Ecuador Climb Every Mountain

There’s no better way to start a trip in Ecuador than with a week-long stay in Quito (7 days). All its modern amenities make for an easy way to ease into Ecuadorian life. Don’t worry about the toothpaste left at home or the lack of hot water commonplace in many other regions of Ecuador—Quito has all that. But it also has some of the most beautiful churches and historic colonial architecture in all of South America. You’ll need at least a full week to see the magnificent La Basílica, daytrip to Mitad del Mundo, wander through Old Quito, and visit innumerable other sights. Plus, a slow-paced week at 2800m will help acclimate lungs to the mountain air. Travel next to Otavalo (2 days) where everything’s sold at the Saturday market. From here take a jaunt up to Ibarra (6 days) for its peaceful parks. Use it as a base from which to visit San Antonio and pick up exquisitely carved, wooden chests and statues. Spend another of the six days visiting Valle del Choza, the next at La Esperanza, a third conquering Volcán Imbabura, and a final day in Ilumán to rest up from the hike. Then travel south, making a few stops along the way back to Quito. First travel a bit to the west to Cotacachi (1 day). If you’re up for it, do a little hiking on nearby Volcán Cotacachi. Next travel to the town of Cayambe (2 days), where you’ll actually be on the equator—in a less hokey environment than Mitad del Mundo—and in close proximity to Volcán Cayambe. Then travel straight down to Machachi and Aloasí (4 days) for a first taste of Andes tranquilo and a good base to hike Volcanoes Rumiñahui and Cotopaxi. (Between hikes, you could even head back to Quito.) Now take a short drive down the Panamerican Hwy. to Latacunga (2 days). From here, set up a base from which to daytrip or begin to town-hop around the Latacunga Loop. Spending time in the north is best. First, hop on over to Chugchilán (3 days), where mountain serenity overtakes villagers and visitors alike. From Isinliví (2 days), the next town over, set out to peak one or both of the Ilinizas, then head on over to Saquislí (2 days) for a market that means business. From here, jump on a bus to Ambato (1 day) to see an homage to Juan Montalvo, a literary hero of Ecuador, or, if you come in February, stay for the largest carnival thrown in the whole country. Spend a day enjoying the artesanía at Salasaca and then Pelileo before moving on to Baños (7 days), the city for outdoor activity and indoor pampering. Hike, bike, and bathe around town, but beware the temperamental Volcán Tungurahua; it’s likely to erupt at any moment. Then spend a day mesmerized by the waterfalls at Rio Verde, a city in limbo—not quite moutains, not quite jungle. Next stop: Riobamba (2 days). Spend a day to check out the city and another to peak Volcán Chimborazo before heading into Parque Nacional Sangay (3 days) for mountain-climbing, swamp-trekking, and thermal-bath-seeking. Keep your eyes peeled for the Andean tapir, an elusive animal found only here. Next on the list is without a doubt Cuenca (4 days) for the last big city of the Ecuadorian Andes. From here, daytrip to the ruins of Ingapirca up north and then to nearby Baños (1 day), not to be confused with the larger Baños to the north. Find good fishing and hiking at Parque Nacional Cajas (2 days) just slightly to the west. Then save time for the towns of Gualaceo (1 day), Chordeleg (1 day), and San Juan (1 day) before journeying farther south to Saraguro (1 day). Next visit Loja (3 days), the largest of the southern cities, to set up base for some daytripping. First stop needs to be Vilcabamba (3 days), a town with beautiful character that is also a great place from which to visit Parque Nacional Podocarpus, the southern Highlands’ gorgeous protected forest. Pause in Catamayo (1 day) before getting even better rest in Catacocha (2 days). Now, go catch a homebound plane in Guayaquil.