Rome Sperlonga

Sperlonga (spehr-LON-ga; pop. 3102) served as Emperor Tiberius’ imperial getaway until he moved to Capri in AD 26. Well worth the trip from Rome, Sperlonga’s curving, whitewashed streets lead through cobblestoned piazze to sparkling sands and sapphire waters. While stabilimenti control some of the town’s beach, there’s little reason to pay their fees unless you must have color-coordinated beach chairs and umbrellas. The public shore, which is free, is just as spectacular.

Be proud: you’re now part of a long and illustrious tradition of daytrippers to Sperlonga. Tiberius used to invite his wealthy Roman friends to enjoy a Tyrrhenian vacation with him. The Emperor and his pals would chill inside his seaside speluncae (grottoes), which gave the town its name, and which you’re more than welcome to inspect today. A few feet away from the grottoes is the modern and well-exhibited Museo Archelogico, V. Flacca 16,600km, where you can see the statuary ruins of Tiberius’ villa. The nautically-themed collection represents scenes from Homer’s Odyssey including the blinding of Polyphemus the cyclops and the attack on Ulysses’s boat by the monster Scylla. (10-15min. walk from P. Europa. ☎07 71 54 80 28. Open daily 9:30am-7:30pm. €2, under 18 and over 65 free.)

Sperlonga also served as a refuge for those fleeing barbarian attacks on Rome in the AD sixth century—watchtowers along the coast remain from this period of unrest. In 1534, the town was destroyed by Barbarossa, and it wasn’t until the 18th and 19th centuries that Sperlonga regained its popularity as a vacation spot. At its mid-20th century peak, it attracted guests like Albert Camus, Marlene Dietrich, and Andy Warhol. While some of the glitter has faded, Emperor Tiberius’s villa and fish-filled grottoes remain popular sights for all who visit this beach getaway.

Trains run daily from Rome to the Formia station (1¼-1½hr., 2-3 per hr., €7.40). From the station, take the blue COTRAL bus (30min., 7-11 per day, €1) to Sperlonga. Purchase tickets at the station’s tabaccheria. Get off at P. Europa at the top of hill, or, for those wishing to hit the beach, at any of the stops along Vle. Cristoforo Colombo. In P. Repubblica, there is a tabaccheria that sells tickets for COTRAL buses. Facing the tabaccheria, the street to the right of the piazza, V. Ottaviano, winds its way down to the sea and to Vle. Cristoforo Colombo. There are also several burrow-like paths and stairways that lead down the hill to the shore. Note that because Sperlonga’s main road is so long, addresses are identified using km rather than plain numbers. However, since the main attractions are fairly close together, you won’t really be walking that far. Facing the cliffside view, hang a left from P. Europa and walk about 30m to get to the Tourist Info Center at C. San Leone 23. There will be a decrepit church to the left and a restaurant to the right. (☎07 71 55 70 00; www.comunedisperlonga.it. Open daily 8am-8pm.)