Rome Tivoli

Tivoli (TEE-vo-lee; pop. 49,342) is an awe-inspiring hilltop town poised 120m above the Aniene River where poets Horace, Catullus, and Propertius all once had homes along the rocky cliffs. Today, Tivoli is a beautifully preserved medieval city, with narrow, winding streets and panoramic views of surrounding valleys. Though the three main villas listed below are Tivoli’s chief attractions, the tourist office provides a fantastic map detailing lesser known sites, including a 15th-century castle, an ancient Roman amphitheater, several churches, and Gothic-style houses, all within walking distance of the bus stop.

Villa d’Este, a castle and garden, was laid out by Cardinal Ercole d’Este (the son of Lucrezia Borgia) and his architect Piero Ligorio in 1550 to recreate an ancient Roman pleasure palace. The villa is known for the ingenious and abundant fountains, particularly the hydraulic organ. Beneath these famed bubblers lie dank grottoes and three reflecting pools filled with fish. The Fontana di Diana Efesia, a statue of a decaying multi-breasted goddess, lies behind the sprinkler-infested gardens. Additionally, the villa itself has a fantastic collection of frescoes and some modern art. One room tells the tale of Hercules, legendary founder of the house of Este. In the summer, concerts are held on the villa’s grounds. (Walk through the P. Trento’s souvenir stands to reach Villa d’Este. ☎07 74 31 20 70; www.villadestetivoli.info. Open Tu-Su May-Aug. 8:30am-6:45pm; Sept. 8:30am-6:15pm; Oct. 8:30am-5:30pm; Nov.-Jan. 8:30am-4pm; Feb. 8:30am-4:30pm; Mar. 8:30am-5:15pm; Apr. 8:30am-6:30pm. €9, EU citizens 18-24 €6, EU citizens under 18 or over 65 free. Audio tour €4.)

Villa Gregoriana, at the other end of town, is a park with hiking trails that wind over majestic waterfalls and the alleged caves of Neptune and the Sirens. Tivoli’s Temple of Vesta, a better-preserved version of the one in the Roman Forum, can be admired from lookouts. The trail winds down the cliffs to the base of the waterfalls and up across the Valley of Hell, ending at the Temple of Vesta. A nice respite from crowded Rome, the villa has many benches and grottoes for reading and relaxing. Give yourself at least an hour to explore, and wear comfortable shoes. (From P. Garibaldi, walk down V. Pacifici, which becomes V. del Trevio; turn left on V. Palatina and left again on V. di Ponte Gregoriano. Cross the bridge; the entrance to Villa Gregoriana is on the left. ☎39 96 77 61. Open daily from Apr. to mid-Oct. 10am-6:30pm; from mid-Oct. to Nov. and Mar. 10am-2:30pm; Dec.-Feb. by reservation only. €4, ISIC holders €3.20, ages 4-12 €2, EU citizens under 18 or over 65 free. Audio tour €4.)

Return to the square and catch bus #4 (€1) by the playground in P. Garibaldi to reach the remains of Villa Adriana, the largest and most expensive villa built under the Roman Empire. Ask the bus driver to let you off close to the entrance. Emperor Hadrian, inspired by his travels, designed its AD second-century buildings with an international flair. He often retired here to escape bad moods and pursue artistic endeavors. Look for the pecile, built to recall the famous Stoa Poikile (Painted Porch) of Athens, and the canopus, a statue-lined expanse of water built to replicate a canal in Alexandria, Egypt. (6km from Tivoli proper; take the orange bus #4 from P. Garibaldi’s tabaccheria, which sells bus tickets. From the parking lot, head uphill away from the villa until you reach a small COTRAL bus sign. ☎07 74 38 27 33. Open daily 9am-7:30pm. Last entry 1hr. before closing. Parking €2. €6.50, EU citizens 18-24 €3.25, EU citizens under 18 or over 65 free. Archaeological tour €3.50. Audio tour €4.)

From B-Rebibbia, exit the station, turn right, and follow signs for Tivoli through an underpass to reach the other side of V. Tiburtina. Take the blue COTRAL bus to Tivoli (35-45min., €2). Tickets are sold at the tabaccheria right next to the bus stop. Disembark at Ple. delle Nazioni Unite. The return bus to Rome stops across Vle. Arnaldi from the Ple. delle Nazioni Unite stop; it’s right in front of the Giardino Garibaldi, recognizable by its playground and children’s activities. Tivoli is perhaps more easily accessible by train (1hr., €2.30). Exit the train station and make a right, heading down the hill. Cross the roundabout at the bottom of the hill to reach the entrance of Villa Gregoriana. There is a helpful tourist kiosk in Ple. delle Nazione Unite that offers maps, bus schedules, and info on the villas. (Open Tu-Su 10am-1pm and 4-6pm.)