Costa Rica In Defense Of Culture

Though popular opinion might suggest that Costa Rica has neither the storied past nor the contemporary culture of other Central American countries, those visitors in search of national personality and artistic vitality will find much to enchant them here. While many travelers skip out on the less-than-charming capital, San José, as quickly as possible, museums like the Museo de Jade and the Museo Nacional, whose exhibits are housed in an old fortress studded with bullet holes from the 1948 revolution, make a few extra days in the big city worth it. Don’t miss splendid murals, elaborate ceiling frescoes, and world-class shows at the Teatro Nacional. The nearby suburb Escazú offers fine dining and classy B&Bs, while San Pedro features a buzzing student neighborhood packed with restaurants, bars, and clubs. Venture south during early August to witness the impressive religious pilgrimage that thousands of ticos make to Cartago and its Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, or visit nearby Turrialba to raft its wild rivers and explore Costa Rica’s most important archaeological site at Monumento Nacional Guayabo, where intricate petroglyphs testify to the people who lived on the land that Columbus “discovered.” Travelers interested in contemporary indigenous culture can stay with a family of artisans at the Reserva Indígena Boruca, while those intrigued by expat cultural incongruity should check out nearby San Vito, whose delicious restaurants and quaint shady streets were constructed by Italian immigrants after WWII. The Atlantic coast offers reggae vibes and Caribbean flair—explore Puerto Viejo de Talamanca’s sprawling arts and crafts market while you sample Costa Rican staples like gallo pinto (rice and beans) doused in coconut milk and creole spices. For a taste of how the sabaneros (cowboys) party, check out the massive rodeo that fills the streets of Liberia with dancing and signature Costa Rican style bullfighting every July during the “Expo-Feria Ganadera-Liberia.”