Madrid Retiro

With the construction of the 300-acre Parque del Buen Retiro in the 1630s, Felipe IV intended to transform the former hunting grounds into a personal retreat, un buen retiro. Today, “the lungs of Madrid” are a menagerie of art exhibits and magicians, balloon twisters and beer vendors, all attending to the thousands of tourists and locals who’ve come to shake off the sweat and dirt of the city. The Medieval monastic ruins and waterfalls in the northeast corner of the park share space with the spectacular Palacio de Cristal and Estanque Grande, along with a running track, a sports complex with tennis courts and soccer pitches, a rose garden featuring the famous Milton-inspired Fuente del Ángel Caído, and myriad smaller garden plots and plazas.

On weekends, the promenades fill with musicians, families, and young lovers; on summer nights (when only the north gate remains open), the lively bars and cafes scattered around the park come alive with conversation and clinking glasses. Try to avoid the park after dark if you’re alone—a slew of shady characters retire here by night, and the Retiro isn’t well-signposted, making navigation difficult even during daylight. The park is accessible from the Retiro Metro stop. There are four entrances from the south, west, and north: C. Alfonso XII, C. Alcalá, Pl. de la Independencia, and Av. Menéndez y Pelayo. (Park open Oct.-May 6am-10pm.; Apr.-Sept. 6am-midnight. Guided tours every Sa; check in the info kiosk near the Estanque or in the Jardín del Recuerdo.)

Estanque Grande. Amateur rowers young and old haphazardly maneuver their boats around this artificial lake, replacing the gondolas that used to glide across it. The colonnaded mausoleum of Alfonso XII, featuring a marble statue of the horsebacked “Pacificador” (the Peacemaker), is a popular gathering place and a prime spot for people-watching. Paddle away lazy afternoons in a rowboat on the lake or take in puppet shows and street performers on shore. Most Sundays from 5pm to midnight, over 100 percussionists gather for an immense drum circle by the monument beside the Estanque; synchronistic rhythms and hash smoke fill the air. (The Estanque can be reached by following Av. de Méjico from the park’s Pl. de la Independencia entrance. Boats for up to 4 people €4.55 per 45min. )

Palacio De Velázquez. Built in 1883, this Ricardo Velázquez creation has billowing ceilings, marble floors, and tiles by Daniel Zuloaga. The palace exhibits frequently changing contemporary and experimental works in conjunction with the Reina Sofía. (From the Estanque, walk straight to Pl. de Honduras and turn left onto Po. Venezuela; the palace will be on your right. ☎915 73 62 45. Closed for renovation as of 2009; call ahead for hours. Free.)

Palacio De Cristal. A second Velázquez creation built to exhibit flowers from the Philippines in 1887, this exquisite steel-and-glass structure hosts a variety of art shows and exhibits, with subjects ranging from Bugs Bunny to the vocal recognition of bird calls. The little pond out front, with its rowdy family of ducks, has a beautiful reflection of the dome. (From Palacio de Velázquez, head out the main door until you reach the lake and the palace. ☎915 74 66 14. Open Apr.-Sept. M and W-Sa 11am-8pm, Su 11am-6pm; Oct.-Mar. M and W-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 10am-4pm. Free.)

Puerta De Alcalá And Casón Del Buen Retiro. Bullets from the 1921 assassination of Prime Minister Eduardo Dato permanently scarred the eastern face of the Puerta de Alcalá (1778), outside El Retiro’s Puerta de la Independencia. To the south, facing the park, sits the Casón del Buen Retiro, home to the the Prado’s library and a beautiful ceiling by Luca Giordano. (☎902 10 70 77. Library open M-F 9am-2:30pm. Ceiling can be viewed by tour only, Sa-Su at 11am and 12:30pm. Register in advance with the Prado’s Education Department, located inside the main building’s Jerónimos entrance.)

Real Jardín Botánico. Located just outside the Parque del Buen Retiro, this garden dates from the 18th-century reign of Carlos III and showcases over 30,000 species of plants. The greenery ranges from traditional roses to delicate Japanese bonsai to medicinal herbs from the farthest reaches of the Americas. Pavilions within the garden house tropical, subtropical, and desert plants, along with rotating art exhibits. Horticulture courses are periodically offered; call for details. A perfect escape for both those with horticultural interests and those who just like gorgeous gardens. (Pl. de Murillo, 2, next to the Prado’s southern facade. ☎914 20 30 17; www.rjb.csic.es. Open daily May-Aug. 10am-9pm; Sept. and Apr. 10am-8pm; Oct. and Mar. 10am-7pm; Nov.-Feb. 10am-6pm. €2, students €1, under 10 and over 65 free.)