Sevilla La Macarena

CHURCHES. A stretch of murallas (walls) built in the 12th century lines Ronda de Capuchinos near Pta. de Córdoba. Flanking the west end of the walls, the Basílica de la Macarena houses the venerated Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza, borne through the streets at the climax of the Semana Santa processions. (C. Bécquer, 1. ☎954 90 18 00; www.esperanzamacarena.es. Basílica open M-Sa 9am-2pm and 5-9pm, Su 9:30am-2pm and 5-9pm. Basilica free. Museum €3.50, students €1.50. Mass M-F 9, 11:30am, 8, and 8:30pm; Sa 9am and 8pm; Su 10:30am, 12:30, and 8pm.) Nearby, the Baroque Iglesia de San Luis has an unparalleled stained glass altar flanked by relics, including two skulls. (C. San Luis. ☎954 55 02 07. Open Tu-Th 9am-2pm, F-Sa 9am-2pm and 5-8pm. Free.) Toward the river is Iglesia de San Lorenzo y Jesús del Gran Poder, with Montañés’s lifelike sculpture, El Cristo del gran poder; worshippers come to kiss Jesus’s ankle. (Pl. San Lorenzo. ☎954 915 672; www.gran-poder.es. Open M-Th 8am-1:30pm and 6-9pm, F 7:30am-10pm, Sa-Su 8am-2pm and 6-9pm. Free.)

OTHER SIGHTS. A large garden beyond the murallas and the Basílica leads to the Hospital de las Cinco Llagas, a spectacular Renaissance building recently renovated to host the Andalusian parliament. Thursday mornings, a large flea market is held along Calle Feria. (Th 9am-2pm.) Alameda de Hércules is filled with outdoor cafes, and its side streets burgeon with funky restaurants.

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