Yucatan Santa Elena

This town, with 4300 Mayan residents, has the basics and then some, including a park and an 18th-century church (once the site of a Mayan pyramid) that boasts magnificent views from its roof. The small local museum, on the top of the hill beside the church, showcases recently unearthed infant mummies dubbed “The Dwarves of Santa Elena” by the local newspaper, along with explanations of ancient Mayan funeral practices. You can also see some small but well-preserved examples of Mayan stone carvings.

Transportation And Practical Information. Buses bound for Palenque via Campeche (7 per day 7:30am-7:30pm) stop on C. 20 in front of the zócalo, as do buses from Mérida (7 per day 6am-8pm) . The Ruta Puuc buses pass Santa Elena on the highway at C. 20, across from the school. They then proceed to the area’s ruins, ending up at Uxmal, but you’ll need a lift or a combi to return to Santa Elena. Be aware that the Ruta Puuc buses are unreliable, since insufficiently full buses are often canceled. Combis from the zócalo go to Ticul as they fill up until 8pm. To reach Grutas de Loltún, take a series of combis going to Ticul, through Oxkutzcab, and finally on to Loltún. Basic services include: police (☎978 5244), at the north end of the zócalo; Farmacia Mirna, one block south of the zócalo on C. 20 (☎978 5048; open daily 8:30am-1:30pm and 5:30pm-9:30pm); and Consultorio Médico next door. Internet is available at @.com, on the corner of C. 19 and 18, uphill from the zócalo. (Open M-F 10am-1pm and 3pm-9:30pm, Sa-Su 10am-1pm and 3pm-9pm.) Laundry and internet also available at The Pickled Onion (see opposite page).

Accommodations And Food. Santa Elena has a few appealing accommodations for travelers along Mex. 261. Be aware that American and Mexican student groups often fill up all the beds in town in late June and early July. Sacbé Bungalows , across highway 261 from the school, has four large suites with private baths and A/C. There’s also a cabin with its own 10 hectare grounds, which can accommodate up to 5 people for between 55 and 85 pesos a day, depending on the length of the stay. A 1500m trail leading from the hotel gives you a chance to spot wetland deer and jungle birds. (www.flycatcherinn.com. Rooms 550-750 pesos. Cash only.) Across the road and only 150m from Sacbé Bungalows is Hotel/Restaurant El Chac-Mool , 500m from town on the road to Kabah, is the last food stop before delving into the heart of La Ruta Puuc. Valerie, the friendly British-Canadian owner, is rapidly expanding her two-year-old business, having recently added a pool, a massage parlor, a hand-washed laundry service, and internet access (20 pesos per hr.). The menu includes vegetarian treats like chaya souffle, traditional Yucatec cuisine, and North American-style salads and sandwiches (52-86 pesos). For 100 pesos, you can also spend the night in the hammock in the massage cabaña. (☎999 223 0708. Open daily 7:30-8:30. 15% discount to anyone who shows Valerie a Let’s Go book. Cash only.) There are also food stands in the zócalo across from the Palacio Municipal.