Madrid Bullfights

Whether you see it as animal torture or as national sport, the spectacle of la corrida, or bullfighting, is a cherished Spanish tradition. Although it has its origins in earlier Roman and Moorish practices, today it's considered Spain's sport, and some of the top toreros, or bullfighters, are true celebrities in Spain. The bullfight has three stages. First, the picadores, lancers on horseback, pierce the bull's neck muscles. Then, assistants thrust decorated darts called banderillas into the bull's back to slightly injure and tire it. Finally, the matador kills his large opposition with a sword in between the bull's shoulder blades, instantly causing its demise. Animal rights activists call the activities savage, cruel, and violent, but aficionados see it as an art and a sport requiring quick thinking and skill. The best place to see bullfighting in Madrid is at the country's biggest arena, Plaza de las Ventas, where you can buy tickets in sol or sombra (sun or shade) sections. Get your tickets at the arena the Friday and Saturday leading up to the bullfight. (C. Alcalá 237☎913 56 22 00 www.las-ventas.com > Ventas h Ticket office open 10am-2pm and 5-8pm.) You'll pay more to sit out of the sun, but either way you'll have a good view of the feverish crowds who cheer on the matador and wave white handkerchiefs called pañuelos after a particularly good fight. Rent a seat cushion at the stadium or bring your own, as the stone seats tend to be uncomfortable. Bullfights are held on Sundays and holidays throughout most of the year. During the Fiesta de San Isidro in May, fights are held almost every day, and the top bullfighters come face to face with the fiercest bulls.