Rome Pontine Islands

The Pontine Islands (pop. 4000), a stunning archipelago 40km off the coast of Anzio, offer both striking beauty and intriguing history and lore. These small islands were once believed to be home of the sorceress Circe, who captured and seduced the Greek hero Odysseus and transformed his crew into pigs. Nero was exiled here and Mussolini cast enemies of the state into the 30 million-year-old volcanic residuum, only to be imprisoned here himself. The cliff-sheltered beaches, turquoise waters, coves, tunnels, and grottoes have also provided pirates a place to unwind after pillaging and plundering. You’ll be hard-pressed to find an English speaker in this isolated area.

Transportation. The Pontine Islands are accessible by aliscafi (hydrofoils) or slower cheaper traghetti (ferries). The closest port to Rome with service to the islands is Anzio. Take the Termini-Nettuno train to Anzio (1hr., every hr. 6am-11pm, €3.20). From the station, head downhill on V. Paolina, then go through P. Battisti onto V. dei Fabbri, and through the next piazza to C. del Popolo. Or take a taxi from the station to the quay (€10). From the port, take the CAREMAR ferry to Ponza (2hr.; M-F 8:45am, Sa 8:30am, Su 8:30am and 3pm; Ponza to Anzio M-Sa 5:15pm, Su and holidays 11am and 5:15pm; €23.40). The CAREMAR ticket office is in the white booth labeled “traghetto” on the quay (☎06 98 60 00 83; www.caremar.it) and in Ponza (☎07 71 80 565). The Linee Vetor hydrofoils are smaller, faster, and leave more frequently. If you take one, however, you’ll miss the glorious views that the ferry affords you (1hr. 20min, 2-6 per day, €27-35). The Linee Vetor ticket office is on the quay in Anzio, at no. 40 (☎06 98 45 083; www.vetor.it; open 1hr. before departure) and on the dock in Ponza (☎07 71 80 549).

Accommodations And Food. If you’re planning on spending the night, the island of Ponza is your best bet. You may not be surprised to learn that accommodations there are expensive. Remember, however, that food is also quite steep. It’s an island, so everything has to be shipped in. The exception is fish, which is fresh and readily available at many of Ponza’s restaurants. Ponzans aren’t so keen on street numbers, and that the pace of island life doesn’t lend itself to fixed opening and closing times. Piccolo Hotel Luisa , V. Chiaia di Luna, is up a street with lots of twists and turns; follow the little signs for the hotel. It’s a charming, family-run, bungalow-style beach hotel with clean, all-white rooms and lovely whitewashed sundecks. B-grade and single rooms are somewhat smaller, more like traditional hotel rooms, and a less expensive option for two people. (☎33 93 21 26 19; www.piccolohotelluisa.it. A/C. Breakfast included. Free internet. Prices fluctuate widely by season. Singles €50-120; B-grade doubles €70-140; A-grade doubles €80-160. Extra beds add 30%. AmEx/MC/V.)

Ristorante Eea , Salita Scarpellino, is up another winding street; follow the signs or call for help with directions. Romantic and somewhat dressy, it serves great seafood along with what is possibly the best terrace view on the whole island of Ponza. Prices reflect the location and the quality of the food and service. Seafood pastas, including one with swordfish, are great for those who just can’t decide between ordering a primo or a secondo. (☎07 71 80 100. Primi €11-17. Fish secondi €22-27. Open lunch and dinner. AmEx/MC/V.) Bar Tripoli , C. Pisacane, is an ultra-relaxed island hangout perfect for long cocktail hours. Generous snacks at aperitif time, €4 prosecco, the chance to people-watch quirky locals, and the best outlook on the harbor of all of C. Pisacane’s bars—could you ask for anything more? (☎07 71 80 98 62. Open through the afternoon and evening. Cash only.) The waterfront restaurant and bar La Kambusa , V. Banchina Nuova, sells hot and tasty filled cornetti, which go great with a caffé (together €2.50) from the counter towards the back. (☎07 71 80 280. Open daily from 8am until after dinner. Cash only.)

Islands. The most accessible and well-supplied island is Ponza, with superb beaches and cheerfully colored cliffside residences. As of this writing, Chiaia, a beautiful beach 10min. walk from the port, was closed. Ask if it’s reopened; if not, locals recommend Spiaggia di Frontone as a substitute; it’s about a 20min. walk. A beautiful if slightly pulse-quickening bus ride (€2.40; buy onboard) around hairpin turns and blind drives leads to what is perhaps the island’s most appealing feature, the glorious Piscine Naturali. Take the bus to Le Foma and ask to be let off at the piscine, or just follow the throngs of people who get off there. Facing the water, the bus stop is to your left, along V. Carlo Pisacane, just past the San Antonio Tunnel, about 3-5min. from the quay; look for the blue buses. Once you exit the bus at the Piscine stop, go down the long, steep path—it’s marked by signs. It takes approximately 5-10min. to get to the bottom of the hill. Cliffs crumbling into the ocean create a series of deep, crystal-clear natural pools separated by smooth rock outcroppings perfect for sunbathing. Snorkeling, exploring the rocks, and jumping off the cliffs will make you feel like a modern-day Jacques Cousteau. (The last of these activities is somewhat dangerous—exercise caution and good judgment.)

The western-most Pontine island is Palmarola; it features irregular volcanic rock formations and steep, white cliffs. To get to Palmarola, rent a boat (from €45 per day), or take one of the boat tours advertised at the port. The tiny island of Zannone is home to a wildlife preserve. Try Cooperativa Barcaioli Ponzesi, in the San Antonio tunnel off V. Carlo Pisacane, for boat tours. (☎07 71 80 99 29. Open 9am-midnight. Tours vary in length and price; first leaves 9am, and last returns at 8pm. Reservations necessary.) Tours of Zannone, which is part of the Circeo National Park, take visitors around the coast, with time for walks through forests filled with wild sheep and excursions to the medieval, legend-filled San Spirito monastery.