Most travelers bypass breathtaking Parque Nacional Sierra de San Pedro Mártir, making it one of the least visited of Mexico’s national parks. The somber peaks of the Sierra de San Pedro Mártir are visible from San Felipe and San Quintín. Those few intrepid souls who venture up here to the area around the Vallecitos plateau discover a world apart from the surrounding desert, in which comparatively high levels of precipitation sustain verdant forests of pine and juniper. Puma and eagles make their home alongside a hearty population of deer, and ice-cold streams support an endemic population of Nelson rainbow trout.
At 10,154 feet, the jagged double peak of Picacho del Diablo (also known as the Cerro de la Encantada or La Providencia) is the Baja peninsula’s highest point and also its greatest challenge to mountaineers—the hike should only be attempted by experienced climbers or those with a reliable guide. Allow 2-3 days to hike to the base from the main road, climb to the summit, and return to the base. Everyone attempting the climb must register at the ranger station. Hikers not brave, skilled, or deluded enough to attempt Picacho del Diablo can take in the view at Mirador el Altar, a breathtaking lookout 2880m above sea level. On a clear day, it’s sometimes possible to see as far as the Pacific coast to the west and the Sea of Cortés to the east. The trail (2hr.) to Mirador el Altar is a steep path strewn with loose rocks; look for signs from the main road just east of Vallecitos.
In 1967, the Mexican government took advantage of the park’s secluded location, choosing it as the site for the Observatorio Nacional. The road to the observatory is clearly marked from Vallecitos; park at the gate and walk along the dirt road to the right. Register at the observatory’s office, the large building on the left. The most sizable of the observatory’s three gigantic telescopes boasts a lens diameter of 2.12m. The smaller buildings up ahead are the astronomers’ private rooms. Friendly scientists are often willing to lead free daytime tours, which can be arranged in advance by calling the observatory (☎646 176 4580).
The road leading to the park branches off Mex. 1, 51km north of San Quintín at San Telmo de Abajo, a small village between Camalu and Colonet, and runs east of the highway for 100km. The ride to the entrance (2hr.) starts on a paved road and continues on a fairly well-marked dirt road (closed during heavy rainfall). This access road becomes the main road inside the park, passing through Vallecitos and ending at the closed observatory gates. 4WD vehicles are recommended. Camping costs 10 pesos per day. If no one is at the ranger station, go ahead and set up camp, and someone will come by to collect your money. Campfires are strictly limited to certain areas. Buy a map of the park before you start your trip, as the maps distributed at the entrance are low-quality. Direct inquiries to the park’s main office at km 22.5 on Mex. 2, on the outskirts of Mexicali, in Ejido Sinaloa. (☎665 54 4404 or 665 554 5470; spmartir@conanp.gob.mx.)
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