Rome Anzio

The palm tree-lined V. Paolina runs from the train station to the center of Anzio, past villas that recall the town’s historical prominence as the vacation spot of choice for emperors, popes, and pirates. The vacanza was interrupted on January 22, 1944 when Allied forces launched an attack from the water upon Anzio and the neighboring town of Nettuno, which is 3km to the south. Within six months, American and British troops were marching upon the capital. While Rome fared the war reasonably well, Anzio was decimated during the surprise attack. The town is active in the fishing and shipbuilding industries, and the area around the port boasts a shopping center. The harbor is also a point of departure for the Pontine Islands.

As at Nettuno, much of the prime sand is controlled by stabilimenti, but if you turn right when you get to the shore and walk all the way down Riviera Mallozzi and through the little park at the end, you will find a very appealing swath of public coastline, easily recognizable by its mismatched, colorful beach umbrellas. Aside from cost, this public beach has one striking advantage over its privately controlled neighbors: the ruins of Nero’s Imperial Villa descend onto the beach from the overlooking cliffs. After a day at the beach, you can make your way to the Parco Archeologico della Villa Imperiale di Nerone for a closer look at the remains of the emperor’s characteristically immodest seaside resort. (A 7min. walk down V. Fanciulla d’Anzio; turn right from Riviera Mallozzi onto V. Furio Anziate, and then hang a right onto V. Fanciulla d’Anzio. Open June Tu-Su 10:30am-12:30pm and 5-7pm; July-Aug. 10:30am-12:30pm and 5:30-7:30pm; Sept.-Oct. 10:30am-12:30pm and 4-6pm; Nov.-May 10:30am-12:30pm and 3-5pm. To reserve a guided visit, call ☎06 98 49 94 08. Free.)

Take the regional train from Termini to Nettuno to the next stop. The COTRAL blue bus arrives from and departs for Nettuno in P. Cesare Battisti (6:40am-10pm; €1). The IAT tourist office is at V. Mimma Pollastrini 5, two blocks down P. C. Battisti and to the left. It distributes maps, gives hotel information, and has ferry schedules. (☎06 98 31 586. Open M-W 9:30am-1pm and 3-8pm, Th-Sa 9:30am-1pm and 4:30-7pm, Su 10am-12:30pm and 4:30-7pm.)