País Vasco Overview

The Basques are thought to have descended from the first Europeans, whose arrival predated that of the Indo-European tribes. Their culture and genes have gone relatively undiluted despite Roman incursions, medieval interference, and finally the Spanish abolition of the fueros, medieval grants of semi-autonomy. The Basques enjoyed a brief return to independence under the Second Spanish Republic, but the Republican defeat in the Spanish Civil War ushered in the Fascist rule of General Francisco Franco, who oppressed the Basques and banned euskera and other forms of cultural self-expression. In 1968, in response to such injustices, the organization Euskadi ta Askatasuna (ETA; “Basque Country and Freedom”) began a terrorist movement that persists today. Anti-ETA sentiment is now quite strong among Basques, but many also argue that the methods employed to suppress ETA undermine free speech and disregard human rights either way. Street protests and graffiti continue to call for amnesty for political prisoners.

Today, most Basques share a desire to preserve their cultural identity. Although castellano is the predominant language, euskera has enjoyed a resurgence since Franco’s death. Traditions like cesta punta or pelota vasca (known outside Spain as the deathly fast sport of jai alai) continue to thrive. Basque cuisine is some of Iberia’s finest, including bacalao a la vizcaína (salt cod in tomato sauce) and dishes a la vasca (in parsley steeped white wine sauce). Tapas, considered a regional specialty, are called pintxos (PEEN-chos); locals wash them down with sidra (cider) and the local white sparkling wine, txakoli. Several famous chefs, including Juan Mari Arzak, hail from this region.