free.)

Ostia is accessible from B-Piramide (€1). At the top of the stairs, turn left and follow signs to Ferrovia Roma-Lido. Your Metro ticket includes the t ride to Ostia Antica (30min., every 15min. daily 5:40am-11:30pm). After disembarking at Ostia Antica, exit the station and cross the road using the blue pedestrian footbridge. Walk down V. della Stazione di Ostia Antica and cross Vle. dei Romagnoli; the entrance is on the left at the end of V. degli Scavi di Ostia Antica. The ticket booth is on the right, after the parking lot.